95 2500 Cummins auto - seems luggish and low on power

[illflem]

These trucks are very well detuned from the factory for emissions controls. The changes you are making are what cummins intended for this engine to do

Not only for emissions but also so they could use a cheaper drivetrain.
I you're gentle with the throttle the tranny will hold up but then you aren't using your new power.

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Bill
'95 2500 4wd auto
'95 3500 5 speed heavy hauler
Not stock

[RPegram]

Here's where I purchased mine from. This site and a couple of others come highly recommended here.

3000RPM Governor Spring Kit 94-98 Dodge 5.9L 12 Valve Cummins Diesel 3K GSK Peak Diesel

All references to "forward" mean towards radiator. When you turn the starwheel, you will take a flat screwdriver and turn it towards the engine. When you turn it you will feel some clicks. Turn it about 8 clicks, crank engine and see how much smoke you get when given quick throttle. If little to none, then crank some more. To move the AFC -cover forward you will need to get that break-off screw out. I took a small (old and sharp) wood chisel and tapped it a few times in a counter-clockwise motion and it came right out. Once out you can replace with a new screw or bolt. You will need to remove the air horn bolted to intake, but that's only 5 bolts and a hose clamp. Just loosen the other 3 bolts in AFC cover and tap it gently all the way forward. Install new bolt and tighten others and its done. A good time to do this is when you do the springs because you have to remove some of the bolts and air intake horn anyway to do them.

What you are doing should not harm the trans, unless it is on it's way out anyway. You are only adding fuel on initial throttle response and not under WOT. The spring kit just allows it to keep fueling longer. Unless you start turning it over 3200 rpm, then engine will be fine. Over 3200 and then you need to change valve springs and then you can turn it to your hearts content. The stock valve springs can't pull the valves back up over 3200, so then they "float" and make contact with pistons, keepers come loose and you are now putting a very heavy engine in while sitting in your driveway.

I too would have preferred a stick, but a good deal is hard to walk away from. I tow a travel trailer weighing about 7,000 lbs and can tow it down the interstate at 70-75 with no problem. I normally run 62-63 for fuel economy though.

If you are still having problems with power, you need to do a fuel pressure check. Low fuel pressure will cause problems with power. If you haven't already done so go ahead and change fuel filter and clean prefilter screen. A bad relief valve or dying lift pump can cause lower than normal fuel pressure. If you are not having any problems starting, then air in fuel should not be an issue Here is a link to a very inexpensive, but very good setup for fuel pressure:

To check fuel pressure on a 12 valve

Have fun and let us know how things work out.

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'96 Dodge 3500,KDP killed, boost-pyro-trans temp, not stock anymore
'01 Dodge 2500 4X4, EC, LB, 6 speed, FP-pyro-boost,
'97 Chevrolet Suburban, K1500, 4.10 gears

[rallye12ctd]

Do you think it's safe for me to do this? My original clutch has slipped once on me in 5k miles. 185k on truck. I don't pull.

Also- would this make an EGT gauge necessary?

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98 12 valve 5 speed. Longbox. BHAF. Silencer ring gone. Stock otherwise.

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Last edited by rallye12ctd : 10-21-2009 at 10:38 AM.

[Rogan]

awesome info, thank you. I believe I'll order the 3K setup next week.

When you're towing, what kinda mileage do you 'normally' get, at 63-65mph?

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'96 RAM2500 CTD SCLB 4x4 Auto, 3.5:1 D70 LSD - BHAF, KDP fix, catless 4" with turn-down after the cab, 3K GSK, #10 torque plate, boost/pyro gauges, 5th wheel setup, Pioneer cd player, crank-em-up windows - otherwise, it's a boner-stocker

[rallye12ctd]

What is your axle ratio?

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98 12 valve 5 speed. Longbox. BHAF. Silencer ring gone. Stock otherwise.

[Rogan]

Originally Posted by rallye12ctd

What is your axle ratio?

