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Go Back   Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum > 2nd Gen. Dodge Cummins 94-98 12V Forums > 94-98 Powertrain
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94-98 Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect...NO ADVERTISING

 


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Old 11-03-2009, 09:42 AM   #13 (permalink)
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oh can anyone explain how l mount the hydraulics on the firewall? looking at my brand new assembly it doesnt have a clip, bolt holes or anything like that to secure that master cylinder to the firewall. l should be getting my neutral safety switch today so maybe thats what secure it to the firewall but any help will be appreciated.
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Old 11-03-2009, 02:36 PM   #14 (permalink)
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The clutch master reservoir gets secured to the firewall with two sheet metal screws. Theres a small flat spot on the firewall where it bolts to.

The other piece http://www.cumminsforum.com/gallery/...m/clutch_3.jpg with the rod that goes to the clutch pedal, twist it so it locks into place in the firewall/pedal assembly.

edit: I can get a pic of them if you need it.
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Last edited by Box5 : 11-03-2009 at 02:40 PM.
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Old 11-03-2009, 05:02 PM   #15 (permalink)
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thanks box5 thats what l thought had to be done by looking at everything and l have a nice set of self tapping screws and from what l saw my truck has two dimples on the firewall where the resevore is secured so again l beleive this is going to be quite easy it seems as if everything literally falls into place.
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Old 11-03-2009, 05:39 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Old 11-03-2009, 06:30 PM   #17 (permalink)
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ok l have been looking over wiring schematics for the neutral safety switch in my chiltons manual and l am pretty sure l have figured it out. l am going to cut the connector off and solder the outer two wires to a manual trans reverse pigtail and can l just solder a ring onto the center wire and just run a self tapping screw into the frame to ground that wire out so its getting a neutral signal at all times? l know my cruise wont work but it doesnt work anyways.
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Old 11-03-2009, 06:38 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 20valve View Post
Nice Justin. Here's some pics to help from last week when I started my swap.

The pedals. There is a giant pin that the pedals hang, or swing from. As was stated in numerous posts, you DO NOT need to remove the entire magnesium part from the dash/firewall. This second pic shows the "E" clip on the driver's side of the pedal/steering column housing. The camera was wiggled up in there for a close-up (pic #2).

The clip is pretty tough to get at, but it is do-able. To help me out, I went to the passenger side of the pin and removed that side first, allowing me to slide the pin to the driver's side about an inch (pic #3).

It's enough to get a flathead screwdriver in there and pop the clip off. Then, work the pin towards the passenger side and pull it out. There's plenty of room on that side. When you get everything out, it should look something like pic #1.

The white things with a diagonal cut in them are the bushings. There's 4 of them in the auto pedal setup, 6 in the manual. I cleaned mine free of the old grease, and put fresh stuff on there. It doesn't take much, either.

I will say putting the manual pedal assembly in is a pain in the butt. There is one wavy washer that goes inbetween the brake and clutch pedal. The easiest way for me to install it was to slip two pieces of thin plastic on both sides of the washer, and try to wiggle both pedals and the plastic up to the mounting location. Then, work the pin in from the passenger side, and slip one piece of plastic out at a time. It takes a little bit of time/patience, but it's easier than trying to just hold the washer in there by hand (I fought mine for about 1/2 an hour before it went). Once you get the pedals, bushings and the washer in, put the clips back on and re-attach the hydros/brake lever. Hopefully this helps somewhat!!!

hey Jason have you finished your swap yet?
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Old 11-03-2009, 06:47 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Not yet. The rear driveshaft JUST got done. I had a shop lengthen it, put new u-joints on it and replace the carrier bearing. I will probably swing by tomorrow and pick it up. The clutch/flywheel should be here tomorrow as well. Unfortunately, I won't have a free weekend for 3 weeks to work on it anymore. Sucks too, as I was supposed to go and pick up my bumper in 2 weeks. Good news is, everything else is out. The only thing left to do is cut a hole in the floor, but I need to find a picture or get some measurements of the hole the factory puts there.
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Old 11-03-2009, 06:54 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Old 11-03-2009, 08:48 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 20valve View Post
Not yet. The rear driveshaft JUST got done. I had a shop lengthen it, put new u-joints on it and replace the carrier bearing. I will probably swing by tomorrow and pick it up. The clutch/flywheel should be here tomorrow as well. Unfortunately, I won't have a free weekend for 3 weeks to work on it anymore. Sucks too, as I was supposed to go and pick up my bumper in 2 weeks. Good news is, everything else is out. The only thing left to do is cut a hole in the floor, but I need to find a picture or get some measurements of the hole the factory puts there.

how much did you have added? l have heard about 5 1/8" it should be the same no matter what configuration you have quad cab shortbed/longbed or a regular cab long bed.
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Old 11-04-2009, 07:31 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Well guys heres the first round of pics, this is mainly showing what I am starting with. I had a little mix up with my input shaft because the company I bought mine off of got the wrong one sent to them so they bought one off of there competitors and had it sent to me and it got here without the plug or bearing but they are working there butts off to get the problem solved and I am very happy with the company.

Here is the trans, I couldnt find a male plug for the reverse lights so I cut the plastic off of the plug and soldered wires to it and I am going to steal a plug from something else and solder that on.


Here is the 29 spline input for my 241DHD transfer case


This is the Wagner master/slave assembly I bought form Rockauto P/N CM140990


Southbend Clutch


Shift console from a 98+ and my pedal assembly


Here is the truck its going into
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Old 11-04-2009, 10:21 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Nice truck!
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Old 11-04-2009, 11:06 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Cool Justin! That trans looks a whole lot better than mine! As for my driveshaft, it had to be lengthened a little over 17" on the front shaft. But my transmission is a 2wd. Yours shouldn't have to be anywhere near that long, as this was a qc/lb. I was trying to find a pic and/or measurements for the hole in the floor where the shifter comes through, but no luck. BD has a few pics on their short shifter install instructions that I'm going to try and use.
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