Some of you on this forum know that I tow a lot. With that said, my trailer has a from factory rating of 17000 lbs. under it is two 7000 lbs dexter axles and the other 3000 lbs comes from pin weight. It recently occurred to me that I am possibly overloaded on the rear of the truck at least tire wise because of the single rear wheel.
While towing to various destinations through all kinds of terrain mountainous and otherwise, the tires on my truck have never gotten hot so I firmly believe for safety's sake that I am doing just fine as is right now.
If I swapped out the rear axle for a DRW Dana 80, I assume I would have to reregister the truck for higher payload capacity from that DRW axle. This is a mere thought right now, I am confident right now that I could continue towing what I do so at this point for the next 10 years and never have safety problem. In the two clubs I pull with, I don't know anyone that has gotten any hassle from the DOT. I appreciate thoughts especially those that tow a lot.
I do not know about Connecticut but where I come from unless you are using it commercially (working under u.s.d.o.t. number) it should not matter. And if you are the only place they would catch you is the scale house.
You can register it for what ever you want and put what ever rear end you want under it. Legally by the mfg tag on the door of your truck its still a 2500. Until you change that tag, it will always be a 2500.
I know a SRW has a higher load capacity than a DRW, but only by 100-200#. the extra tires+ rims and fender flares of the DRW take away some of it capacity..I know I was kinda surprised too. I wanted something to throw a slide in into and found this out in my research, so I went with a SRW. Only benefit I can see to DRW is more stability and load spread out over 2 more tires.
I know around here the state will recertify a vehicle if you can prove it has the needed equipment upgrades.
I know a SRW has a higher load capacity than a DRW, but only by 100-200#. the extra tires+ rims and fender flares of the DRW take away some of it capacity..I know I was kinda surprised too. I wanted something to throw a slide in into and found this out in my research, so I went with a SRW. Only benefit I can see to DRW is more stability and load spread out over 2 more tires. .
Where are you getting your numbers from? A 2500 has a GVW of 8800 lbs. My factory dually has a GVW of 11,000. That's 2200 lbs more, for those of you that suck at math.
If you put a drw axle into a 2500, then yes, you lose capacity. This is because just by putting another set of tires on the back it does NOT make your truck into a 3500. The only thing that does that (legally) was Dodge putting a 3500 vin plate on your truck when it was built.
I tow a lot and have 2 duallys and 2 srw. I do not hesitate to tow anything with my srw's that I tow with my drw's. If you want the added stability then I can see the sense in it, but the added weight capacity really isn't there if you have good tires and good suspension. Dual wheels also decrease mileage slightly. Good e rated tires have a capacity of like 3500-4000# per tire I think. That's a lot.
Although hard to find I think there is a G rated tire that is rated for 110 psi and 4000lb per single. Try goodyear. The E rated is 3080 lbs at 80 psi.
I always thought the lesser load rating for the dually was bogus. After all the extra weight of the dualls is not being carried by the truck like a load in the bed. Also, I think there was an option for 500 more capacity on the dually. Mine is stickered for 11,000 gvw. I think some are 10,500.
Tires can easily be the number one weak link. Tires must get rid of heat generated by flexing. Hot weather, high load, and high speed are the trifecta that will cause a failure. Always max out the pressure (plus 10% per mfgr) when at full load.
I went from SRW Ford to DRW Dodge to SRW Dodge and now back to DRW Dodge, all 3500 series. I definitely notice zero sway on my tag along camper with DRW.
I plan on doing the same upgrade, i specifically went out and found a cab and chassis parts truck with 4.10 gears. These have the 8000# rear end, more leafs and overloads compared to my auto d70/2500. I wanted a cab and chassis and not a standard dually axle becasue the c&c are 2 inches narrower then SRW axle. The duallies are 2 inches wider then SRW. So my short box will only need really over sized fender flares (like 4 inch) to cover the tread. I haven't done the swap yet, might be a spring time project.
I sold the service body for $100 more then i paid for the whole truck
On the legal side it doesn't matter. you can plate your truck for less then gvw or way more then gvw it does not matter so long as you are never OVER your tags/tires/safety.
Personally i plan on getting 10k plates when my 8k's expire. 8k is the cut off for standard truck plates, 10k is commercial plates (in WI).
As far as commercial it is you tires and mfg sticker, tags have nothing to do with it other then maybe a overweight ticket in some states. Dealt with this with a DOT trooper on a overweight ticket on one of my dump trucks.
I think for what I haul now, my load range E tires are doing fine. Just hauled the tractors 1 hour south and then back for a tractor pull. Tires were quite warm to the touch but I could hold my hand there all day. And it was mostly highway traveling doing 65mph. Was even able to hold fifth gear because it's so flat there. It's when I head north of here that the mountains get quite steep.
In the future if my load gets any bigger I'll consider load range G tires.
In terms of more leafs, this truck came stock with the camper package. From what I understand, at least for second gen trucks, that means it's got the same springs as a 3500.
In terms of more leafs, this truck came stock with the camper package. From what I understand, at least for second gen trucks, that means it's got the same springs as a 3500.
Indeed. I would say the only reason you would want to upgrade to DRW would be to reduce sway/add lateral stability, and add a safety factor for tire blowouts.
I never could under stand the more stability with a drw, the spring are at the same spot
on the frame so the rear end side to side roll will be the same.
Tire squirm will be greatly reduced. You also have twice the square inches of rubber on the road to hold you from moving.
I was told with a dually the truck will tip up before it rolls like a srw can. I was told this by a man who daily drove a dually and pushed it hard and often. He said he went around corners better than a camaro or other sports car did because of the extra rubber.
In WA, non-commercial vehicles are exempt from weight limits. You pay tax on your vehicle's gross weight for your yearly registration, but they don't scale it. They go by what the state thinks your rig weighs. In my case, they think my truck weighs something like 5600 lbs.
You also need to remember you will have less traction on slick roads
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