pulling off rotors

[Cummins6speed]

My buddy has a 99 QC short bed and got some new front rotors for his truck but we can't figure out for the life of us how to remove them. Anybody know?

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My truck: 06 5.9 G56 4x4 Quad Cab Short Bed Patriot Blue. Smarty TNT, Valair 3600DD, DiPricol's, Home made intake w/ amsoil filter, Straight Piped w/ 7" tip, silencer ring MIA, glove box sticker MIA

IBEW 551

[fordkiller43]

You already get the calipers pulled off or no?

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'02 2500 4X4 auto; SC VB, Drag Comp, FBD 100's sticks, AFE stg II, Silencer ring MIA, J hook, Banks High Ram, Carter pusher, Triple Pillar w/ Boost, Pyro, and FP gauges, MBRP 5" str8 pipe, 4.5" skyjacker, DSS bar, 35" Bighorns, Frontier bumper... s300 66/14 on its way! Coaltrain trans in the making

[Cummins6speed]

yeah that was no problem

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My truck: 06 5.9 G56 4x4 Quad Cab Short Bed Patriot Blue. Smarty TNT, Valair 3600DD, DiPricol's, Home made intake w/ amsoil filter, Straight Piped w/ 7" tip, silencer ring MIA, glove box sticker MIA

IBEW 551

[123buster]

ok make sure the little factory retainers are gone they go over i think about two or three of the wheel studs to hold the rotor on during assymbly then get a hammer and have at it to break the rust free

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2003 High output CTD, 6 speed, 4x4, QC, short bed white, weather guard tool box , silencer ring mia, 5 inch exhaust, Airdog 150, Smarty, dipricol optix guages (pyro, fuel, boost), body guard front & rear replacements, and loving it.

[Big Rich 01]

if you have an air chisel with a flat blunt end on it, give it a couple good wacks. when your done put it all back together with some anti-seaze

[turbo_baer]

second the BFH ! had to hammer on mine pretty good to get it off.

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2002 5.9L 2500 QC Longbed 4x4 Auto New VP44, TCS converter & VB, FASS 150/150, Draw Straw II, Smarty,Quadzilla Xzillaraider, 275rv's, MBRP 5", STG2 BB, Autometer Gagues
1990 GT80R Turbo Mustang Coupe

[mrclean]

Originally Posted by turbo_baer

second the BFH ! had to hammer on mine pretty good to get it off.

They're working on a '99......the rotors won't come off that way. The entire unit bearing assembly must come off, and the lug studs driven/pressed out. Real PITA. HTH

[chevy791979]

4 Or 2 Wheel Drive? The 4x4 Rotors Are A Hat Style Rotor. Bfh And Some Swinging It Will Come Off. Try Some Pentrating Oil On All The Stud Holes And The Center Hub Hole Let It Set Open A Cold Beer And Smack The Ever Living Hell Out Of It.

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95 12v one ton 5 spd. custom 5x14 injectors.66mm hx50 timing 17.5. 4k gv springs, marine head gasket, 12 mm studs 191 dv's. single 7 in stack.
421/ 893 ON OLD TUNE UP. guages of corse. POWER PARTS ENGINEERING DD clutch. FOR SALE.

[Cummins6speed]

Its a 4x4. We beat the living hell out of it with a mallet and we tried using a hub puller and they wouldn't budge. Are you guys sure they come off?

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My truck: 06 5.9 G56 4x4 Quad Cab Short Bed Patriot Blue. Smarty TNT, Valair 3600DD, DiPricol's, Home made intake w/ amsoil filter, Straight Piped w/ 7" tip, silencer ring MIA, glove box sticker MIA

IBEW 551

[kinggrantz]

Ram (8–Stud Rotor)
Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the wheel.
Remove the hub extension.
Remove the brake caliper assembly.
Remove the axle nut cotter pin. Remove the axle nut.
Disconnect the ABS wheel speed sensor wire from under the hood. Remove the sensor wire from the frame and steering knuckle, if equipped.
Back off the hub/bearing mounting bolts 1/4 inch each. Then tap the bolts with a hammer to loosen the hub/bearing mounting bolts.
Remove the bolts and remove the hub/bearing assembly.
Installation is the reverse of removal. Observe all tightening torques as found in the specifications charts. Use a new cotter pin and apply anti–seize compound to the axle splines.

Rotor and hub/bearing—Ram with 8–Stud Rotor
INSPECTION


Rotor surface should be smooth and featureless. Scoring, ripples, scratches, etc., should be removed. The final finish should be a non–directional crosshatch pattern.
Minimum acceptable thickness is stamped on the rotor hub. Measurement should be taken after refinishing.
Check run–out and compare with the spec. I hope this helps.

[mrclean]

What Kinggrantz said above, with a couple of add-ons. You may want to remove the axle nut while the truck is still on the ground. Hose it down with PB Blaster or equivalent, as it's on there at a ridiculous amount of torque, and probably seized. And as for the unit bearing bolts, you may be able to remove the unit bearing by hammering on the bolts, but it's unlikely. If you can't, use a socket and extension braced against the coil spring mount, turn on the engine and use the power steering as a press. Alternate on the bolts side-to-side so the bearing will come out evenly. I've taken these bearings out using several different methods, but this one works every time. After the assembly is off the truck, you can press out the lug studs(or use a hammer and a brass drift) to R&R the rotor. HTH

[bart9505]

I beat the hell out of mine trying to get them off of the '97, and gave up. Later,I took them to Les Schwab. They just used a bigger hammer, and really beat the hell out of them. The brake mud shields looked like a train ran over them, and they just bent them back to sorta the original shape and put them back on. too bad mrclean didn't work for them.
Don't hit the rotors too hard, it's the bearing housing that is stuck in the axle, and the rotor flexes too much. I just put the rotors back on the shelf, put in new pads, and ran it 15k more miles until the ball joints went out, and then took it to Schwab.

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New: 2008 black MegaCab, 6.7, 4x4, auto, stnd gears, no mods, only 9k miles so far
Old: 1997 extended 5.9, 4x4, 5sp, 150k miles, mostly stock but added edelbrock shocks