95 2500 Cummins auto - seems luggish and low on power - Page 3

Rogan · 10-21-2009, 08:03 PM

cool. you guys are great! I'm on several car forums, and I have to say that this is, BY FAR, one of the best!

Anyhoo, I adjusted the star gear about 8-10 clicks this evening, and took my son to get his hair cut. The throttle response off-idle is quite a bit better. Still zero smoke, though.. This weekend, I'll adjust the AFC and slide it toward the radiator to full stop. Monday, I'll be ordering the 3K spring kit.

__________________
'96 RAM2500 CTD SCLB 4x4 Auto, 3.5:1 D70 LSD - BHAF, KDP fix, catless 4" with turn-down after the cab, 3K GSK, #10 torque plate, boost/pyro gauges, 5th wheel setup, Pioneer cd player, crank-em-up windows - otherwise, it's a boner-stocker

rallye12ctd · 10-22-2009, 02:02 AM

I usually get 21-23. I make your grandpa look like mario andretti, that's how. I accelerate sloooow, then set the cruise at the speed limit. I bought this truck for its efficiency.

__________________
98 12 valve 5 speed. Longbox. BHAF. Silencer ring gone. Stock otherwise.

wcorbett · 10-22-2009, 02:31 AM

Another cheap mod that will drasticly impove performance is a fuel plate. I cant believe it hasnt been mentioned yet. Go to ebay and search for cummins fuel plate. get a #10 plate, Its only 35 bucks and is a great mod. It comes with written instructions as well as a brass fitting to increase boost and help with quicker spooling of the turbo. with these mods you will be more than happy! especially towing. I can shift my truck at about 1800 rpms every shift and still get a 0-60 time of about 15 seconds. I average about 20 MPG as well.

wcorbett · 10-22-2009, 02:37 AM

Oh, another little addition I did when I installed my fuel plate was to grind down the area forward of the bolt holes on the fuel plate back a little bit. This was due to the fact that "full forward" with the fuel plate kept the afc housing from sitting on the mounting surface. I dont quite know how much more fuel I got but it was a neat little trick.

Badger · 10-22-2009, 02:42 AM

Now that your thinking about increasing fuel imo you should also start thinking about getting gauges (boost, pyro, trans) and more air flowing in. It'll be time to start watching EGT's particularly towing.

__________________
95 CTD 2500 STD Cab 4X4, KDP Tabbed, Boost/Pyro, AFE Stage II, 4" MBRP Exhaust, ATS Exhaust Manifold, BD T/C and Trans w/ Torq Loc, DDP STAGE II INJECTORS, #10 PLATE, CFM+ Intake, HID Head lights, ROL BAK Cover, 2" leveling Kit

Rogan · 10-22-2009, 09:48 AM

I guess this is where I should state my total intensions with the truck.

It's primary role in life, with me, is to work, pulling a trailer roughly 7-9000lb gross.

When not towing, it'll be my DD, as I currently drive a '92 Eagle Talon TSi AWD Turbo as my DD. But, I don't really have room for my wife's Saab, my Talon, the truck, and a 26foot trailer. So, selling the Talon will pay for more than 1/2 the truck back, and free up some driveway space. The talon, as a mildly driven DD gets in the mid 20s, in town, and high 20s on the highway. If I can get/keep the truck somewhere in the 20s (not towing) then I'll be happy.

At the same time, I want to 'pep' it up a little bit, but not beyond the point of bombing the transmission. I just went through a transmission scenario with my (recently sold) Grand Cherokee Limited V8 and it was quite costly.

I also want to fix some of the idiosyncrasies that it currently has, in which you all have been helping me troubleshoot, already, and I thank you for that!

I'm not looking for a 13sec drag truck, or a 6000lb class pullin' truck, either.

Am I babbling? If so, sorry. Minimal sleep last night

__________________
'96 RAM2500 CTD SCLB 4x4 Auto, 3.5:1 D70 LSD - BHAF, KDP fix, catless 4" with turn-down after the cab, 3K GSK, #10 torque plate, boost/pyro gauges, 5th wheel setup, Pioneer cd player, crank-em-up windows - otherwise, it's a boner-stocker

Rogan · 10-22-2009, 07:09 PM

So this evening, I turned the star screw thing in the AFC another 12 clicks (top of cog toward motor), and took a test drive. Throttle response is still pretty good, and still no smoke on a throttled-up takeoff.. Should it still be turned more?

As well, I noticed that the truck's 'brick wall' is hit around 2000-2100rpm, where it seems to stop accelerating. Is this where the sliding of the AFC toward the pump-side, and adding the 3K spring kit will come into play?

Thanks again, guys!

