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The 100 seams awfully thin to me at the starting point? when I built one for my sons 94 I tappered back in alot further than that......maybe I built a 90 plate or something? It did make a big difference though
The numbers represent the profile that you would get if you went to TST or somebody like that and gave them the number. The #100 is a combination of a #10 and a #0. Hopefully that is now clear as mud.
LOL, I made that drawing some time ago...amazing how these things get filtered around the different sites. And yes, it is rough, and only to show the "general differences".
Whit as far as the hook goes....when I built mine originally, I only wanted the 100 profile to give the bottom edge of the plate a little more chance ot grabbing the gov arm before it went under, otherwise I wanted a zero. I've seen the 100 you put in the boy's rig and if it fuel hard enough then there's no worries. With only about 3/8" of verticle travel though, getting out of the hook quick and into full rack was my goal. When I made my bosses plate P7100 Custom Plate Tuning - A I made it to fuel hard then start pulling it fairly quick because he refuses to go any bigger with his turbo than his stage 3 HTT HX35. To pull fuel early then let it go full rack later is actually backwards for most mild to moderate applications. We run into EGT problems on the top end with RPM, but generally not down below given the same amount of fuel. So to really get the poop out of a 100...or a custom curved 10 like I made, we get out of the hook fast for hard fueling where we can handle the temps, then pretty quick like start to defuel it some as the rpm band elevates. This makes for a lot of fuel and power where the engines make it anyway, but leans it a little before temps are a problem.
Notice the quick ramp off idle. And in reality, as the throttle is nailed off idle, the arm lands right in the deepest p[art of the plate, then almost immediately starts defueling gradually. This plate, once I polished it, was made exclusively for his truck and with the RPM's it currently sees. It was a major difference from the run of the mill 100 that was in it. He can hold her to the wood till he runs out of governor and never see high temps...and the truck is quicker.
For those wanting to really get the most safe power from a budget 12 valve, the method in that thread is really the only way to go, and it will get you real acquainted with your pump and engine.
In NW Florida? Get a hold of me...it's time Dodge makes it statement in these parts!!
'95 2500 Std Cab 4X4... DTT billet trans and billet triple disc, billet flexplate, compound turbos, AEM Dryflow, 160 pump, custom plate, 191's, EDM370's, peaked and tweaked AFC, rack control plug, 20*, 3K, head studs, marine +.020 HG, Water/meth
Thats not a real good idea. Theres a ball on the end of the govner arm (i believe not 100% sure on where exactly it is but it's in there), the ball will fall off when it's traveled to far and drop down into the pump. When it does that it wipes out the pump. So do it at your own risk.
I run no fuel plate, no problem, just a lot of power.
A lot of people have said that but then come crawling back a few months later with their tail between their legs wishing they had listened to the advice of folks with more experience...
The damage is a very consistant $1200.
'95 2500 4wd auto
'95 3500 5 speed heavy hauler
Stock for one day
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