Best air intake manifold out there? - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
- HOME - FORUMS - GARAGE - TECH - ARTICLES - CHAT - CLASSIFIEDS - REVIEWS - VIDEOS - MEMBER MAP - STORE - INSURANCE -
- REGISTER - CALENDAR - INFO - SITE HELP - RULES - STAFF - MEMBERSHIP - ADVERTISE - CONTACT US -


Welcome to the Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum, the fastest growing Dodge Diesel Community on the internet.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us
Go Back   Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum > 2nd Gen. Dodge Cummins 94-98 12V Forums > 94-98 Performance Parts Discussion
94-98 Performance Parts Discussion Discussion of Performance Parts For the 94-98 Trucks No Advertising ...NO ADVERTISING

CumminsForum.com is the premier Dodge Diesel Truck Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.

Auto Insurance

» Featured Product
Wheel & Tire Center

Closed Thread
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-18-2011, 04:40 PM   #1 (permalink)
Newbie
 
Malcom Motorsports's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Shelley Idaho
Posts: 13
Thanks: 2
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Best air intake manifold out there?

I'm looking at buying a AFE blade runner air intake manifold! And just wanted to see what people thought about them or if anything is better out there! I plan on only buying 1 so i wanna get the best out there! Thanks For the help!
__________________
1995 2500, 4x4, 5 speed, fuel plate slid forward, Torque plate #100, DIY INTAKE, Silencer ring MIA, 4 inch straightpipe, glow shift gauges (EGT BOOST)
Malcom Motorsports is offline   Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 03-18-2011, 04:46 PM   #2 (permalink)
Diesel Head
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Montgomery, AL
Posts: 1,659
Thanks: 9
Thanked 159 Times in 132 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
So you're gonna cut the factory manifold off your head and have a new one bolted on? How much power are you trying to make? I'm near 500 hp and am not even considering doing that soon. Or, are you talking about an air filter system?
__________________
'98 12v 2wd dually, SB DD, Detroit locker, 64/65/13 htb2, CPP 7x10's, 3kgsk, bhaf, 19*, 50 lbs boost
v8440 is offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 03-18-2011, 04:50 PM   #3 (permalink)
Diesel Head
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Montgomery, AL
Posts: 1,659
Thanks: 9
Thanked 159 Times in 132 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Nevermind, I just went and looked at what that is. First off, that's not really the intake manifold, that's the air horn that bolts to the manifold. Second, save your money for just about anything else you can think of-it'll be put to better use. Those things just don't add much power, if any, to our trucks. It's not just that particular one, I mean air horns in general. The money would be much better spent on:

Injectors
turbo
3000 rpm governor spring kit (3k gsk)
4" turbo back exhaust
150 little bobblehead dolls to fill up the rear window with

Ok, the last one was a joke. Seriously though, don't waste your money on an aftermarket air horn. That's one of those things that sounds like a GREAT way to improve power-after all, the air has to go through it, so the factory one must be junk, right? In this case, theory and reality are not the same.
__________________
'98 12v 2wd dually, SB DD, Detroit locker, 64/65/13 htb2, CPP 7x10's, 3kgsk, bhaf, 19*, 50 lbs boost
v8440 is offline   Quick reply to this message
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to v8440 For This Useful Post:
12VEG (03-19-2011), Malcom Motorsports (03-19-2011)
Old 03-18-2011, 05:02 PM   #4 (permalink)
Newbie
 
Malcom Motorsports's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Shelley Idaho
Posts: 13
Thanks: 2
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
k Thanks i can save the $300 and put them into injectors I was thinking 100 horse injectors? I'm not trying to make much power but it would be nice i look at buying things only once so buy the best. But i do wanna walk all over them ricers
__________________
1995 2500, 4x4, 5 speed, fuel plate slid forward, Torque plate #100, DIY INTAKE, Silencer ring MIA, 4 inch straightpipe, glow shift gauges (EGT BOOST)
Malcom Motorsports is offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 03-18-2011, 10:27 PM   #5 (permalink)
Diesel Freak
 
TTR 21's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Moscow, ID
Posts: 994
Thanks: 27
Thanked 51 Times in 44 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
V8440 is dead on.

Here is a list of things to do or get.
Gauges
clutch
AFC tuning
dvs
3kgsk
Pusher pump
5x0.012 injectors
Air intake
lock up switch
__________________
1994 12v Auto "Budget Beater": 10.64 @ 129 MPH Fuel Only 1.61 60"
2002 TDI Jetta 5 Speed: 63 mpg
TTR 21 is offline   Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to TTR 21 For This Useful Post:
Malcom Motorsports (03-19-2011)
Old 03-18-2011, 11:30 PM   #6 (permalink)
Cummins Nut
 
BlackSkyRacing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Menomonie, WI
Posts: 339
Thanks: 11
Thanked 86 Times in 62 Posts
iTrader Score: 1 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Malcom Motorsports View Post
k Thanks i can save the $300 and put them into injectors I was thinking 100 horse injectors? I'm not trying to make much power but it would be nice i look at buying things only once so buy the best. But i do wanna walk all over them ricers
Exatly, put that $300 to use somewhere that it will make a difference... Though please don't use the bogus "hp rating" for injectors; it's all marketing hype and has no real bearing on true power potential of an injector.

