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I replaced the ball joints, tie rod ends, drag link, track bar ends, steering stabilizer, etc and had an alignment done and now I am having some goofy steering problems. It seems as though the wheels don't want to return to straight if they get turned at all so its like I have to fight to keep it going between the lines on the road. I have driven on it for a couple weeks and it seems to be getting a little better but I also might just be getting used to it. I also have a 2.5" leveling kit and the sway bar drop to go with it. I didnt do anything with the steering box also. I was told that one of the ball joints could be binding.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
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1994 2500 auto 4x4 intake, 4" turbo back, 315/75/16, KDP double fixed, Boost+EGT+Trans Temp+FP gauges, Built Trans, Ground Plate roughly #100, tuned AFC
Caster angle may be wrong, take it to a different shop and have the caster angle checked. some shops do not keep up with equipment maintenance. after doing that,drive it and if no better, then you have bad steering box. replace box.
The Following User Says Thank You to 6_cyl For This Useful Post:
Power steering level is good. I must just be getting used to it because I just worked out real good and I was once again fighting it to keep it between the lines because my arms were so tired... I'll take it to the other shop in town and see how it goes. thanks for our help.
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1994 2500 auto 4x4 intake, 4" turbo back, 315/75/16, KDP double fixed, Boost+EGT+Trans Temp+FP gauges, Built Trans, Ground Plate roughly #100, tuned AFC
I had the alignment checked. Its good. The guy at the second shop thought either the ball joints were over torqued or that the steering gear was bad. I followed the order and the specs in the shop manual so I don't think that is the problem but one thing I do remember was that the drivers side knuckle was pretty stiff to turn by hand after I had torqued the ball joints. I kind of shrugged it off because I had installed them as to the way the shop manual had specified and to the specified torques. Any thoughts besides the steering gear?
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1994 2500 auto 4x4 intake, 4" turbo back, 315/75/16, KDP double fixed, Boost+EGT+Trans Temp+FP gauges, Built Trans, Ground Plate roughly #100, tuned AFC
OK, this is what I would do to keep my sanity and save money,ball joints are toast.
buy new ball joints and take to shop and have them do all the work.
2nd post. buy new ball joints for both sides. take it to the shop you just went to, and have them install new joints and do alignment.
Not to come down on you, but front end work needs to be done by people who do this every day. I have seen it done and I do not care to know. I do know, when I take it to
the mechanic it is done right first time and I drive away. saves money.
I'm not mechanically retarded. They are brand new ball joints. It makes absolutely no sense to pay a shop to take out the brand new ball joints and put identical new ball joints in. I had the old ball joints pressed out and the new ones pressed in by a shop and the rest is essentially tightening nuts and bolts. I don't understand how that would save me any money at all considering the original quote from a shop was over a grand.
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1994 2500 auto 4x4 intake, 4" turbo back, 315/75/16, KDP double fixed, Boost+EGT+Trans Temp+FP gauges, Built Trans, Ground Plate roughly #100, tuned AFC
I was not implying that you don't know what you are doing. steering issues are a matter
of safety for you and others on the road. sorry for the tone I used.
good luck and hope you get it worked out.
Got it figured out. Apparently the ball studs were over seated. The bushing on the upper was too tight on the ball stud. Basically I must have gotten a little overzealous in seating the bushing on the uppers because they were too tight. The torque on the nut was fine but the actual bushing was too far down. Thanks for the input. I guess this one is case closed.
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1994 2500 auto 4x4 intake, 4" turbo back, 315/75/16, KDP double fixed, Boost+EGT+Trans Temp+FP gauges, Built Trans, Ground Plate roughly #100, tuned AFC
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