|
|
|
- HOME
- FORUMS
- GARAGE
- TECH
- ARTICLES
- CHAT
- CLASSIFIEDS
- REVIEWS
- VIDEOS
- MEMBER MAP
- STORE
- - REGISTER - CALENDAR - INFO - SITE HELP - RULES - STAFF - MEMBERSHIP - CONTACT US - |
|
Welcome to the Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum, the fastest growing Dodge Diesel Community on the internet. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us |
|
|||||||
| Register | FAQ | Members List | Calendar | Mark Forums Read |
| 94-98 Non-Powertrain Discussion of 94-98 Topics Not related to the Powertrain...NO ADVERTISING |
|
|
|
![]() |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
#1 (permalink) |
|
Newbie
|
best way to bleed brakes?
1995 2500, cummins. manually, vacuum hand pump at the wheels, vacuum electric or air pump at the wheels, the $7.00 hose with a one way valve at the wheels or pressure pump at the master cylinder? the shop manual says to bleed the combo valve and rear anti lock valve, will one of these bleed those valves at the same time? i have to crawl under it on a gravel driveway. looking for something easier. dont want to spend the money on the more expensive ones if they are not worth it, dont want to waste money on the cheap ones if they dont work much better then doing it manually. |
|
|
|
| Sponsored Links | |
Advertisement |
|
|
|
#3 (permalink) |
|
Cummins Fan
|
i prefer getting a friend to help and hold your pedal.
__________________
1995 2500 SLT 12valve auto 4X4: regular cab longbed :factory 4.10's and looking for bigger tires; #6 fuel plate and gutted hfc housing , 4" downpipe and 5" out a single mitre, towing/performance valvebody and aftermarket(blue)??? lockup converter.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#4 (permalink) |
|
Moderator
![]() |
Problem with the pump the pedal method is if your friend pushes the pedal further than it's normal braking stroke that a rusted from waterlogged fluid master cylinder shaft can tear up the seals. Result is an internal master leak that causes the pedal to slowly creep down, master needs to be replaced. Way to keep this from happening when using the pump the pedal method is to place a block under the brake pedal to keep it from stroking too far.
__________________
Bill '95 2500 4wd auto '95 3500 5 speed heavy hauler Both far from stock |
|
|
|
|
|
#5 (permalink) |
|
Cummins Fan
|
Father sucks all the fluid out of the resevoir. This also cleans out the trash. Then he has an air assisted "pusher" and he pushes the fluid from the wheel to the master cylinder. This makes sure you clean the lines out of old fluid, and prevents you from getting air in there. Don't know what the tool cost him, but he is a master tech. You have to remove the fluid from the master cylinder after each wheel you push, then when you are done you will have completely fresh fluid with no trash.
__________________
'06 4x4 Dodge 3500, Airaid Cold air intake, 6speed tranny, not sure if anything else is done.
|
|
|
|
| Sponsored Links | |
Advertisement |
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|