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post #1 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-19-2011, 11:08 PM Thread Starter
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Banks power fuel plate and waste gate

Hi need some help. I did do the afc mods myself but a mechanic said I should go with the banks fuel plate and a new wg and I will notice alot more power. Mechanic said he will pull out the pump and adjust everything to the new plate and put on the wg for $1100. The parts alone cost $550. Is it worth the money?
Secondly he said I should also install the twin ram intake manifold because the egr valve is very restrictive. I also need to relocate the fuel filter. Parts alone cost $950. Is that worth the money?
Any suggestions will be helpful.
Thanks in advance.


98 2500 dodge ram quad cab, lb, 2wd, 12 valve, auto, afe stage 2 cai, 60lbs, stage 5 Ats. Waiting for arp head studs to arrive to bench pump and install super b special, bd manifold, 4" mbrp, #8 plate, 4k gsk, Mack plug, and afc springs.

Last edited by jrswoodworking; 07-20-2011 at 03:08 AM.
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post #2 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-19-2011, 11:15 PM
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Don't ever go back to that mechanic... Read the beginners thread before doing anything and you'll save a lot of money and get the same results.

1996 2500: Loud and slow

2006 2500: Excessive chrome
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post #3 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-19-2011, 11:16 PM
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for god's sake no! i bought that exact banks bs. dont get me wrong, it did what it said but its not a big boost in power. i pulled the fuel plate out since then and ground my stocker. still have the waste gate actuator which works great but a $35 boost elbow will do the same thing. the twin ram intake MIGHT do a little but not anywhere close to it. hang around the site here for awhile and learn. please dont waste your money on that banks bs. either that or you can give me a percentage of what you would have spent on that banks product for savin you the money lol.
grind your plate or pull it completely and get the boost elbow

'97-5" straight #100 ff, 19*, 4k gsk, AD II 165, valair dd clutch, 1-3/8" billet input, ARP studs, 60#, BD Super B over s475, 024's, Mayville WI best 5x14's,
'90-4" exhaust, kdp killed, pacbrake, 60 lb springs
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post #4 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-19-2011, 11:18 PM
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06smoker beat me to it

'97-5" straight #100 ff, 19*, 4k gsk, AD II 165, valair dd clutch, 1-3/8" billet input, ARP studs, 60#, BD Super B over s475, 024's, Mayville WI best 5x14's,
'90-4" exhaust, kdp killed, pacbrake, 60 lb springs
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post #5 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-19-2011, 11:22 PM
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i'm sorry but...........




P.S. fuel plates are for sissies!!

1996 Dodge 2500 4x4
currently in Purgatory
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post #6 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-19-2011, 11:38 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. I did read the beginners thread and I did tuned the afc but I didn't do the boost elbow. I did notice some power but still want more but first I'm gonna do the boost elbow and take out the fuel plate and will see how I like that.
Thanks again.

98 2500 dodge ram quad cab, lb, 2wd, 12 valve, auto, afe stage 2 cai, 60lbs, stage 5 Ats. Waiting for arp head studs to arrive to bench pump and install super b special, bd manifold, 4" mbrp, #8 plate, 4k gsk, Mack plug, and afc springs.
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post #7 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-19-2011, 11:41 PM
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do that and you will have enough to kill your clutch lol trust me i know

'97-5" straight #100 ff, 19*, 4k gsk, AD II 165, valair dd clutch, 1-3/8" billet input, ARP studs, 60#, BD Super B over s475, 024's, Mayville WI best 5x14's,
'90-4" exhaust, kdp killed, pacbrake, 60 lb springs
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post #8 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-20-2011, 02:51 AM
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Read on doing all mods yourself.

The stock plate can be removed or ground down= free

No need for wg get a boost elbow =$15.

All can be done in about an hour your first time

94 reg cab 2wd/4k gsk/19.5*/cpp 7x.010's/sdx dv's/ and a big turbo in the works
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post #9 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-20-2011, 03:30 AM
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or you can just disconnect the waste gate if it's not the style where it runs to the afc... there are two ways cummins did this, either it went from the compressor outlet strait to the wastegate, or it did a t off deal and sent some line to the afc as well. (this is how mine was)

if you get a bit longer silicone intercooler tubing, you can run a common rail intake horn

Obsessed with power is such an understatement!
The pursuit of power is more often than not an unobtainable goal that is remedied by DEATH
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post #10 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-21-2011, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIRESTARTER View Post
or you can just disconnect the waste gate if it's not the style where it runs to the afc... there are two ways cummins did this, either it went from the compressor outlet strait to the wastegate, or it did a t off deal and sent some line to the afc as well. (this is how mine was)

if you get a bit longer silicone intercooler tubing, you can run a common rail intake horn
common rail intake horns aren't exactly the most free flowing... lol they're pretty restrictive actually.

and like everyone else said, drop that "mechanic" immediately.

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'01 3500 - Gone
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post #11 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-21-2011, 08:21 PM
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4k gsks, for added power...

96 DRW/ compounds, custom dvs, spearco intercooler, valair triple street, maxspool cam, DDP 140 injectors, and a few more beginner mods...
2006 mega, DPC and Morrison parts in trans
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post #12 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-21-2011, 08:24 PM
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What intake yall reconmmend?

Maxed 12mm pump, nv4500 w/ Valair DD, 35'' BFG on 3rd Gens, S300 Borg Warner, 12mm ARPs, BHAF, A-Pillar gauges and bad case of ITS .
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