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96 Blue Ram 2500 Ext. Cab,5" miter stacks,BHAF,T/Q lock up switch, BD AFC spring and other mods,18* timing,2095 Rack Plug,4K GSK ,0 Plate,Glow Shift gauges, 2" leveling kit, 315/75R16 BFGs ,and some cool stickers.
do a search and you will find a ton of threads started on this very topic. and beat to death.
Preboost screw bottomed out, gutted afc. Custom plastic bag over airfilter, No gauges. Delivery valves removed, 9.5 X 23.25 injectors, Turbo removed. silencer ring port and polished to stage 1.5
she roals the coal... and a tire on fire in the bed.
B O T T S R . COM
The Following User Says Thank You to Freewheelin For This Useful Post:
it doesnt "hurt" anything its just not very fun to tow. I just tuned and tuned until essentially my smoke screw was all as far up as it could go and it would only fuel as much as needed to get me up to highway speeds....i still pulled with it like that but you are certainly not going to go anywhere fast haha.
1996 Ram 2500 5sp.thuren track bar, WVO system MIA,and a big heavy bumper....SOLD
1996 Ram 2500 ext. cab 6sp. showroom new in progress.
1998 2wd 12 valve quad cab LB auto 240k miles
Besides the things you'll find on this forum, you can change the way you drive. Not some crazy kind of driving, but some subtle things to more or less burn less fuel. Tons of tips here and here.
Note that not all of these are feasible with our trucks, not to mention that many things are for gas engines.
The big one I would start doing is to conserve momentum. Say you see a red light ahead. Don't change up to it and stop as soon as you get there; rather, start coasting and maybe hit the brakes early to slow you down so that you get to the light and are still moving when it becomes green.
94 2500 rclb 5spd 2wd, 280k miles on the clock: 5x.016, 14.5° 4k GSK, 60 lb springs, 13125-OFEK, and it doesn't smoke more than stock because ==> stiffer-than-stock AFC spring.
go get yourself a pipe union that reduces from 4 inches to 2 or 3 then use some bushings to make it smaller yet until you can put the male part of an air hose on. put that on your turbo inlet and use a regulator to take it to 15 lbs and spray all your joints and places that operate of of turbo pressure with soapy water (waste gate, afc housing and plumbing, intake manifold). if there isnt any leaks good deal if there is they should be fixed before you spend any time or money on anything else
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