LOL, I made that drawing some time ago...amazing how these things get filtered around the different sites. And yes, it is rough, and only to show the "general differences".
Whit as far as the hook goes....when I built mine originally, I only wanted the 100 profile to give the bottom edge of the plate a little more chance ot grabbing the gov arm before it went under, otherwise I wanted a zero. I've seen the 100 you put in the boy's rig and if it fuel hard enough then there's no worries. With only about 3/8" of verticle travel though, getting out of the hook quick and into full rack was my goal. When I made my bosses plate P7100 Custom Plate Tuning - A
I made it to fuel hard then start pulling it fairly quick because he refuses to go any bigger with his turbo than his stage 3 HTT HX35. To pull fuel early then let it go full rack later is actually backwards for most mild to moderate applications. We run into EGT problems on the top end with RPM, but generally not down below given the same amount of fuel. So to really get the poop out of a 100...or a custom curved 10 like I made, we get out of the hook fast for hard fueling where we can handle the temps, then pretty quick like start to defuel it some as the rpm band elevates. This makes for a lot of fuel and power where the engines make it anyway, but leans it a little before temps are a problem.
Notice the quick ramp off idle. And in reality, as the throttle is nailed off idle, the arm lands right in the deepest p[art of the plate, then almost immediately starts defueling gradually. This plate, once I polished it, was made exclusively for his truck and with the RPM's it currently sees. It was a major difference from the run of the mill 100 that was in it. He can hold her to the wood till he runs out of governor and never see high temps...and the truck is quicker.
For those wanting to really get the most safe power from a budget 12 valve, the method in that thread is really the only way to go, and it will get you real acquainted with your pump and engine.