Now we need our trusty PVC and hammer. Press it the same way as described before, being gentle at first and using the allen wrench to tell which side is high.
Make sure the tabs and slots are lined up. I removed the sleeve to see how the tabs are lining up, be careful when removing the sleeve to make sure the struts and springs won't take off for flight.
It takes a lot of force to press it down, I removed the sleeve to see how it's lined up with the To remove this assembly you can use a 3 jaw puller like the ones used for wheel bearings, just place it above the gear teeth.
Be careful not to damage the teeth, I've heard of a few people damaging the teeth in another thread or forum.
You can place the sleeve back on now.
Now you can put the new bearing on the bottom of the countershaft, pry out the old bearing cup and put the new bearing cup in. My transmission was rebuilt just before I purchased the truck, after looking at the bearing on the countershaft and seeing it was in good condition I decided to leave it on. I plan on tearing the transmission apart in a year or two to analyze the wear and probably replace it then.
I haven't put the block under the shaft yet in this picture.
To put the countershaft in we need to first place a 1 inch board on the bearing cup so the shaft will sit out a little bit, this allows us to put the new bearing on on the countershaft, we need to put the bearing on with the shaft in the case. At this point we should be good at pressing stuff with our redneck presses. Press the bearing all the way down.
Once the new bearing is on we can take the block out from underneath, then rotate the shaft to make sure bearings are seated in the bearing cup on the bottom.
Grab the reverse gear idler, the shaft, the two identical washers and the bearing. You can kinda see the bearing in the picture.
Pull the shaft out, slip the idler in with the bearing and washers in like this:
Insert the shaft with the machined edge outside of the case.
Play with the idler's position until you can get the shaft to slide down with the machined side flush against the case. Also place the countershaft rear bearing cup on the bearing, you can see it's also added in this picture.
Put the countershaft plate on and line up the machined edge on the idler shaft to the edge of the plate, this keeps the shaft from rotating. Then bolt down the four bolts to the proper torque specs listed in the rebuild manual of your choice.
Spin the shaft to make sure the bearings are seated. Now we need to check the endplay, place your dial indicator on the shaft. You don't need to zero it out, you can just observe how much the dial moves from it's original position.
Place a long flat blade screw drive under the gear and wiggle it up and down, you need 0.002" to 0.006" of play, preferably closer to 0.002". If it has zero play then the bearing probably needs to be pressed on more. If there's too much play then we'll need to try a few different shims until we reach the desired play. The shim is just a spacer that is placed on top of the bearing, when you bolt down the plate over the shim the end play is reduced. Here is the plate being removed to put in the new shim. The mainshaft will have more pictures on this. Once we're close to .002" of play then we can move on.
We can now put the mainshaft in, we shouldn't have any issues placing it in the transmission. Now we should have something that looks like a transmission.
Now we can grab the clutch and synchronizer ring for third-fourth. Lubricate this with petroleum jelly.
Line up the four slots and pull back the sleeve of the synchronizer to hold the clutch and ring into place.
Grab the pancake bearing and lube it up with Vaseline.
Place it on the shaft.
Lube up the pocket bearing for the input shaft with Vaseline and either place it on the mainshaft or in the input shaft, it'll work either way. Here's the pocket bearing on the mainshaft.
And a picture of it in the input shaft. Put the inputshaft in like a puzzle piece, it might take a moment to get the input shaft to slide in.
Then take the input shaft cup/cover and put some RTV on the surface that mates against the case, let it dry for about 5 minutes and put it on the case.
There's a hole for lubrication to go through the cover, make sure it's facing up. Bolt the cover on with the four bolts and make sure RTV isn't blocking this hole.
Put the mainshaft bearing rear cup on with Vaseline.
Put the cover over the mainshaft bearing, you only need four of the five bolts in. Pull the dial indicator and magnetic stand out again and try to achieve an endplay of .002" to .006."
Try out a few different shims if you have too much endplay.
Put the cover back on and check, if we're in the ball park then we can move on. If not we need to keep trying until we are close to ".002."