![]() |
|
|
- HOME
- FORUMS
- GARAGE
- TECH
- ARTICLES
- CHAT
- CLASSIFIEDS
- REVIEWS
- VIDEOS
- MEMBER MAP
- STORE
- - REGISTER - CALENDAR - INFO - SITE HELP - RULES - STAFF - MEMBERSHIP - CONTACT US - |
|
Welcome to the Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum, the fastest growing Dodge Diesel Community on the internet. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us |
|
|||||||
| Register | Forums | FAQ | Members List | Calendar | Active Topics | Mark Forums Read |
| 94-98 Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect...NO ADVERTISING |
![]() |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
#1 (permalink) |
|
Cummins Fanatic
|
torquing head studs
I have read a few articles and I want to torque my head studs down more but dont know if I should take them out to oil them or just torque them down more 5lbs at a time. I was thinking I dont want to take them all out because it would take pressure off the head gasket so I was thinking I could take out one, oil it then torque in down to where it was, then after I do that to all of them in sequence I could start torquing then 5lbs at a time to 125lbs. Anyone see any issues with this way? Thanks
__________________
1995 Auto 4x4, 100 plate, 3gsk, upgraded tranny, lockup switch, BHAF, KDP tabbed, guages, 4in TBE, and some leather seats from a 01. |
|
|
|
| Sponsored Links | |
Advertisement |
|
|
|
#2 (permalink) |
|
Diesel Head
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Hershey PA
Posts: 1,281
Thanks: 31
Thanked 51 Times in 40 Posts
|
what i did was loosen um all up and then check um for oil, mine still had alot of oil on them so i put im back in made um tight too 100lbs then followed the torque pattern and went in 10 and then a 5lb increment up to 125, you could still keep um tight and go from there, im fairly sure my head was never touched and had a lot of oil on them bolts but do it rightthe first time pull um and check um just to make sure
__________________
97' 2500 12V, 4x4, Auto, Dunrite Triple Disc T/C & V/B, 4k-GSK, Bilstein 5100 Shocks, DSS Stablizer, DiPricol Optix Gauges, #0 Fuel Plate, 14cm Non-Wastegated Housing, Amsoil 4510, T/C Lockup Switch, 15* Timing, 4" Turbo Back to 5" Mitres |
|
|
|
|
|
#3 (permalink) |
|
P-pumped 24v Guy
![]() Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Cardington, Ohio
Posts: 4,462
Thanks: 9
Thanked 345 Times in 214 Posts
|
I pulled mine one at a time, oiled it and retorqued to stock(about 100). I found the bolts on the exhaust side were all dry when i pulled them, the others were fine but i took each bolt out and oiled it just to be sure. After oiling i took them to 110, 115, 120 then 125ft lbs. Was running about 47psi on it, now im up to 55 and havent had any problems....yet.
__________________
2000 QCSB with a p-pump, typically broke and always stealing $$ from me ohiocoalrollers.com
|
|
|
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|