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First off I want to praise this forrum, its a jackpot of good information and informative posters
now for this issue at hand
I recently aquired a 94 ram 2500 4x4 for practically free that had electical issues,
turned out that as in all vehicles even non deisel, purple wires tase like grape and red ones cherry to mice so I got all the electrical fixed
I have a decent oil leak on the driver side of the motor , it would appear to be comping from a gasket from a componet i cannot identify easily on ALLDATA, it has a cast alum housing and what looks to be a bolt head cast into the bottom of the housing, The componet is situated above and forward of the starter unit roughly midway up on the block
the leak would be classed as a running leak meaning it only really leaks during operation or for a while after the engine is shut down
also a previous owner in their divine wisdom used RTV to create a oil pan gasket, I will be fixing this also wich leads me to the next question
would it be advised to just remove the entire engine and do this repair. the motor has 220k so rod bearings would be a easy replacment with it on a stand while i had the pan off. Im going to replace the rear main as well , it is seaping a little and I may as well get it done all at once
so there ya have it any suggestions guys? as to what componet is leaking and if you would remove the entire engine to do these repairs
OK update.. the componet is the fuel heater assembly and I found out from the prior owner that it was replaced about 2 years back, apparently the gasket was incorrectly installed so i will get this fixed
Last edited by LuVmyram94; 10-24-2009 at 02:24 PM.
Reason: new information
As for the oil pan gasket, I've never been a fan of using RTV unless it is on something that is really really really easy to get too so I can reseal it again if it leaks...
RTV works good in a sense that the user has the patients to let the RTV set up. I have seen many people use RTV on their timing case gasket, or rear axle, to seal the covers and don't let the RTV "set up". They refill the case with oil and the oil will eat the RTV right out and before you know it you will be right back to a leaky set up again...
. Why take a chance breaking your wrists to get a million 10 mm bolts out under the truck and then having it leak? Buy the gasket, its like 30 bucks, I believe on the 2nd generation 12 valves you DO NOT need to pull the motor to get to the oil pan gasket. The newer 2nd generation 24 valves require a lot more work.
I do not use rtv on anything that has a oil pump and passages.....stuff likes to get in the passages and clog em up. I have done many major repairs/rebuilds because of people using it incorrectly. At work i see a tube of it and i toss it. Don't care who bought it. kinda a joke around the shop but i'm finding it less and less. Buy the gasket and a can of gasket cement. Will last longer and less chance of a leak when you are done.
only cast in nut i can think of is on bottom of the fuel strainer. But that would be fuel leaking.if it is go get a fuel strainer kit and replace the strainer and the orings, alot of guys off the heater part of it because of leaks where the wires go thru . Makes no difference in how the tuck runs. it might if you are in constant sub freezing temps but i doubt even then it is not much of a heater.
Its def not fuel, going to get it up on the lift tomorow, drop the starter and get a real good loook at whats going on and were its coming from
like i said before, I think i will just pull the entire motor and have it sitting in front of me so I can see up close and personal whats going on, might powdercoat a few things while i have it out and ive been kicking around replacing the injectors and pump just for sheets and giggles
I think that if you have the tools, time, energy and the interest i would pull it...
then you can get to the back of the engine and replace the coolant sensor and the hoses
you can roll in rods and mains and even new studs in the heads and well as getting all of the silly little things done like resealing the engine the KDP, rear main seal . check the flex plate for cracking oil pan seal etc.
gasket match the ports and 220K is about mid life in the B model, but new rods and mains are cheap and it sounds like the engine has not had the best of care so maybe it is due
compression test the entire thing first and then you know if you have to go deeper.
i would love to have the time and energy to do such a thing it would be fun!
i just drive them now and hope they stay together.
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