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Injection Pump Grease?

2K views 17 replies 12 participants last post by  hiOsilver 
#1 ·
My 1996 dodge 12v cummins truck is acting up when I hit the top end of each gear. It pops and shoots white smoke and slows down before the auto trans shifts to the next gear. Someone told me I should try greasing the injector pump because mine had a grease zerk on it but I can't even get a grease gun on it. I couldn't find anything about this online. I don't even know what kind of grease to put in there. I took a picture of the grease zerk, maybe someone will recognize it.

Also someone cut the hoses off the lift pump and hooked up one of the Mr. Gasket electric pumps, it makes a clicking noise when it runs. Do those make enough pressure for a 12v engine?

I got this truck for $800 and I drove it home. It runs decent, except for the white smoke at Wide Open Throttle right before it shifts.
 

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#3 ·
Doesn't look like it is leaking fuel. I don't know why they would put one there and have it pointed right at the intake manifold so you can't grease it.
 
#5 ·
do not grease that, there should be a over flow valve and return line there. someone that did not know what they were doing has worked on it.
 
#7 ·
Someone through a zerk in there because they lost the plug, or something like that. Which could very well cause low fuel pressure, and if that's the case, then that's likily your fueling problem. I would highly recomend hooking up the stock mechanical lift pump again.
 
#8 ·
Someone bubba'd the OFV and for some reason used a grease zerk to put it back together where there should just be a small hex head plug. P7100's (or any other IP as far as I know) don't use grease. Stop listening to the person who told you to grease it.

Your sad little Mr Gasket pump isn't putting out enough fuel or pressure for the IP and you're risking damage to the IP when you put it into a heavy throttle situation.

I would check fuel pressure, after which you will probably decide to replace the OFV and the factory LP and hooking it back up properly. If it's still doing the white smoke thing, check timing.
 
#9 ·
Thanks. The guy that told me to grease it admitted it was like a Blinker Fluid joke and I took it hook line and sinker cause there was actually a grease zerk there. Man this truck is worked over but the price was cheap. $800

I took that overflow valve out and now that I know what it is called I did some research on them. Aren't they supposed to have a ball and spring inside? It looks like the previous owner gutted it and there is nothing inside. I was very careful when removing it and there was literally nothing inside it, just a straight through tube for fuel to flow.

Can I get a spring and a ball bearing and calibrate it to the correct PSI by testing with a gauge and hand pump cheaper than that Torktek device? I want to run it in a mud bog next weekend if it is up to it.

As for the fuel pump will an in tank sending unit out of a car work? I can put a tank from a car in the bed and hook it up, the excess fuel pressure will just go back through the overflow and act like a pressure regulator, right?
 
#10 ·
Gasoline units aren't really rated for diesel, not that it won't work but for how long? Also why would you want to rig a truck with a car fuel tank that already seems to have enough rigging in it's past? If anything that truck needs some love given to it lol
I wouldn't mess with trying to get the ofv set the way your talking, I would just swap in another, they aren't terribly expensive.
 
#11 ·
Also the truck in my signature is not the truck I am working on.

I bought a cheap truck for Mud Bogging and it happened to be a 1996 Dodge 2500 12V Cummins, Automatic, 4x4 as well but it is not in great condition like my daily driver. I put a new turbo center section in it, new front wheel bearing, mudding tires, and now once I got it so I can safely pedal down I find that the fuel system is a SNAFU.

I have to figure out this fueling issue cheap so I can hit the last couple mud bogs of the year. If it survives then I'll fix it up right over the winter but I don't think that the automatic would like performance upgrades. I'm just mudding a diesel cause the spark plugs don't get wet in the mud like they do on the competition.
 
#12 ·
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#13 ·
Holy crap that thing is a mess but still sounds like a great deal for $800 if the internals are ok. You need to re-do the fuel system. I'd order a new factory lift pump or a holly black knock off pump from ebay and use that. Go to napa and run new fuel lines to everything. Feed is 3/8" and 1/2 npt will work for the factory lift pump inlet if you unscrew the elbow out of it. Return from the inj pump factory is 5/16. Get an overflow valve on it, the pump needs to circulation some fuel back to the tank to keep it cool and free of bubbles. Also tap the inlet banjo bolt for a fuel psi gauge. I just use a cheap $10 oil pressure gauge, works great. You need at least 20 psi under load or it will pop and struggle like it has been.
 
#15 ·
I thought I had seen everything....
 
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