98 12 Valve Fuel Module - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
- HOME - FORUMS - GARAGE - TECH - ARTICLES - CHAT - CLASSIFIEDS - REVIEWS - VIDEOS - MEMBER MAP - STORE - INSURANCE -
- REGISTER - CALENDAR - INFO - SITE HELP - RULES - STAFF - MEMBERSHIP - ADVERTISE - CONTACT US -


Welcome to the Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum, the fastest growing Dodge Diesel Community on the internet.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us
Go Back   Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum > 2nd Gen. Dodge Cummins 94-98 12V Forums > 94-98 Non-Powertrain
94-98 Non-Powertrain Discussion of 94-98 Topics Not related to the Powertrain...NO ADVERTISING

CumminsForum.com is the premier Dodge Diesel Truck Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.

Auto Insurance

» Featured Product
Wheel & Tire Center

Closed Thread
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-08-2007, 12:52 AM   #1 (permalink)
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 3
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
98 12 Valve Fuel Module

Good evening all. I am pretty new here and this is my first post, so please bear with me. I also can be a little long winded.

I have a problem with the fuel tank module (I think I have determined that this is what it is called) on friends truck. The truck is a 1998 2500, 12 valve, 4wd, 5 speed with an 8' bed.

Where the supply and return fuel lines exit the top of the fuel tank module was badly rusted. The lines have completely separated from from the module. To explain better, the lines pass through a sheet metal bushing, this bushing is held in a rubber grommet/bushing which is fit into the plastic top of the fuel tank module. The metal portions of the lines are rusted out of the metal bushing. And to top it off the plastic quick connects on the steel lines running down the frame rail that connect to the module lines were cracked and broken.

So I need a new fuel tank module, or need to repair the original. He still has the stock LP in the engine compartment and does not want to replace the module with the in tank pump module.

So, finally, here come my questions. Can anyone recommend a source for re-manufactured fuel tank modules? And/or a place to buy replacement parts for the original? I have seen in my searching of posts here mention of reman units being a much more cost effective ($125 or so) alternative. The dealer wants $498 for a new module and I think is has the in tank pump.

The quick connectors on the steel lines are junk. Is there a way to change those without changing the entire lines? The dealer wants $85 each for new lines. Would it be a bad idea to cut off the plastic ends from the lines and replace them with good diesel fuel ratted rubber lines and stainless steel hose clamps?

Lastly, can anyone set me straight on some proper terminology on the fuel module. It has four openings in the top of it. Two are obvious, one being the electrical connection for the sending unit. The other is for the supply and return lines. But what is the "technical" name for that unit? I had been looking online at Mopar parts diagrams and can't figure out of I am looking at the right things.

The other 2 have me confused. One has a rather large projection from it compared to the rest and has a short plastic tube coming off the side of it with a red rubber cap on the end. The other points straight up and has a black rubber boot/cap clamped over it. If anyone can give me the "technical"/real/Dodge names for these components I would be most appreciative.

Sorry for such a long first post. Thanks in advance for any info and help anyone can give me. This thing has been a nightmare with the rust and cost of dealer parts. But I love the truck and am looking forward to having one myself.
rbleth51 is offline   Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 10-08-2007, 11:11 AM   #2 (permalink)
Diesel Head
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Eureka, CA
Posts: 2,081
Thanks: 4
Thanked 91 Times in 87 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
First of all you DON'T want any fuel module with an in tank pump regardless of the BS the dealer parts guy tries to feed you. The 12 valve stock mechanical lift pump is the most reliable pump available. The red rubber cap is probably the vent valve and should have been removed by the dealer. The black capped tube is for use as an input from an auxiliary tank. Do you have a picture of the mess at the fuel hose connections? If it's only clamps and connectors but does not leak that's one thing. If there are leaks then you may have to buy a fuel tank module. There are some after market products. One of them is called a Draw Straw. It replaces the fuel supply and return parts of the fuel tank module. Hopefully, someone will chime in about that.
__________________
KDP tab fix info and fuel system article jgeorge1@suddenlink.net '95 2500 CC auto 4X4, 3.54, EGT, boost, fuel pressure, trans temp guages, PacBrake, TST #5, DTT VB, DTT triple disk TC, DTT billet flex plate, Cummins chrome kit.
Joe G. is offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 10-08-2007, 11:31 AM   #3 (permalink)
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 3
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
As far as the in tank pump and such, I am with you. We don't want it and the original pump seems to be fine. And what you say goes right along with the literally VOLUMES of information I have read on the web so far on the subject. LOL

I think down the road he is going to put on a FASS system or similar type of unit. But for now, the Fuel Module needs serious help just to get it back going.

