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Everyone knows about the steering box issues Dodges have. I wasn't going to pay $300 for $20 of metal and a bearing. This is what I did:
Machined a piece of hex bar for the correct bearing size (1"). Bored it and threaded it for 7/8 fine if I remember correctly. Bearing is mounted on 1.4 plate 6" x 9" appox. and sloted to allow for forward and rearward adjustment.
Tube is 2" x 2" x 1/8th 26" long. Welded to 3" x 3" x 1/4" angle slotted to allow for side to side adjustment.
Plate is welded flush with edge of angle and tube welded underneath.
Good job!
As long as you have a lathe to machine the nut/bearing the rest is easy.
I tried to buy the nut separately from two different manufacturers, both said no way.
__________________ Bill
'95 2500 4wd auto
'95 3500 5 speed heavy hauler
Stock for one day
heck, im sure if you even had to bring the nut to a machine shop to get the end knocked down, you would still come out of the deal saving some cash over buying one of those overpriced units!
Im wondering if a guy could do it without the nut...
Like maybe, flip the flange block 'upright' and use an extended race bearing with an eccentric locking collar to go right onto the threads/shaft. Only thing would be the potential for F'n up the threads...
__________________
2007 Laramie 3500, 4.5" RevTek, 35x12.5 ProComp MTRs, buckstop front+rear, bullydog TD, BD RFI intake, Lightforce 140s in the bumper, 240HIDs up top
1997 SLT 2500, 5.5" fabtech, 36x13.5 IROKs, 5x12s, s300, 4kgsk, inj pump FUBAR
Good job!
As long as you have a lathe to machine the nut/bearing the rest is easy.
I tried to buy the nut separately from two different manufacturers, both said no way.
Well all I can say is one manufacturer who will remain nameless and makes a GREAT product has one issue as I can see it with their product (nut). I had assumed the nut would be hardened steel and this was my one concern. I was later able to verify it is not in fact hardened steel. So if they were able stand behind their product with what I can assume is just hex bar machined to the correct dimentions I felt confident to do the same. In reality the machining on the nut is about an hours worth at most. A good machinist can do it in half an hour.
Now for a cheap like myself with access to the right tools it is super simple. For the rest of you $300 is not a bad deal if you have to get someone to machine the nut, slots and do the welding. Heck theirs comes powder coated real nice.
In response to the other post YOU NEED THE NUT! The nut holds your pitman arm on. If the pitman arm gets loose on the spines you have no steering whatsoever. Don't even think to exclude the nut. Even though the bearing I used (and you should too) has set screws to lock to the shaft it is not enough to hold the pitman arm on by itself. Don't want to come across as a but I don't want someone putting their life and others in danger by attempting this.
In response to the other post YOU NEED THE NUT! The nut holds your pitman arm on. If the pitman arm gets loose on the spines you have no steering whatsoever. Don't even think to exclude the nut. Even though the bearing I used (and you should too) has set screws to lock to the shaft it is not enough to hold the pitman arm on by itself. Don't want to come across as a but I don't want someone putting their life and others in danger by attempting this.
LOL, this isnt my first rodeo
You miss-read my post...
You KEEP the original nut (duh! we dont want the pitman arm coming off!) but you would use an extended race bearing w/ eccentric lock (to reduce risk of thread damage) to ride on the threads that protrude past the end of the nut. Thus eliminating the need to have a special nut machined...
Not sure how everyone elses setup looks like, but my pitman shaft has more than enough threads sticking out past the nut to be able to run a setup like this.
__________________
2007 Laramie 3500, 4.5" RevTek, 35x12.5 ProComp MTRs, buckstop front+rear, bullydog TD, BD RFI intake, Lightforce 140s in the bumper, 240HIDs up top
1997 SLT 2500, 5.5" fabtech, 36x13.5 IROKs, 5x12s, s300, 4kgsk, inj pump FUBAR
In order for the bearing to be of any use the shaft has to go through the center of the bearing. I get what you are saying (now) but the bearing is designed to accept misalignment and turn in the block. The one I salvaged is from a conveyor system and conveyor frames and shafts are never in 100% alignment. If you machined a cup to accept a standard bearing maybe that would work but then we are back to machining and you lose the misalignment properties of the one I used.
Trust me I looked at different options but why re-invent the wheel unless you end up with a BETTER wheel when you are done. Another option is to scrap the bracing and just have a plate from the swaybar mounts to the sector shaft.
I just installed a steering stabilizer on my 98 and I have to say, it was almost as if the truck came OEM with it...I can't believe the previous owner never put one on.
In order for the bearing to be of any use the shaft has to go through the center of the bearing. I get what you are saying (now) but the bearing is designed to accept misalignment and turn in the block. The one I salvaged is from a conveyor system and conveyor frames and shafts are never in 100% alignment. If you machined a cup to accept a standard bearing maybe that would work but then we are back to machining and you lose the misalignment properties of the one I used.
Trust me I looked at different options but why re-invent the wheel unless you end up with a BETTER wheel when you are done. Another option is to scrap the bracing and just have a plate from the swaybar mounts to the sector shaft.
I am also very aware of how a self aligning block and bearing works, im a jack of all trades (6 years in the bearing/PT/hydraulic field)
With the use of a non self-aligning housing/bearing, it would definitely work. Im just trying to think of a cheap/easy way that a guy could protect the threads from damage, that doesnt cost a mint
__________________
2007 Laramie 3500, 4.5" RevTek, 35x12.5 ProComp MTRs, buckstop front+rear, bullydog TD, BD RFI intake, Lightforce 140s in the bumper, 240HIDs up top
1997 SLT 2500, 5.5" fabtech, 36x13.5 IROKs, 5x12s, s300, 4kgsk, inj pump FUBAR
A guy could just use a taper bored bearing with a tapered adapter sleeve to make a good solid grip on the threads. no chance of thread damage and a good solid setup!
__________________
2007 Laramie 3500, 4.5" RevTek, 35x12.5 ProComp MTRs, buckstop front+rear, bullydog TD, BD RFI intake, Lightforce 140s in the bumper, 240HIDs up top
1997 SLT 2500, 5.5" fabtech, 36x13.5 IROKs, 5x12s, s300, 4kgsk, inj pump FUBAR
A guy could also just buy a stock sized nut, machine it round then install it on the extra threads.
A lot easier than duplicating a nut similar to what the bar manufacturers are using.
__________________ Bill
'95 2500 4wd auto
'95 3500 5 speed heavy hauler
Stock for one day
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HID headlights, XD DIESEL 20x10, 305/50 Falkens 
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