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Here is a short and simple write-up for:
removing dashboard
replacing evaporator
replacing dashboard (upper part)
I recently bought a 1995 2500, and the a/c was leaking at the evaporator, plus throwing all the water into the passenger foot well.
All the repairs were done by myself, a 100% certified Shade Tree Mechanic.
If you are thinking about doing this, GO FOR IT!!
After 4 days of testing, the a/c system works perfectly!
Some previous owner took out the heater hoses over the exhaust manifold, so I'll see if I can re-acquire some of those in order to re-install the heater.
Here is a preview of when the HVAC box was cracked open in order to replace the evaporator:
And here is when the box was reinstalled, just before installing the dashboard assembly:
I hope this thread helps someone, as I had tons of questions before starting.
-- AJ
.
(( And to answer a common question::: There is NO WAY the evaporator can be removed without removing the entire dashboard assembly. ))
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1st Diesel 1995 Ram 2500 || 5.9CTD || 2wd long bed
Home-made KDP fix || 2x electric fans in front of condenser || tinkered fuel-plate and AFC || boost elbow ||
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Hit.It. For This Useful Post:
Remove the seats, as it will be three times easier to work in there.
If you have a center console, remove that as well.
If it has a screw holding it down, remove it.
TIP:
Something I always do when dis-assembling stuff, is to re-screw the nuts and screws when you take a piece out.
So if you remove three screws, then take the blower out, you should re-screw those three screws back on to the blower-less case.
Makes re-assembly much easier!
Here is a shot of the upper part of the dashboard, all broken in pieces:
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1st Diesel 1995 Ram 2500 || 5.9CTD || 2wd long bed
Home-made KDP fix || 2x electric fans in front of condenser || tinkered fuel-plate and AFC || boost elbow ||
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Unbolting Dashboard
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Because my dashboard was all broken up, I just removed the pieces.
If yours is in better condition, you should remove the 5 screws that secure it to the firewall.
Here are four (4) of the five (5) bolts highlighted.
All five hold the upper dashboard to the firewall.
The center one, and the ones at the ends (most left, most right) go through that upper dashboard panel, through dashboard's metal frame, and then to the firewall.
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The dashboard's metal frame has two side-bolts.
They permit the entire dash to "pivot" towards you.
Loosen them.
They are located at the bottom-sides of the dashboard;
one next to the parking brake release lever
the other next to the glove compartment box
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1st Diesel 1995 Ram 2500 || 5.9CTD || 2wd long bed
Home-made KDP fix || 2x electric fans in front of condenser || tinkered fuel-plate and AFC || boost elbow ||
In order to completely take the dashboard out of the vehicle, you need to clear the steering wheel.
The dashboard's steel frame has a metal "tie bar" just above the pedals.
Remove the three bolts it has at each side, and the dashboard now can clear out the steering wheel.
Next up, remove all the wiring plugs you have.
There are two of them on the passenger side under the dash.
On the driver's side, next to the pedals, there are various plugs.
One of those plugs is a big one that has a screw in the middle... just undo the screw, and pry it apart.
Finally, the steering column has various things you want to remove.
First, unbolt the two nuts that hold the steering column up.
That will enable the steering column to "swing down" a couple of inches.
WARNING FOR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS:::
When you unbolt these two nuts, and the column moves, it "shifts" the transmission.
If your truck is not level, and you don't have wheel chucks, it is quite possible that it will roll when you swing the column down!
CAREFUL! SAFETY FIRST!
Be careful with the 'selected gear indicator' mechanism as it is quite fragile.
Keep on removing stuff, and "clearing" the steering column.
There is one big tie-wrap you have to cut on the column.
I used two smaller ones later on to re-tie everything down.
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1st Diesel 1995 Ram 2500 || 5.9CTD || 2wd long bed
Home-made KDP fix || 2x electric fans in front of condenser || tinkered fuel-plate and AFC || boost elbow ||
Last edited by Hit.It.; 04-26-2010 at 11:20 PM.
