The only production-aftermarket intake horn that actually solves the problem of air being drawn into the middle of the head, is the Banks Twin-Ram. Being that it has it's own intake plate with two inlets, one between cyl's 2 & 3 and the other inlet between cyl's 4 & 5. So this runs the 1 & 6 cylinders cooler, instead of cyl's 2-5 getting all the air.
I think it's how the stupid factory design should be.
But any other type of basic "horn" (even a pusher) is a waste of cash IMO.
And honestly, the Banks Twin-Ram is way too expensive as well.
I really like Tunnel Rams, but those aren't available as production aftermarket parts yet.
Maybe that's one product all ye fab guys (and/or entepreneurs) should be racing each other to make into a production thing.
Read the "Beginner's Thread" and get a GSK (gov spring kit) and read about that in the Beginner's Thread.
Get a boost elbow to allow the stock turbo to build more boost (should hit 35PSI to get best power & cool EGTs) otherwise, the extra fuel from your #100 plate slid forward is just making you run high EGTs without any more power. The stock wastegate setting only allows like 20PSI of boost.
People have suggested upgrading DV's, but I don't think you'll need DV's for the modest goal you seem to have. You could buy a set of 5x.014 injectors (sometimes called "140HP" since you mentioned wanting "100HP injectors", but BlackSky's right, they're bogus ratings, just a gradient to differentiate between them) and those would get you to around 500HP without the need for DV's.
I went with 5x12's to start with and I was disappointed. I don't think it's even worth it to switch the injectors out with stock unless you're gonna do at least 5x14's. Unless you truly have a modest goal and just need some moderate towing power, without any worries about EGT's.
And AFC tuning isn't necessary until you have a reason to tune. There's nothing really wrong with the stock tune. As long as your turbo spools quickly without smoke, there's no reason to touch your AFC unless you're MODDING it for more fuel rack travel (more top end fuel)... and then you still don't need to tune it (or touch the starwheel & pre-boost settings). Just put the housing back on where it was before and as long as the travel mods didn't cause the spring to flop around, you will only need to tune the starwheel after either replacing the spring (w/ longer TST spring from their "kit") or stretching the stock AFC spring.
Either way, people shouldn't "tune" their AFC without knowing what each adjustment *really* does, because that's how they mess up their turbo spool and add pointless smoke that hinders acceleration. I'm mostly talking about the pre-boost screw ("smoke screw") but also many people are running around with loose starwheels, which makes the spring (thus the AFC arm itself) flop around and never push against the back stop. This allows alot of smoke on the bottom and delays spool-up.