__________________
'96 RAM2500 CTD SCLB 4x4 Auto, 3.5:1 D70 LSD - BHAF, KDP fix, catless 4" with turn-down after the cab, 3K GSK, #10 torque plate, boost/pyro gauges, 5th wheel setup, Pioneer cd player, crank-em-up windows - otherwise, it's a boner-stocker

Rogan · 10-22-2009, 07:11 PM

Here's the beast, btw..

__________________
'96 RAM2500 CTD SCLB 4x4 Auto, 3.5:1 D70 LSD - BHAF, KDP fix, catless 4" with turn-down after the cab, 3K GSK, #10 torque plate, boost/pyro gauges, 5th wheel setup, Pioneer cd player, crank-em-up windows - otherwise, it's a boner-stocker

Last edited by Rogan : 10-22-2009 at 07:14 PM.

RPegram · 10-22-2009, 08:07 PM

Nice looking truck. Go ahead and slide the AFC forward and then check for smoke. If you see none, you can always hit the starwheel a little more. When you slide the AFC forward you will really notice a little more kick in your step.

You'll take care of that brick wall with the 3K GSK. It will make towing that trailer a whole new experience.

Once you get your springs in, you may want to adjust the kick down cable going to the trans. It is the cable that is pulled out when you give it the throttle. If you feel around cable housing where it goes through the bracket you will find a button you can push and pull the cable out some. A little adjustment goes a long way. It will delay your shifts which will help with towing and will also raise pressure inside trans a little which will help clutches and torque converter. More pressure equals less slip which equals longer life.

__________________
'96 Dodge 3500,KDP killed, boost-pyro-trans temp, not stock anymore
'01 Dodge 2500 4X4, EC, LB, 6 speed, FP-pyro-boost,
'97 Chevrolet Suburban, K1500, 4.10 gears

Rogan · 10-22-2009, 08:29 PM

cool deal, thanks, I'll do that.

The trans shifts like a rock now

__________________
'96 RAM2500 CTD SCLB 4x4 Auto, 3.5:1 D70 LSD - BHAF, KDP fix, catless 4" with turn-down after the cab, 3K GSK, #10 torque plate, boost/pyro gauges, 5th wheel setup, Pioneer cd player, crank-em-up windows - otherwise, it's a boner-stocker

Rogan · 10-25-2009, 03:35 PM

So I installed boost gauge (0-60psi) and EGT gauge today. I'm not a fan of the a-pillar pods, so I installed them where the cupholder was. It was tricky, but I got them in there.

That's when I noticed I'm getting about 16-18psi boost full throttle. I checked for boost leaks, and found none (using my billet boost leak detector device.)

Also tried to slide the AFC forward, but those top two bolts (the shear bolt and the flat-head) are total asses, and will not come loose for the life of me.. The two 8mm ones came right out. Is there a 'trick'? I read where some take a flat chisel, and knock a groove in the heads, and they twist right out.. not so, with my top-rear one. the top front on is near impossible to access, even with the intake top removed, as the fuel injector lines are still right in the way. Any now advice/tricks are greatly appreciated!

__________________
'96 RAM2500 CTD SCLB 4x4 Auto, 3.5:1 D70 LSD - BHAF, KDP fix, catless 4" with turn-down after the cab, 3K GSK, #10 torque plate, boost/pyro gauges, 5th wheel setup, Pioneer cd player, crank-em-up windows - otherwise, it's a boner-stocker

flubyux2 · 10-25-2009, 04:57 PM

Get 8mm nuts an tack weld them onto the breakoffs. I tried the chisel trick and got nowhere. The nut will give you somehtin to turn and the heat of the weld will loosen the screw and melt the paint that seals it to the pump. Once I got the screws out, I welded the nuts on and just turned them into bolts.

Btw, is the dsm a 6/4 or is it a 7 bolt? Mods? (I used to be into them pretty big back in the day, with Dave buschur, shep and the other guys who came up like mike huml, etc)

also, nice truck. I love the blue. Also, do your fuel filter. I did mine and it was black. My mpg went from 18 hand calculated to 23mpg.

__________________
1997 reg cab, super clean, low miles, done right. F/S or F/T. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/2n...low-miles.html

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10-21-2009, 08:03 PM	#25 (permalink)
Rogan Cummins Fan Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: winchester, va Posts: 88 Thanks: 6 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Rogan's Truck Pics	cool. you guys are great! I'm on several car forums, and I have to say that this is, BY FAR, one of the best! Anyhoo, I adjusted the star gear about 8-10 clicks this evening, and took my son to get his hair cut. The throttle response off-idle is quite a bit better. Still zero smoke, though.. This weekend, I'll adjust the AFC and slide it toward the radiator to full stop. Monday, I'll be ordering the 3K spring kit. __________________ '96 RAM2500 CTD SCLB 4x4 Auto, 3.5:1 D70 LSD - BHAF, KDP fix, catless 4" with turn-down after the cab, 3K GSK, #10 torque plate, boost/pyro gauges, 5th wheel setup, Pioneer cd player, crank-em-up windows - otherwise, it's a boner-stocker

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10-22-2009, 02:02 AM	#26 (permalink)
rallye12ctd Cummins Fan Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 49 Thanks: 4 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts rallye12ctd's Truck Pics	I usually get 21-23. I make your grandpa look like mario andretti, that's how. I accelerate sloooow, then set the cruise at the speed limit. I bought this truck for its efficiency. __________________ 98 12 valve 5 speed. Longbox. BHAF. Silencer ring gone. Stock otherwise.