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Hit.It. For This Useful Post:
i replaced my complete dash in my truck also not fun but not had you have a good right up Make sure you seal the air vents in your dash i did not i am looseing some ac but i get very scared when it starts popping during the day.
and before
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96 3500 12 valve 2wd isspro guages, BHAF, 4" mbrp,10 plate, nv4500 swap 300marines, 302000 miles need more wifes 04 totaled replaces w/06 lonestar edition 2500 cummins
Last edited by rollinsmoke05; 04-26-2010 at 11:31 PM.
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to rollinsmoke05 For This Useful Post:
The plastic box under the dashboard, right in the middle of the center tunnel, is a "Airbag sensor box" of some sorts.
It has two electrical connections that can be removed by unbolting the unit.
Four screws on the floor, and it is out.
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1st Diesel 1995 Ram 2500 || 5.9CTD || 2wd long bed
Home-made KDP fix || 2x electric fans in front of condenser || tinkered fuel-plate and AFC || boost elbow ||
Last edited by Hit.It.; 04-27-2010 at 01:16 AM.
The Following User Says Thank You to Hit.It. For This Useful Post:
Up until this point, it was cool to be a mechanical hermit and keep away from fellow humans.
Yet for swinging out the dashboard assembly, another person is a 99% must.
--->> Review all your electrical connections to make sure they are done
next to the pedals
three under/behind the glove box
radio antenna cable
airbag sensor box
--->> Disconnect the vacuum connection to the dash (it is a "plug" that has four vacuum lines).
--->> Remove the heater blend door's actuation cable.
That cable goes from the door, to the temperature knob on the control panel.
Once you are sure everything is good to go, tilt the dashboard forward, and pull it up by the corners.
You can grab it right at the corners where it bolts to the firewall.
I found it easiest to have one person on one side of the car, and yourself at the other side.
Then just lift the dashboard assembly up, and walk to the other side across the cabin.
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1st Diesel 1995 Ram 2500 || 5.9CTD || 2wd long bed
Home-made KDP fix || 2x electric fans in front of condenser || tinkered fuel-plate and AFC || boost elbow ||
Last edited by Hit.It.; 04-27-2010 at 08:03 AM.
The Following User Says Thank You to Hit.It. For This Useful Post:
These pictures are here to help other members with reference for a removed dashboard assembly for a 1995 Dodge Ram 2500 Pickup Truck.
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1st Diesel 1995 Ram 2500 || 5.9CTD || 2wd long bed
Home-made KDP fix || 2x electric fans in front of condenser || tinkered fuel-plate and AFC || boost elbow ||
Last edited by Hit.It.; 04-27-2010 at 01:13 AM.
The Following User Says Thank You to Hit.It. For This Useful Post:
These pictures are here to help other members with reference for a removed dashboard assembly for a 1995 Dodge Ram 2500 Pickup Truck.
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__________________
1st Diesel 1995 Ram 2500 || 5.9CTD || 2wd long bed
Home-made KDP fix || 2x electric fans in front of condenser || tinkered fuel-plate and AFC || boost elbow ||
The Following User Says Thank You to Hit.It. For This Useful Post:
This is all the stuff you should remove to make your life easier:::
-- Air Box + Filter + Intake Elbow
-- Engine ECU
-- a bracket that holds the ECU and the a/c evaporator bottle
It isn't shown in the picture, yet it is good practice to cover your intake with something (proper cover, or clean rag) to prevent stuff from falling in.
In order to remove the HVAC Box, there are a total of six nuts to remove.
In this next picture, all the nuts to be removed on the engine bay side are highlighted - a total of four (4) on engine-bay side.
Notice that the upper part of the picture correlates to the lower part.
It is the same HVAC Box, from the same angle.
Now there are two (2) remaining nuts on the cabin side.
Those are highlighted in the following picture:
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1st Diesel 1995 Ram 2500 || 5.9CTD || 2wd long bed
Home-made KDP fix || 2x electric fans in front of condenser || tinkered fuel-plate and AFC || boost elbow ||
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