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Go Back   Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum > 2nd Gen. Dodge Cummins 94-98 12V Forums > 94-98 Powertrain
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94-98 Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect...NO ADVERTISING

 


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Old 11-04-2009, 10:08 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Truck still seems like its not charging up...

I just replaced batteries and alternator...both batteries tested bad, and the alternator had bad coils...not surprising with 6 year old batteries and the original alternator at 178k miles. But what could be causing the truck to not charge. When I first start up the truck runs for about 45 seconds then ill watch the voltometer jump to 14 then it falls back off and seems to fluctuate between 12 the whole time im driving. And at each start up its just sluggish. Any suggestions?


I should probably make another thread but can anyone inform a newbie on how to adjust my wastegate on this truck or can it be done?
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Old 11-05-2009, 06:42 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Does your tach work? The PCM registers whether to charge or not from the tach.
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Old 11-05-2009, 08:10 PM   #3 (permalink)
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yea, ive continually adjusted my idle but still sometimes in colder starts it doesnt want to sit at the 800 rpms i set the idle at while its running....thats another continuing problem. The truck really wont start without me hitting the throttle and then drops below about 700 then finally bounces up to 800 after a few minutes. Do you know what reading engages the alternator to start cycling?
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Old 11-05-2009, 08:25 PM   #4 (permalink)
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IIRC anything over 4 or 500rpm from the ESS will 'tell' the PCM that the engine is running.

It is normal to see the voltmeter fluctuate after starting, its just the grid heaters cycling. they draw 195amps which is obviously more than the alternator output, thus the voltage drop.
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Old 11-05-2009, 08:46 PM   #5 (permalink)
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yea i understand that, i just dont get why the batteries are still not putting down any kind of cranking power at start up...they are brand new and the biggest you can put in those pans without modding them.
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Old 11-05-2009, 08:53 PM   #6 (permalink)
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well, that would be a whole different situation if your having trouble starting...

If its slow cranking it could be a bad connection on the battery cables or the starter solenoid contacts.

Also, just because its a big battery means nothing. what are the specs on it? I have a pair of 1000cca batteries in my truck that are smaller than the 600cca batteries that i took out of it!
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Old 11-05-2009, 11:16 PM   #7 (permalink)
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well sorry the biggest batteries in cca that would fit these trays without going commercial or modifying the trays. ive checked all the connections and all the grounds on the truck, but ive heard of some kind of sensor on these trucks that sometimes gives trouble with the battery system...but i have no idea what it is so i cant check it.
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Old 11-06-2009, 02:02 AM   #8 (permalink)
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their are temp sensors under the battery tray(s) that tell the PCM if the batteries are getting hot (overcharging)
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Old 11-09-2009, 09:54 AM   #9 (permalink)
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bump anyone else have any ideas?
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Old 11-09-2009, 12:23 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Might need to have the starter overhauled. If you drive the truck for a bit, then kill it, does it still have trouble starting? You might have gotten a faulty alternator.

As for the wastegate, just unplug the line that comes out of the bottom of the unit, slap a bolt in the line, hose clamp it and you're good to go.
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Old 11-09-2009, 12:31 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MX26 View Post
Might need to have the starter overhauled. If you drive the truck for a bit, then kill it, does it still have trouble starting? You might have gotten a faulty alternator.

As for the wastegate, just unplug the line that comes out of the bottom of the unit, slap a bolt in the line, hose clamp it and you're good to go.
shouldnt he install a boost gauge before he does that? or do 12 valves no make enough boost to need them stock?
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Old 11-09-2009, 12:49 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
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shouldnt he install a boost gauge before he does that? or do 12 valves no make enough boost to need them stock?
Well if we're being technical, he should've installed a boost & EGT gauge before getting freaky on that fuel plate. But, either way, there are hundreds of 12V's running up and down the road with the WG plugged without failure. My 94's been done for about 10K. I've seen 12V's with the "boost elbow" peg 42PSI on the gauge, so it's not like there's a huge difference between the two options.
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