The entry point for the supply and return line into the fuel module is gone! The metal "flange" on it has rusted away all together. The dealer says the only unit he can get has the in tank pump on it. See above for how I/all of us feel about that. What is even more irritating is that he says the original had a pump in it. I had not taken the module apart yet when he told me that so I just assumed it did. After a lot of reading here and elsewhere on the net, and after taking the module apart to see for myself, it most certainly did/does not have a pump in it. It really burns me up to have been mislead that way. I wasted a lot of time thinking I needed a pump and all.

I have looked at Draw Straw kits and think it would be pretty much a tailor made solution to my problem. Especially where the plastic fuel line ends are ruined too, the rubber hose and clamps in a draw straw kit would take care of that. But I can't seem to find a Draw Straw kit for a pre 98.5 model. And this truck it the 98 12 valve, which, if I understand things right, makes it just barely a pre 98.5. All the kits I have seen are for 98.5 and newer.

I saw a reference in this thread :

my fuel gauge dont work. how many gallons does it hold

(hope I did that right) In it a reference is made to being able to get a re-manufactured module for around $125.

Can anyone point toward a source for a reman unit? Also, can anyone point me toward a draw straw kit made for this year truck (pre 98.5)?

Thanks again. This forum is a fantastic community of people. I can't wait to get my Cummins Dodge and being to offer help myself.

-Rob
rbleth51 is offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 10-08-2007, 11:36 AM   #4 (permalink)
Dad
Diesel Head
 
Dad's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Indiana
Posts: 5,458
Thanks: 22
Thanked 295 Times in 119 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
My truck is a 98.5 model and I can tell you what I found when installing my FASS pump. While my truck is a 24v and has an electric lift pump, I am pretty certain everything back at the tank will be the same on your 98 12v.

At the tank where the fuel lines connect to the tank with the quick connectors, the stems if you will that came out of the tank to be connected to were made out of metal. The metal had corroded to the point the lines would not disconnect and the entire assembly that inserts into a rubber grommet through the tank opening was also rusted.

I purchased a Draw Straw kit from Vulcan Performance to replace the whole mess. The draw straw uses use the factory hole in the tank and grommet and has a new pickup line that extends down into the tank. Pretty sure this will fix your problem. You will need to do some fabricating on your fuel lines to get everything hooked back up.

Joe G. might weigh back in on the best way to do that.



<i>Draw Straw</i>
__________________
- Mine: '09 GMC Sierra LTX ECSB 2WD - Deletes, 4" Exhaust, AEM CAI, DP LMM 2.6 Stg 1.5 Drag Turbo, BD Manifold, Diamond Eye Downpipe, All Season Diesel Performance EGR/Grid Heater delete, PPE Race Valve, Edge Insight, '08 Hummer Wheels, DSP5 - EFI Live tuning by Mark Broviak @ Danville Performance.
Dad is offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 10-08-2007, 11:38 AM   #5 (permalink)
Diesel Head
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Eureka, CA
Posts: 2,081
Thanks: 4
Thanked 91 Times in 87 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Try asking the dealer for the part number for the fuel tank module that fits the '98 12 valve and the one that fits the '98 24 valve. If they are the same then the draw straw for the 98.5 will fit. The stock mechanical lift pump is the most reliable lift pump available so replacing it with a FASS is not a good idea in my opinion.

You should fill out your signature so we know what you are driving and what mods you have when you ask questions.

Email me for my 12 valve fuel supply system, how it works and how to fix it.
__________________
KDP tab fix info and fuel system article jgeorge1@suddenlink.net '95 2500 CC auto 4X4, 3.54, EGT, boost, fuel pressure, trans temp guages, PacBrake, TST #5, DTT VB, DTT triple disk TC, DTT billet flex plate, Cummins chrome kit.
Joe G. is offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 10-08-2007, 12:24 PM   #6 (permalink)
Supporting Vendor
 
Duluth Diesel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Superior, WI
Posts: 5,998
Thanks: 138
Thanked 203 Times in 155 Posts
iTrader Score: 1 reviews
As stated by others, you don't want an in-tank pump.

My friend Tom just had this identical issue and hassle with his daughter's '98 12 valve. He found a cure that worked for him. Not sure what he finally did, but I know he had lots of issues and threw a lot of parts at it before finally realizing what the problem and cure was. If you'd like to get Tom's contact info from me, send me a PM. I'm sure he'd be happy to talk to you about his experience.