10-22-2009, 02:31 AM	#27 (permalink)
wcorbett Cummins Fan Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 68 Thanks: 1 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts wcorbett's Truck Pics	Another cheap mod that will drasticly impove performance is a fuel plate. I cant believe it hasnt been mentioned yet. Go to ebay and search for cummins fuel plate. get a #10 plate, Its only 35 bucks and is a great mod. It comes with written instructions as well as a brass fitting to increase boost and help with quicker spooling of the turbo. with these mods you will be more than happy! especially towing. I can shift my truck at about 1800 rpms every shift and still get a 0-60 time of about 15 seconds. I average about 20 MPG as well.

10-22-2009, 02:37 AM	#28 (permalink)
wcorbett Cummins Fan Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 68 Thanks: 1 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts wcorbett's Truck Pics	Oh, another little addition I did when I installed my fuel plate was to grind down the area forward of the bolt holes on the fuel plate back a little bit. This was due to the fact that "full forward" with the fuel plate kept the afc housing from sitting on the mounting surface. I dont quite know how much more fuel I got but it was a neat little trick.

10-22-2009, 02:42 AM	#29 (permalink)
Badger Cummins Fan Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 67 Thanks: 12 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post Badger's Truck Pics	Now that your thinking about increasing fuel imo you should also start thinking about getting gauges (boost, pyro, trans) and more air flowing in. It'll be time to start watching EGT's particularly towing. __________________ 95 CTD 2500 STD Cab 4X4, KDP Tabbed, Boost/Pyro, AFE Stage II, 4" MBRP Exhaust, ATS Exhaust Manifold, BD T/C and Trans w/ Torq Loc, DDP STAGE II INJECTORS, #10 PLATE, CFM+ Intake, HID Head lights, ROL BAK Cover, 2" leveling Kit

10-22-2009, 09:48 AM	#30 (permalink)
Rogan Cummins Fan Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: winchester, va Posts: 88 Thanks: 6 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Rogan's Truck Pics	I guess this is where I should state my total intensions with the truck. It's primary role in life, with me, is to work, pulling a trailer roughly 7-9000lb gross. When not towing, it'll be my DD, as I currently drive a '92 Eagle Talon TSi AWD Turbo as my DD. But, I don't really have room for my wife's Saab, my Talon, the truck, and a 26foot trailer. So, selling the Talon will pay for more than 1/2 the truck back, and free up some driveway space. The talon, as a mildly driven DD gets in the mid 20s, in town, and high 20s on the highway. If I can get/keep the truck somewhere in the 20s (not towing) then I'll be happy. At the same time, I want to 'pep' it up a little bit, but not beyond the point of bombing the transmission. I just went through a transmission scenario with my (recently sold) Grand Cherokee Limited V8 and it was quite costly. I also want to fix some of the idiosyncrasies that it currently has, in which you all have been helping me troubleshoot, already, and I thank you for that! I'm not looking for a 13sec drag truck, or a 6000lb class pullin' truck, either. Am I babbling? If so, sorry. Minimal sleep last night __________________ '96 RAM2500 CTD SCLB 4x4 Auto, 3.5:1 D70 LSD - BHAF, KDP fix, catless 4" with turn-down after the cab, 3K GSK, #10 torque plate, boost/pyro gauges, 5th wheel setup, Pioneer cd player, crank-em-up windows - otherwise, it's a boner-stocker

10-22-2009, 07:09 PM	#31 (permalink)
Rogan Cummins Fan Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: winchester, va Posts: 88 Thanks: 6 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Rogan's Truck Pics	So this evening, I turned the star screw thing in the AFC another 12 clicks (top of cog toward motor), and took a test drive. Throttle response is still pretty good, and still no smoke on a throttled-up takeoff.. Should it still be turned more? As well, I noticed that the truck's 'brick wall' is hit around 2000-2100rpm, where it seems to stop accelerating. Is this where the sliding of the AFC toward the pump-side, and adding the 3K spring kit will come into play? Thanks again, guys! __________________ '96 RAM2500 CTD SCLB 4x4 Auto, 3.5:1 D70 LSD - BHAF, KDP fix, catless 4" with turn-down after the cab, 3K GSK, #10 torque plate, boost/pyro gauges, 5th wheel setup, Pioneer cd player, crank-em-up windows - otherwise, it's a boner-stocker

