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As stated above it can be tighten as much a possible.
What I do when replacing a seal is make a mark on the pinion and nut before removing.
Then when tightening it back up, go just barely past that mark.
450 - 500 ft. lbs. is hard to get.
And I would use the red Locktite on a used nut.
No crush sleeve on a Dana 80.
All preload is done with shims.
Holly digging up an old thread...but I have a quick point to add to this as well as a little more info.
The statement quoted is pure false. Some Dana 80's came with or without crush sleeves, lets just make that clear, this knowledge is from over 40 years of axle building knowledge in the offroad industry. Second point and bit of helpful info I would like to toss out there if someone actually searches this forum first is this. This goes for all the rear axles in your cummins trucks. When you do pull the yolk off the axle to replace the pinion seal take a good look at the machined surface that the seal rides on. Make sure there is no groove or if so a very very small groove that the seal made over time. If it is too large you can either do one or both of these things to save from buying a new yolk which will run you in the range of 150 bucks. A: the easy one is to put a shim or two behind the yolk to space it out and make the seal ride on a different spot of the yolk if that makes sense your just moving the sealing surface away from that groove. B: you can put the yolk in a lathe and turn it down ever so slightly to get rid of that groove. Make note though to not make the surface a pure polished surface as the seal wont seal well.
Hope this added something to this and for future D80 pinion installers.
96, club cab, 5spd, 4x4, long bed, 4" Diamond Eye with muffler, BHAF with heat shield, AFC Mods, Fuel Plate Removed, Valair Kevlar/Ceramic 13", Sunpro fuel pressure boost and egt gauges, 5 1/2" lift on 35's.
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