Replacing fuel level sending unit... - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-21-2011, 08:13 PM Thread Starter
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Replacing fuel level sending unit...

Hi, getting ready to replace sending unit. I've read of both methods for access (dropping tank and raising bed) and sounds like raising the bed is the easier faster method. Is this the case? If you've done the bed method, how hard are the 4(?) bolts to remove and will a floor jack work to raise the bed? It's a two wheel drive so it's lower to the ground. And a time estimate please either way...


98 12v QC LB 4x4 5spd-2500
98 12v SC LB 4x4 5spd-3500
Couldn't afford a 24v-Bought 2-12v's instead
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-21-2011, 08:34 PM
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I would think it would be much easier to raise the bed. Remove the bolts on the drivers side. loosen the bolts on the passenger side. Jack up drivers side of be about 12-14 inches. this should be plenty of room to get in there and remove the ring holding the cannister in the tank. Remove the fuel lines and unplug the electrical connection. Raise the cannister out and replace. shouldn't take more than a couple hours total. i would squirt the bed bolts down with liquid wrench a couple of times before beginning.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-22-2011, 07:20 PM
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I recently did mine, but I have 8 bolts. I had to grind off two as the heads were too shot after 13 years. The bed lifts easy, just put my back in the wheel well and lifted. Have some blocks ready to wedge in to hold it up, you'll only need to lift it in small increments. Had to disconnect the rear elec harness also.

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-23-2011, 03:55 PM
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im looking into doing this as well, anyone have any pics of their work?

-Oscar1017//'98 2500 12v 4x4-
K&N CAI|6" Stacks|No Plate|3K Gsk|Marine 370|16.5* Timing|Isspro Ev2s|Fully Built Trans(Goerend/Dtt)|more to come...
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-23-2011, 04:56 PM
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When I lifted my bed, it was way easy.
I removed the four bolts on the driver's side (it's a long bed).
Then loosened the four bolts on the passenger's side.

Remove the bolts from the fuel-filler neck that go to the side of the bed.

Then, I just pushed up with my feet and the bed lifted (not really heavy, I was lying on the ground).

I then took a 2x4 and placed it between the chassis and the bed (reinforced part of the bed).
And that was it!

Plenty of space to clean the top of the tank for debris, remove the sending unit, replace, etc. etc.

1st Diesel 1995 Ram 2500 || 5.9CTD || 2wd long bed
Home-made KDP fix || 2x electric fans in front of condenser || tinkered fuel-plate and AFC || boost elbow ||
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-24-2011, 02:38 PM
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interesting! hopefully i can get this done soon

-Oscar1017//'98 2500 12v 4x4-
K&N CAI|6" Stacks|No Plate|3K Gsk|Marine 370|16.5* Timing|Isspro Ev2s|Fully Built Trans(Goerend/Dtt)|more to come...
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-25-2011, 01:01 AM
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Sorry to hijack the thread but where did everyone get there sending unit from? Dealer? Aftermarket?

97 2500 12v eclb..*restored - No Rust*, fuel plate shaved and AFC mods, silencer ring MIA, debadged, Autometer Cobalt boost/EGT/trans triple pillar, AFE air intake, boost elbow, mack rack plug, 4k gsk, 60 lb springs, 17* timing, kdp killed, straight piped
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-25-2011, 10:14 AM
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I bought mine from my local dealer, was < $50 and it came with a tank gasket. A dealer advantage is that by providing them a VIN #, you get the actual replacement part needed. Those doing this repair should look at the fuel line connection at the tank, mine was rusted thru. Easy to fix all at once, replaced my fuel lines at well.

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1998 RAM 3500 4X4 DRW CTD 12V - Gone !!
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-25-2011, 03:11 PM
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I've done it by lifting one bedside like described above, and just removing the bed completely. If you have two or three buddies available, pulling the bed is much easier in my opinion. Gives you way more room. Only took me about half an hour from taking the bed off to putting it back on.

'96 2500 RCLB, 47RE, 241HD, BHAF, Tuned AFC, #8 Plate, KDP'ed, MBRP T-B 4"-5" tip, Silencer Ring Gone, Skull Valve Stem Caps. In the works: 5" Lift w/6" coils. Dually Convert. Highway Products flatbed.
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