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what size fuel plate

15K views 13 replies 8 participants last post by  1070 
#1 ·
Gonna try to get some better economy and torque out of my beasty.I took off the grease car system cause i got no time to process fuel so i thought since i do not have to worry over that anylonger i could mess a bit with the star wheel and replace the plate.I do have a stock auto transmission so i know that major changes are a no no . but how much is safe/ too much? I have been told a #5 is safe but what do you fella's recommend?
 
#2 ·
Stock slid forward, and a few notches on the wheel.
Won't help economy tho
 
#3 ·
Economy won't change unless you change your driving habits, no matter which plate you have. The only thing it changes is the amount of fuel available, not the amount of fuel used. Increase torque at your own risk, again, the plate (or none) that you use won't keep you from exceeding the trans limits.
 
#4 ·
#5 ·
Already got 4 inch exhaust. Makes it loud but goes nowhere.Thinking air filter change and valve body mods as well.I dont want to make 300 hp.I just want to do about 220 or so and make pulling the camper a bit nicer.

What can i do for economy?
 
#9 · (Edited)
A 10 plate is usually recommended for those who tow. The 8 plate needs more pyrometer watching as it allows EGT's to increase much faster. The 6 would be faster yet.

The hp ratings for each plate are not exact. You can gain 50hp just sliding the stock fuel plate forward. That means the position of the fuel plate as well as its number which equals height at certain points affect your final hp level.
 
#10 ·
A 10 plate is usually recommended for those who tow. The 8 plate needs more pyrometer watching as it allows EGT's to increase much faster. The 6 would be faster yet
Seriously, what he said, as you move closer and closer to no plate you'll be closer and closer to pegging 1000° WOT like its nothing, (assuming stock turbo, intercooler, etc.) That's what it was like when I was running no plate. But to me, the performance didn't really outweigh seeing those kinds of temps at WOT, so I threw the stocker back in and just pushed it forward. You can still get pretty good performance while managing EGT's. I don't mean to beat a dead horse, just storytime! :hehe:

I got the Haisley plate ready to go in.... :stirpot:
 
#11 ·
the only thing a plate does is control fuel at wot if you can control your right foot just take it out and use the money to buy gauges. as said above no plate will save fuel it is the way you drive. if you install gauges and learn how much boost and egts your truck makes stock then drive that way after removing the plate or installing a aftermarket one you will use the same amount of fuel.
 
#12 ·
I'm not a big fan on removing the plate unless I was the ONLY person to ever drive my truck. There's times something needs hauled and I may be doing another job, with my truck being the only one on the farm that can handle the larger gn trailers it will have to be used.
I don't want to have the argument, me: I told you to watch the gauges. them: I forgot!
No amount of that argument will fix a toasted engine or lower the repair bill so the plate stays in (tuned for my needs) that way I maintain a happy family and keep good friends.
 
#13 ·
I ground mine to a 100, I have plenty of power for passing but can't keep my foot in it much longer than that before my EGTs go up. I have a BHAF, need to build a box for it. Also need to do a 4" exhaust. I've done everything to the AFC I can, and blocked off the wastegate. I can get almost 40psi.
 
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