head removal

mopar472 · 11-04-2009, 03:21 PM

How do I remove the rear pushrods?

Do I have to take the alternator off? Near that front hook on the head, what do I do around that. Loosen the belt and then remove alternator? Or is that not connected to the head? Thanks.

Dual K20s · 11-04-2009, 03:57 PM

Under the cowl there are two rubber plugs that you remove to allow the pushrods to go up through so you can remove them. The rear hole is up under the dash so you have to put the end of the pushrods up through the hole then they can be angled and will drop back down.

Just take off the alternator bracket and leave the alternator mounted at the bottom. You'll probably have to electronically disconnect it though.

__________________
98 Dodge 2500 Motor: 12 valve, original 913 pump with the basics, some DDP parts, FASS, and more stuff then they will let me put here
Drivetrain: 5-speed 4x4 w/ SB OFE clutch (Love it!)

mopar472 · 11-04-2009, 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dual K20s

Under the cowl there are two rubber plugs that you remove to allow the pushrods to go up through so you can remove them. The rear hole is up under the dash so you have to put the end of the pushrods up through the hole then they can be angled and will drop back down.

Just take off the alternator bracket and leave the alternator mounted at the bottom. You'll probably have to electronically disconnect it though.

So the alternator is mounted at another place too? I don't need to loosen the belt and retension it when everything is back together? Thanks.

Busted Knuckles · 11-04-2009, 05:44 PM

No need to loosen the belt, remove the bolt holding the bracket to the thermo housing then loosen the bolt on the alternator and you can swing the bracket out of the way

__________________
96' 3500 Reg Cab 4x4 Leveled on 35"s HX35/40 Hybrid, Custom intake box w/ AFE BHAF, O-Ringed Head, Ported exhaust, 4" turbo back, 5x12's, #0 Plate, Gutted AFC

HEEPJEEP · 11-04-2009, 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dual K20s

Under the cowl there are two rubber plugs that you remove to allow the pushrods to go up through so you can remove them. The rear hole is up under the dash so you have to put the end of the pushrods up through the hole then they can be angled and will drop back down.

Just take off the alternator bracket and leave the alternator mounted at the bottom. You'll probably have to electronically disconnect it though.

No . Damn. I hope the gasser cab I just swapped on has them... I am assuming it will.

__________________
'97 4x4, 12 v, SC/LB work truck/DD probably a bad P7100 pump... Goerend VB and triple disc, Suncoast rebuild, Billet in/out, billet flex plate, 62/65/13ss +S475, Weston's 5x.014's

mopar472 · 11-04-2009, 11:52 PM

Alright thanks. I got the valve train out today. Hopin to get the injectors out and take the head off tomorrow.

mopar472 · 11-05-2009, 11:48 PM

Got everything out good and took it to the machine shop. They're gonna check the surface and let me know if it's needs to be resurfaced or not. I guess once you get past the exhaust system, the rest is a breeze. But #### those exhaust bolts were a pain.

It's all good now though, hopin to get the truck on the road sometime next week.

Busted Knuckles · 11-06-2009, 12:01 AM

I always put a lil Anti-seize on the manifold bolts before i put em back in...

__________________
96' 3500 Reg Cab 4x4 Leveled on 35"s HX35/40 Hybrid, Custom intake box w/ AFE BHAF, O-Ringed Head, Ported exhaust, 4" turbo back, 5x12's, #0 Plate, Gutted AFC

mopar472 · 11-06-2009, 12:20 AM

I'm definitely plannin on it.

RPegram · 11-06-2009, 06:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Busted Knuckles

I always put a lil Anti-seize on the manifold bolts before i put em back in...

Agree 100%. Put anti-seize (I've had best luck with Permatex brand) on every nut, bolt and stud except for head bolts. You'll be glad you did if ever needs removing again.

__________________
'96 Dodge 3500,KDP killed, boost-pyro-trans temp, not stock anymore
'01 Dodge 2500 4X4, EC, LB, 6 speed, FP-pyro-boost,
'97 Chevrolet Suburban, K1500, 4.10 gears

11-04-2009, 03:21 PM	#1 (permalink)
mopar472 Cummins Fan Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 91 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts mopar472's Truck Pics	head removal How do I remove the rear pushrods? Do I have to take the alternator off? Near that front hook on the head, what do I do around that. Loosen the belt and then remove alternator? Or is that not connected to the head? Thanks.

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11-04-2009, 03:57 PM	#2 (permalink)
Dual K20s Tech Specialist Join Date: May 2007 Location: Ferndale CA/San Luis Obispo CA Posts: 1,444 Thanks: 0 Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts Dual K20s's Truck Pics	Under the cowl there are two rubber plugs that you remove to allow the pushrods to go up through so you can remove them. The rear hole is up under the dash so you have to put the end of the pushrods up through the hole then they can be angled and will drop back down. Just take off the alternator bracket and leave the alternator mounted at the bottom. You'll probably have to electronically disconnect it though. __________________ 98 Dodge 2500 Motor: 12 valve, original 913 pump with the basics, some DDP parts, FASS, and more stuff then they will let me put here Drivetrain: 5-speed 4x4 w/ SB OFE clutch (Love it!)

11-04-2009, 05:44 PM	#4 (permalink)
Busted Knuckles Cummins Enthusiast Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Tyler, TX Posts: 204 Thanks: 3 Thanked 8 Times in 8 Posts Busted Knuckles's Truck Pics	No need to loosen the belt, remove the bolt holding the bracket to the thermo housing then loosen the bolt on the alternator and you can swing the bracket out of the way __________________ 96' 3500 Reg Cab 4x4 Leveled on 35"s HX35/40 Hybrid, Custom intake box w/ AFE BHAF, O-Ringed Head, Ported exhaust, 4" turbo back, 5x12's, #0 Plate, Gutted AFC

11-04-2009, 11:52 PM	#6 (permalink)
mopar472 Cummins Fan Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 91 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts mopar472's Truck Pics	Alright thanks. I got the valve train out today. Hopin to get the injectors out and take the head off tomorrow.

11-05-2009, 11:48 PM	#7 (permalink)
mopar472 Cummins Fan Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 91 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts mopar472's Truck Pics	Got everything out good and took it to the machine shop. They're gonna check the surface and let me know if it's needs to be resurfaced or not. I guess once you get past the exhaust system, the rest is a breeze. But #### those exhaust bolts were a pain. It's all good now though, hopin to get the truck on the road sometime next week.

11-06-2009, 12:01 AM	#8 (permalink)
Busted Knuckles Cummins Enthusiast Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Tyler, TX Posts: 204 Thanks: 3 Thanked 8 Times in 8 Posts Busted Knuckles's Truck Pics	I always put a lil Anti-seize on the manifold bolts before i put em back in... __________________ 96' 3500 Reg Cab 4x4 Leveled on 35"s HX35/40 Hybrid, Custom intake box w/ AFE BHAF, O-Ringed Head, Ported exhaust, 4" turbo back, 5x12's, #0 Plate, Gutted AFC

11-06-2009, 12:20 AM	#9 (permalink)
mopar472 Cummins Fan Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 91 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts mopar472's Truck Pics	I'm definitely plannin on it.