-Chuck
__________________
Proud Cummins Forum Sponsor since 2006 - SUPPORT YOUR CUMMINS FORUM SPONSORS, WE SUPPORT YOU. THANK YOU!
Specializing in AMSOIL everything


Duluth Diesel is offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 10-09-2007, 02:23 AM   #7 (permalink)
Cummins Nut
 
fordcummins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Camby, IN
Posts: 328
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
FASS is a rip off...go with an aeromotive and regulator..drill the bottom of the tank and make your own lines. Push lok fittings do miracles...never worry about your fuel system again...and save some moolah...yea, that's right...I'm back!!!!
JJ
__________________
Tow rig: 93 dodge, 1st gen. IC.
Puller: Ford 3.0, rockwell, drop box, reverser. unknown motor
Smiths Bell and Clock = work
fordcummins is offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 10-10-2007, 08:24 PM   #8 (permalink)
AlGores worst nightmare
 
Racer9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Erie Pa
Posts: 2,010
Thanks: 0
Thanked 68 Times in 25 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
When I did my reman fuel module it had a plastic fittings where the old ones had rusted out. Simply run 3/8" diesel rated rubber fuel line up to the lift pump, and bypass the oem crap. The return line is 5/16".
The reman fuel module part# was R4789671, list price on 5/17/'06 was $124.37
Thats the complete unit inside the tank, simply pull yours to return for core, and install the new one.
__________________
'96 2500, CTD, 4X4 flatbed, Isspro gauges, Skyjacker D-25's, ThurenFab track bar, DSS, HD steering.
Motor; BHAF, #100 fuel plate, 5X.012 90hp injectors, Pacbrake 4kGSK, Loose starwheel. 306hp/743tq before injectors.
Exhaust; Schwitzer S300G, 4" downpipe, single 5" turnout stack.
Trans; Dunrite VB/TC, Intelligent Engineering billet input shaft, Burt Brown rebuild/upgrade.
Racer9 is offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 10-10-2007, 08:48 PM   #9 (permalink)
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 3
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer9 View Post
When I did my reman fuel module it had a plastic fittings where the old ones had rusted out. Simply run 3/8" diesel rated rubber fuel line up to the lift pump, and bypass the oem crap. The return line is 5/16".
The reman fuel module part# was R4789671, list price on 5/17/'06 was $124.37
Thats the complete unit inside the tank, simply pull yours to return for core, and install the new one.
That is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you so much. Where is the part number for? DC? Mopar?

I ended up going with a Draw Straw setup. It should be here from Vulcan tomorrow.

But I have a couple more people who are having the same problem. Once they found out I was doing one now they asked if I could do theirs soon. One has no interest in anything aftermarket and wants a reman if I can locate one.

Thanks again! And thanks to all who gave me advice in this thread. I am very glad I found this "community" and can't wait to be a full fledged member when I finally get my own CTD.

-Rob
rbleth51 is offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 10-12-2007, 05:39 PM   #10 (permalink)
AlGores worst nightmare
 
Racer9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Erie Pa
Posts: 2,010
Thanks: 0
Thanked 68 Times in 25 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by rbleth51 View Post
That is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you so much. Where is the part number for? DC? Mopar?

-Rob
That part# is from the Dodge dealer's parts dept.
__________________
'96 2500, CTD, 4X4 flatbed, Isspro gauges, Skyjacker D-25's, ThurenFab track bar, DSS, HD steering.
Motor; BHAF, #100 fuel plate, 5X.012 90hp injectors, Pacbrake 4kGSK, Loose starwheel. 306hp/743tq before injectors.
Exhaust; Schwitzer S300G, 4" downpipe, single 5" turnout stack.
Trans; Dunrite VB/TC, Intelligent Engineering billet input shaft, Burt Brown rebuild/upgrade.
Racer9 is offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 10-29-2007, 08:27 AM   #11 (permalink)
Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: albany,ny
Posts: 27
Thanks: 1
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader Score: 1 reviews
drawstaw and fitting

So how did the install go? im doing mine right now as we speak. p/u the drawstraw and the float for the gauge and have the bed raised, pulled out the fuel module and removed the old rusted lines from it, ready to install the drawstraw. my questions are, theres only 1 line commin off down into tank which is the fuel p/u, and just a hole with no line or threads for the return,not sure about this. also the fittings are much bigger on the top, how do I splice into my original lines to connect them. if I change both lines to front, how do I remove stock fittings and what size new fitting will I need to match up there.
__________________
98 QC blk 16* buffomatics auto trans/tq,no plate bhaf, ats 5000, 3gsk, afc, sdx 5x16,w/m, 6" chrome stacks, quick spool colt cam, auto meter triple pod gauges, drawstraw,primeloc,mack plug, 17" nittos/mamba wheels.
hightops76 is offline   Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Closed Thread

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:00 AM.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.

SEO by vBSEO 3.3.2