out of fuel

[dieseltruckdriver]

How do i get my 24 valve dodge diesel restsrted when I run out of fuel?

[TrueValue Truck]

Originally Posted by dieseltruckdriver

How do i get my 24 valve dodge diesel restsrted when I run out of fuel?

It should fire....keep bumping the starter to prime it. I forgot to fill my fuel filter canister last time I changed it, and it died after starting , but after a few cranks , it fired up.
As long as you don't have air in the injector lines,you shouldn't have to crack them I wouldn't think.

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Caldwellfire.com

06 3500 SRW MC ,Smarty REVO,X2 Race stack, Commander,CFM, Monster Air COI,AFE Torque tube,FASS 150 HPFP LP,Muffler delete,Tipple disc Converter and VB ,ProComp 2" leveling kit,Timbren's,Reese Class V Tow Beast

Ohio Coal Rollers

Cumminsforum.com

[BBRam]

Moved to the 911 forum.

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03-3500, DRW, QC, 4x4, DTT Trans, Mag-Hytec, R700 BD Twins, BD IC Boots, BD Billet Flexplate, Lockup Switch, SMARTY TNT-R BETA/TS MP-8, Eliminator Fuel System, Floor It Stage 3 CP3 & Rail Cap, BIG Stix's by FTE, ARP Head Stud's, Springs, Fluidampr, ATS ARC-FLOW, AFE, Boost, Drive Pressure, Pyro, Fuel Pressure, Tran's Temp, Rail Pressure Gauge, GDP Ladder Bars, GrandRock 7" Miters. Old #'s (R/T .021, 60' 1.76, 1/4 ET 13.14 @ 100.45 mph)

[StRokEThiS!]

put more fuel in it....

[bart9505]

take the filter off and refill it, or hold the pedal to the floor and crank it, rest it, crank it, rest it, crank it, rest it, crank it, rest it, crank it, rest it, crank it, rest it, crank it, rest it, crank it............. and hope your battery survives. if it's very warm out, the rest is pretty long or you will smoke a starter.
Takes awhile, but you just need to run all the air through the injectors.

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New: 2008 black MegaCab, 6.7, 4x4, auto, stnd gears, no mods, only 9k miles so far
Old: 1997 extended 5.9, 4x4, 5sp, 150k miles, mostly stock but added edelbrock shocks

[Silver00]

If you ran it completely out of fuel you most likely will have to get someone to turn the truck over while you crack an injector line loose at the head. Usually it will only take one or two lines bled to get truck to start then truck will run rough for just a second while the air is getting out of system. Been there done that! Have had a faulty guage for some time now!

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2000 3/4 ton 2wd automatic with amsoil air filter, hypertech programmer and PTC multi disc torque conv. 185,000 and still gettin it done

[tramp_line_ape]

like stated above. i know my '99 the only way to get it started was by cracking injector lines, 2 wouldn't do it for me, but three was the magic number

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07 6.7 cummins, 6 speed, one-ton, electric blue, gauges, afe intake, MP-8/Superchip, 4" BADP TB, egr delete, edge w/attitude
Give him books and give him books, and all he does is eat the pages
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[mrclean]

Originally Posted by dieseltruckdriver

How do i get my 24 valve dodge diesel restsrted when I run out of fuel?

First, add fuel to the tank. Crack open the banjo fitting on the fuel inlet of the inj pump. Bump the starter(don't try to start the engine, just bump it), the lift pump will run about 25 seconds(you may have to repeat this a couple of times). When fuel flows at the inlet, tighten it down. Attempt to start the engine. It may not fire. If not, crack open #1 and #2 injector lines at the cyl head. Bump the starter again until fuel flows from one or both lines. Close 'em up and start the engine. It will likely idle funny and sound like a coffee can full of rocks, but it'll clear up in a minute or two. HTH

[lake huron cummins]

Yes, three injector lines is the magic number. Crack injector lines #1, #3, and #5 since those are the easiest to get a 3/4 wrench on. put the go pedal on the floor and crank it for a about 10 seconds at a time. Do this a couple of times since you have a bunch of air in there. Tighten the lines down, and start cranking again with the pedal on the floor. I should fire or even start.

Next time you do a filter change fill the canister with fuel then tighten it down. When you go to start it, again hold the pedal to the floor. It will start, the rpm's will fall, but since you have the pedal to the floor it will just sputter then come back to life.

Keep us posted on how you make out.

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99 2500 q/c 4x4, 4" Silverline exhaust, Edge Comp Hot Unlock, 150hp sticks, HTT 62/71/13, 150 GPH FASS, Suncoast triple disc tc & vb, Mag-Hytec dbl deep pan, AFE Stage 2, 06 17" w/265 Nitto Terra Grapplers, A-Meter Ultra Lite pyro, boost, trans gauge.

[1000EE-Monarch]

OK, here's my method. Bump the starter, and leave the key in the "run" position. Take the cap of the tire-fitting ontop of the banjo fitting on side of the injection pump. Push the pin in the center and listen for the air escaping. After a minute or two the electric lift pump will shut off, you'll hear it. Return the key to off, then repeat above procedure until fuel comes out of the tire fitting.

Next, get a 3/4" wrench and loosen three of the injection line fittings on the head. Crank for 20 seconds, let it rest, give it 20 more. Re-tighten the injection line fittings. Crank until it starts, and let it run till it clears up. Don't put your foot on the pedal until the idle clears up.

I have re-started a 12v without cracking injection lines, but it's hard on the starter. I DON'T think a 24v will start without loosening at least three injection lines.

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Alex K.
'01 3500 QC 4x4 NV5600 HO 245HP-stock for now. BHAF, no silencer ring.
WANTED: '98 12v 3500 QC 4x4 5spd 3.55 gears

[1000EE-Monarch]

> When you go to start it, again hold the pedal to the floor. It will start, the rpm's will
> fall, but since you have the pedal to the floor it will just sputter then come back to life.

I don't think that would be good for a VP44.

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Alex K.
'01 3500 QC 4x4 NV5600 HO 245HP-stock for now. BHAF, no silencer ring.
WANTED: '98 12v 3500 QC 4x4 5spd 3.55 gears