10-22-2009, 07:11 PM	#32 (permalink)
Rogan Cummins Fan Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: winchester, va Posts: 88 Thanks: 6 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Rogan's Truck Pics	Here's the beast, btw.. __________________ '96 RAM2500 CTD SCLB 4x4 Auto, 3.5:1 D70 LSD - BHAF, KDP fix, catless 4" with turn-down after the cab, 3K GSK, #10 torque plate, boost/pyro gauges, 5th wheel setup, Pioneer cd player, crank-em-up windows - otherwise, it's a boner-stocker Last edited by Rogan : 10-22-2009 at 07:14 PM.

10-22-2009, 08:07 PM	#33 (permalink)
RPegram Cummins Nut Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Arapahoe, NC Posts: 340 Thanks: 2 Thanked 30 Times in 29 Posts RPegram's Truck Pics	Nice looking truck. Go ahead and slide the AFC forward and then check for smoke. If you see none, you can always hit the starwheel a little more. When you slide the AFC forward you will really notice a little more kick in your step. You'll take care of that brick wall with the 3K GSK. It will make towing that trailer a whole new experience. Once you get your springs in, you may want to adjust the kick down cable going to the trans. It is the cable that is pulled out when you give it the throttle. If you feel around cable housing where it goes through the bracket you will find a button you can push and pull the cable out some. A little adjustment goes a long way. It will delay your shifts which will help with towing and will also raise pressure inside trans a little which will help clutches and torque converter. More pressure equals less slip which equals longer life. __________________ '96 Dodge 3500,KDP killed, boost-pyro-trans temp, not stock anymore '01 Dodge 2500 4X4, EC, LB, 6 speed, FP-pyro-boost, '97 Chevrolet Suburban, K1500, 4.10 gears

10-22-2009, 08:29 PM	#34 (permalink)
Rogan Cummins Fan Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: winchester, va Posts: 88 Thanks: 6 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Rogan's Truck Pics	cool deal, thanks, I'll do that. The trans shifts like a rock now __________________ '96 RAM2500 CTD SCLB 4x4 Auto, 3.5:1 D70 LSD - BHAF, KDP fix, catless 4" with turn-down after the cab, 3K GSK, #10 torque plate, boost/pyro gauges, 5th wheel setup, Pioneer cd player, crank-em-up windows - otherwise, it's a boner-stocker

10-25-2009, 03:35 PM	#35 (permalink)
Rogan Cummins Fan Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: winchester, va Posts: 88 Thanks: 6 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Rogan's Truck Pics	So I installed boost gauge (0-60psi) and EGT gauge today. I'm not a fan of the a-pillar pods, so I installed them where the cupholder was. It was tricky, but I got them in there. That's when I noticed I'm getting about 16-18psi boost full throttle. I checked for boost leaks, and found none (using my billet boost leak detector device.) Also tried to slide the AFC forward, but those top two bolts (the shear bolt and the flat-head) are total asses, and will not come loose for the life of me.. The two 8mm ones came right out. Is there a 'trick'? I read where some take a flat chisel, and knock a groove in the heads, and they twist right out.. not so, with my top-rear one. the top front on is near impossible to access, even with the intake top removed, as the fuel injector lines are still right in the way. Any now advice/tricks are greatly appreciated! __________________ '96 RAM2500 CTD SCLB 4x4 Auto, 3.5:1 D70 LSD - BHAF, KDP fix, catless 4" with turn-down after the cab, 3K GSK, #10 torque plate, boost/pyro gauges, 5th wheel setup, Pioneer cd player, crank-em-up windows - otherwise, it's a boner-stocker

10-25-2009, 04:57 PM	#36 (permalink)
flubyux2 Diesel Freak Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Spring Hill, FL Posts: 603 Thanks: 6 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts flubyux2's Truck Pics	Get 8mm nuts an tack weld them onto the breakoffs. I tried the chisel trick and got nowhere. The nut will give you somehtin to turn and the heat of the weld will loosen the screw and melt the paint that seals it to the pump. Once I got the screws out, I welded the nuts on and just turned them into bolts. Btw, is the dsm a 6/4 or is it a 7 bolt? Mods? (I used to be into them pretty big back in the day, with Dave buschur, shep and the other guys who came up like mike huml, etc) also, nice truck. I love the blue. Also, do your fuel filter. I did mine and it was black. My mpg went from 18 hand calculated to 23mpg. __________________ 1997 reg cab, super clean, low miles, done right. F/S or F/T. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/2n...low-miles.html