I'll go look - time for a smoke break anyway ..

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'96 RAM2500 CTD SCLB 4x4 Auto, 3.5:1 D70 LSD - BHAF, KDP fix, catless 4" with turn-down after the cab, 3K GSK, #10 torque plate, boost/pyro gauges, 5th wheel setup, Pioneer cd player, crank-em-up windows - otherwise, it's a boner-stocker

[Rogan]

Dana70 3.5:1 LSD, Std Duty 4spd Auto, 241 tcase

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'96 RAM2500 CTD SCLB 4x4 Auto, 3.5:1 D70 LSD - BHAF, KDP fix, catless 4" with turn-down after the cab, 3K GSK, #10 torque plate, boost/pyro gauges, 5th wheel setup, Pioneer cd player, crank-em-up windows - otherwise, it's a boner-stocker

[RPegram]

Originally Posted by rallye12ctd

Do you think it's safe for me to do this? My original clutch has slipped once on me in 5k miles. 185k on truck. I don't pull.

Also- would this make an EGT gauge necessary?

These mods only add fuel on the bottom end and give a quicker throttle response. It doesn't really do much for top end except allow engine to keep fueling up to 3200. If you are having problems with your clutch, these could put you over the edge if you like to play with the new found performance.

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'96 Dodge 3500,KDP killed, boost-pyro-trans temp, not stock anymore
'01 Dodge 2500 4X4, EC, LB, 6 speed, FP-pyro-boost,
'97 Chevrolet Suburban, K1500, 4.10 gears

[RPegram]

Originally Posted by Rogan

awesome info, thank you. I believe I'll order the 3K setup next week.

When you're towing, what kinda mileage do you 'normally' get, at 63-65mph?

I average around 14 over multiple tanks on a long 1000 mile trip. I normally fill up around half tank, because when I am towing the camper I like to pick my spot where I refuel. I have a 3.54 Dana 80 rear end. I just changed the oil today in it. If I push my speed up to around 70, mileage drops to 12. Running around the county where I live which is combination city/highway i average a little over 19.

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'96 Dodge 3500,KDP killed, boost-pyro-trans temp, not stock anymore
'01 Dodge 2500 4X4, EC, LB, 6 speed, FP-pyro-boost,
'97 Chevrolet Suburban, K1500, 4.10 gears

[Rogan]

cool, thanks. how are these guys getting in the mid-high 20s?? lol (not towing, of course)

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'96 RAM2500 CTD SCLB 4x4 Auto, 3.5:1 D70 LSD - BHAF, KDP fix, catless 4" with turn-down after the cab, 3K GSK, #10 torque plate, boost/pyro gauges, 5th wheel setup, Pioneer cd player, crank-em-up windows - otherwise, it's a boner-stocker

[Badger]

Slide towards the radiator.

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95 CTD 2500 STD Cab 4X4, KDP Tabbed, Boost/Pyro, AFE Stage II, 4" MBRP Exhaust, ATS Exhaust Manifold, BD T/C and Trans w/ Torq Loc, DDP STAGE II INJECTORS, #10 PLATE, CFM+ Intake, HID Head lights, ROL BAK Cover, 2" leveling Kit

[RPegram]

Originally Posted by Rogan

cool, thanks. how are these guys getting in the mid-high 20s?? lol (not towing, of course)

If I put mine on the interstate unloaded and stayed around 65-70 I'm sure my mileage would go up to the low 20's. Around the county here I can only go maybe 8 miles before I have to slow down and then speed back up. A lot of the mods done by people on here will actually increase mileage, but you have to be careful with that little skinny pedal on the right. Advancing timing to 15* - 16* and change injectors and you can get an increase of 2-4 mpg.

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'96 Dodge 3500,KDP killed, boost-pyro-trans temp, not stock anymore
'01 Dodge 2500 4X4, EC, LB, 6 speed, FP-pyro-boost,
'97 Chevrolet Suburban, K1500, 4.10 gears