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Don't know that I'd want to use a setup like that for cruise especially with an auto because it won't disengage when you step on the brakes.
You might just keep on going...
Oh ya you will keep going, this mod would be for the more advanced? Our old Mack trucks at work were set up this way, we used our throttle lock for cruise control, the new ones are all electric:thumbsup
nice idea on this, my buddies 97 3500 chevy has thesame concept for the cruis control, only it came like that from the factory.
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94 Single Cab Custom Flat bed, Loaded, Auto,3.55s, straight 3.5'' pipe, custom fuel plate AFC all the way forward, Intake, 250k, New build lots to be done.
That is the same one I saw on my son's 95. Previous owner had it installed. I also when to the wrecker and bought the solenoid (75-newer carbed/air conditioned Chev) for $5. The only difficulty is is making the bracket which can be made from a 3x3 piece of metal folded, ground and drilled. It works well, you rev the engine manually above the solenoids limit and turn it on. It does not have enough power to move the throttle from idle but will hold it after it is actuated.
This is pretty good guys. I've been lookin into the whole high idle thing but can't bring myself to spend 300 bucks for one....
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'99 dodge 4x4 NV4500, Super X VP, FASS 150, Custom Quick Spool Super B w/ ATS manifold, RV's, Smarty programming. north of 400 hp... Bout to add water/meth injection
I was pondering the same thing using the kit in the attachment here. I was planning on running it into the throttle linkage under the hood. Any good or bad thoughts on that. Roadless Gear Thumb Throttle Kit: Roadless Gear For Suzuki
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99 Quad Cab, 4wd, Comp Box W/Pump Wire & Boost Elbow installed, K&N Air Canon, MBRP exhaust, Twin PE 4200 High Pressure Fuel Pumps W/Fleetguard inline filter, Isspro EV Pyrometer, Boost Guage, Fuel Pressure Guage, DT Pro Fab Trac Bar, South Bend 13-1.25 Con O Clutch, Royal Purple Synthetics all around
that's pretty nifty too! I usually just synchronize downshifts - say from 5th back down to 4th I just pull out into neutral, and then bring the RPM's up to where it'll just fall back into 4th (matching engine RPM's with trans. rpm's and never touching the clutch) so that I can hold the brake a little with the left foot the whole time that I'm downshifting. That would be pretty neat to have a thumb lever on the shifter like a 4 wheeler though! I'm sure it'd take some getting used to. The only bad thing would probably be trying to get the line through the shifter boot and since we probably have bigger sticks than the Suzuki's - it might not fit around our shifter stick. Other than that, I might be lookin into that! :thumbsup
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'99 dodge 4x4 NV4500, Super X VP, FASS 150, Custom Quick Spool Super B w/ ATS manifold, RV's, Smarty programming. north of 400 hp... Bout to add water/meth injection
that's pretty nifty too! I usually just synchronize downshifts - say from 5th back down to 4th I just pull out into neutral, and then bring the RPM's up to where it'll just fall back into 4th (matching engine RPM's with trans. rpm's and never touching the clutch) so that I can hold the brake a little with the left foot the whole time that I'm downshifting
thats alfull hard on your synchros man!, our transmissions don't have the same synchros like a big truck, believe me, I drive big truck and also find it hard not to drive a manual pickup the same way, but they are just not gonna take it the same way!,
Yeah I used to drive big truck too but I heard that it's harder on the flex plate... I dunno about any of that really but I know that it throws a lot of people for a loop when I show em that I can shift without the clutch.
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'99 dodge 4x4 NV4500, Super X VP, FASS 150, Custom Quick Spool Super B w/ ATS manifold, RV's, Smarty programming. north of 400 hp... Bout to add water/meth injection
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