What are you trying to do with this truck anyway? Pull it in a 2.6 class, drag race it, have a street toy, or a tow pig that will get out of it's own way?
__________________
Stan
94 CTD (for sale)
99 QCSB Sport... stock(ish)
BlackSkyRacing is offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 03-19-2011, 11:35 AM   #7 (permalink)
Newbie
 
Malcom Motorsports's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Shelley Idaho
Posts: 13
Thanks: 2
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
street toy daily driver that will do whatever i want it to! Gauges are on its way
__________________
1995 2500, 4x4, 5 speed, fuel plate slid forward, Torque plate #100, DIY INTAKE, Silencer ring MIA, 4 inch straightpipe, glow shift gauges (EGT BOOST)
Malcom Motorsports is offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 03-19-2011, 12:20 PM   #8 (permalink)
Cummins Fan
 
Flying_Dutchman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 65
Thanks: 5
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
iTrader Score: 1 reviews
The only aftermarket horn I would even consider is the pusher (they're a lot cheaper, $150-$200). But as previously stated you can make plenty of power on the stock horn, unless you have lots of extra money laying around you'll be a lot better off putting it somewhere else.
__________________
1996 2500 CCLB, 4X4, auto, fuel plate MIA, AFE stage 2, 5" TBE, 66/74/.85, 2095, 188/220 5x12s.
Flying_Dutchman is offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 03-19-2011, 02:56 PM   #9 (permalink)
Diesel Head
 
Algae Eater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,525
Thanks: 591
Thanked 829 Times in 552 Posts
iTrader Score: 6 reviews
The only production-aftermarket intake horn that actually solves the problem of air being drawn into the middle of the head, is the Banks Twin-Ram. Being that it has it's own intake plate with two inlets, one between cyl's 2 & 3 and the other inlet between cyl's 4 & 5. So this runs the 1 & 6 cylinders cooler, instead of cyl's 2-5 getting all the air.

I think it's how the stupid factory design should be.

But any other type of basic "horn" (even a pusher) is a waste of cash IMO.
And honestly, the Banks Twin-Ram is way too expensive as well.

I really like Tunnel Rams, but those aren't available as production aftermarket parts yet.
Maybe that's one product all ye fab guys (and/or entepreneurs) should be racing each other to make into a production thing.

Read the "Beginner's Thread" and get a GSK (gov spring kit) and read about that in the Beginner's Thread.

Get a boost elbow to allow the stock turbo to build more boost (should hit 35PSI to get best power & cool EGTs) otherwise, the extra fuel from your #100 plate slid forward is just making you run high EGTs without any more power. The stock wastegate setting only allows like 20PSI of boost.

People have suggested upgrading DV's, but I don't think you'll need DV's for the modest goal you seem to have. You could buy a set of 5x.014 injectors (sometimes called "140HP" since you mentioned wanting "100HP injectors", but BlackSky's right, they're bogus ratings, just a gradient to differentiate between them) and those would get you to around 500HP without the need for DV's.

I went with 5x12's to start with and I was disappointed. I don't think it's even worth it to switch the injectors out with stock unless you're gonna do at least 5x14's. Unless you truly have a modest goal and just need some moderate towing power, without any worries about EGT's.

And AFC tuning isn't necessary until you have a reason to tune. There's nothing really wrong with the stock tune. As long as your turbo spools quickly without smoke, there's no reason to touch your AFC unless you're MODDING it for more fuel rack travel (more top end fuel)... and then you still don't need to tune it (or touch the starwheel & pre-boost settings). Just put the housing back on where it was before and as long as the travel mods didn't cause the spring to flop around, you will only need to tune the starwheel after either replacing the spring (w/ longer TST spring from their "kit") or stretching the stock AFC spring.

Either way, people shouldn't "tune" their AFC without knowing what each adjustment *really* does, because that's how they mess up their turbo spool and add pointless smoke that hinders acceleration. I'm mostly talking about the pre-boost screw ("smoke screw") but also many people are running around with loose starwheels, which makes the spring (thus the AFC arm itself) flop around and never push against the back stop. This allows alot of smoke on the bottom and delays spool-up.

Last edited by Algae Eater; 03-19-2011 at 03:02 PM.
Algae Eater is offline   Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to Algae Eater For This Useful Post:
TURBOLVR (03-19-2011)
Old 03-19-2011, 07:42 PM   #10 (permalink)
CRAZY CARL
 
TURBOLVR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Clarkrange TN
Posts: 7,281
Thanks: 1,254
Thanked 2,155 Times in 1,449 Posts
iTrader Score: 8 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Algae Eater View Post
I really like Tunnel Rams, but those aren't available as production aftermarket parts yet.
Maybe that's one product all ye fab guys (and/or entepreneurs) should be racing each other to make into a production thing.
its NOT??

Tunnel Ram 12 Valve
__________________
'98.5 RAM 4x4 QC 12v, CRAZY CARL'S Whipple supercharger, Carl's SS twins, 13mm P7100,TUNNEL RAM intake plate, Hamilton head/valvetrain, , full 5" DUALS, BILLET AUTO

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DdwuxoSHsSo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ER9ddBIseTo
TURBOLVR is offline   Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to TURBOLVR For This Useful Post:
God prefers Diesels (03-19-2011)
Old 03-19-2011, 08:33 PM   #11 (permalink)
Diesel Head
 
Algae Eater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,525
Thanks: 591
Thanked 829 Times in 552 Posts
iTrader Score: 6 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by TURBOLVR View Post
I'm sorry for being unaware that something exists.
Why are you confused?

But I guess "tunnel ram" isn't the right word then, because I'm talking about the ones that pressurize a taller chamber.
I'm drawing a blank on the name.

Last edited by Algae Eater; 03-19-2011 at 08:35 PM.
Algae Eater is offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 03-19-2011, 09:16 PM   #12 (permalink)
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 13
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
not trying to start a war on this but i have the afe and i did notice a difference.smoother idle and a better acceleration from 0 to 30,after that no difference that i could tell.another strange sidenote the idle was a little bit different,less noise.
silkey is offline   Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Closed Thread

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:06 AM.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.

SEO by vBSEO 3.3.2