Issues! - Shut Off Solenoid bad? - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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Old 05-08-2009, 01:08 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Exclamation Issues! - Shut Off Solenoid bad?

Well I have had my shut off solenoid fall off before (the 2 bolts vibrated out and so did the solenoid) and the insides fell out. I pu them back on and put on new bolts with lock washers and locktite. It was good for a long while.

Recently it seems like my truck just idles too low and if it is in neutral it will usually stay alive and idle fine (unless you hammer on it and then let off real quick). But when I am driving and hit the breaks at low speeds it will stall out or even leaving a stop.

The shut off solenoid also seems to be pretty hot (not sure if it is normally hot or what). If I unplug the solenoid I get nothing at all.

Also if I give it just the slightest bit of gas it will idle perfectly.

and I have no loss of power.


I am stumped. Does anyone know what my issue might be? My only guess would be the solenoid.
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Old 05-08-2009, 01:17 PM   #2 (permalink)
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maybe try turning up the idle just a tad, mine is real touchy, i have mine set at about 800 and am happy with it, when it was set at 750 it was a little too low
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Old 05-08-2009, 01:29 PM   #3 (permalink)
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How do I adjust the idle? I couldnt find anything like that anywhere (granted this is my first diesel and there is not carb with a screw...)

I think that might be it.

But is it on the Injection Pump or what?

Thanks
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Old 05-08-2009, 05:08 PM   #4 (permalink)
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this here will show ya where it is at, loosen the lock nut on the bottom set your idle by turning the bolt at the linkage arm and re tighten the lock nut. they are pretty touchy it don't take much.
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Old 05-08-2009, 05:10 PM   #5 (permalink)
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CumminsDatabase.com :: 12V Idle Adjust

The shutoff solenoid consists of 2 coils. A high amp 'pull' coil which is energized via relay on the firewall when the starter is engaged and a low amp 'hold' coil which is energized via relay on the firewall when the key is in the run position.

The soilenoid shouldnt get smoking hot during use. That is a sign of sticking starter contacts or the relay is sticking and keeping the pull coil energized. This can be verified by use of a multimeter on the coil wires. If it is indeed keeping both coils energized during operation try to get it fixed ASAP, keeping the pull coil energized too long will cause extreme heat buildup and ultimately the failure of an extremely overpriced part! (the solenoid)
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Old 05-08-2009, 05:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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You'll know it really fast if the pull up coil is sticking on.
Within five minutes the paint would be cooked off the solenoid, in ten the wiring would be melted and on it's way to catching on fire.
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Old 05-08-2009, 10:55 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Well I was laying on the starter now and again when I was working on it so that might have been why the solenoid was getting hot.

So what your saying then is there are really two solenoids in one there? 1 to open the normal operating fuel path, and another to open a greater path for starting?

Well I am going to check out the solenoid getting hot more tomorrow.
I am also going to adjust the idle a bit higher but I still think it is weird that it all of a sudden just decided to start dieing when I was breaking at low speed or stopped, and it wont start without me givin it a little gas...

Anyone have any other ideas on what it could be?



oh and one last thing. I just cranked the star pretty high today and found a BIG low end difference. I have my boost set to 37.5psi, should I slide the fuel plate forward tomorrow too? Are doing those two things safe and wont KILL my mileage?


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Old 05-09-2009, 07:03 AM   #8 (permalink)
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one part of the solenoid moves the plunger the other just holds the plunger all the way up.
check to see if the boot on the bottom is still in one one piece.
then turn the key on and just bump the starter and leave the key in the run position. check the solenoid it should be pulled all the way up. if its not pull it up till it holds and go and start the truck. if it starts better the solenoid or wiring is probably at fault for the hard start. Mine acted up and it was just a bad battery connection. cleaned all the small wires on the drivers side up and replaced the ends. it has been fine sinse.
If yer gettin 37.5 lbs boost im thinking yer fuel is pretty well cranked up now.
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Old 05-09-2009, 10:40 AM   #9 (permalink)
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When they say adjusting the idle doesn't take much they mean it. I adjusted mine yesterday and 2 flats on the bolt was all I needed to go from hard starting to starting perfectly with no pedal. It increased the RPM by about 100-150 with less than 1.2 turn.

All I can say is your arms need to bend like a coathanger to get at it. Closing your eyes and sticking your tongue out the left corner of your mouth somehow increases the chances of success.
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Old 05-09-2009, 11:56 AM   #10 (permalink)
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lol snake arms eh?

well yesterday when I was messing with the solenoid it seemed like the plunger would only drop when I unplugged the solenoid. I could be wrong. I am going to go adjust the idle and check out the solenoid a lot closer when I get home.

thanks again guys
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Old 05-09-2009, 02:21 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Okay I checked the solenoid and it seems to be working fine (although a tad bit loose so I need to tighten it).

As for the idle, I finally found it (I need to degrease BAD) and found the my lock nut was gone... I am pretty sure this is the issue so I need to get a new nut. I adjusted it and it ran perfect.

So does anyone know the type of the nut I need? I am assuming 10mm fine thread.

Thanks again guys
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