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Welcome to the Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum, the fastest growing Dodge Diesel Community on the internet. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us |
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| 911 Urgent Situations Emergency Forum , Need Help Fast ? Post Here ! Urgent Topics Only...NO ADVERTISING |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Cummins Fan
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bleeding after replacing new m.s. & brake booster
Just got done with putting all new brakes, rotors, wheel cyl.,pads and shoes,calipers, brake booster, and master cyl. Starting on the bleeding process and was wandering how to start. everything is new concerning the brake sys. Could one of you all give a run down of the do's and donts of this process. My boys has a mx race tonight so I think could be put in the 911 urgent file ( esp. when wife gets home from work and sees nothing done )
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98.5 q-cab 4wd shortbed ,bhaf, edge ultra att, edge 150hp inj. nozzles, htb2 62/14 turbo,air dog 150, dtt noise filter. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Smokin'
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Did you properly bleed the new master cylinder before installing it? If so, I would start by letting it gravity bleed. Open all 4 bleeders and let it sit for awhile to see if it starts to drip. If one starts to drip, close it and see if the others start.
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'03 Black 2500 QC LB 4x4, H.O. 6 speed BHAF, 2" lift, not leveled, black H2's, 35" BFG MT's, B&W turnover, Juice w/ Attitude, 5" str8 pipe, BD lift pump, spin on fuel filters
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#3 (permalink) |
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Diesel Head
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Well, the first and probably most important thing to do is bench bleed the Master cylinder. If you take two stub lines and route them back into the top of the reservoir and pump until your heart is content, this is how to bench bleed. This should be done even before installation into the truck as getting the air out of the MC is quite a mofo because of the small port holes to intake fluid into the MC bore. We were always taught to start bleeding the brakes with the wheel furthest from the MC as this will get a majority of the air out and make things easier to do the rest of the wheels. Once you do that you should be more or less on your way to having a kickass brake system.
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2003 Dodge Ram 2500 4X4, Banks Big Hoss Bundle, K&N FIPK, 5" Turbo back Expand-It exhaust, Goerend Full Built Trans, Smarty REVO, DIY Fuel Control Actuator Mod, FASS 150/150 and custom big line kit.ABS Brake Specialist-You've got questions, I've got answers. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Diesel Head
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The abs system will purge itself while you do the base brake bleed. It would be a good idea to find a dirt road or some place where you could activate the ABS 3 or 4 times and then rebleed the system to ensure all air has been removed.
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2003 Dodge Ram 2500 4X4, Banks Big Hoss Bundle, K&N FIPK, 5" Turbo back Expand-It exhaust, Goerend Full Built Trans, Smarty REVO, DIY Fuel Control Actuator Mod, FASS 150/150 and custom big line kit.ABS Brake Specialist-You've got questions, I've got answers. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Cummins Fan
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What the heck is going on here!!! Can get good brake pressure with truck off, have good power str. with it running, bench bled m.s. until blue in face bled brakes with truck off with all fluid and no air. took wheel hubs off and checked for leaks and adjustment. Checked lines from front to back. With all that, no brakes when truck is running. What am I doing wrong!?!?
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98.5 q-cab 4wd shortbed ,bhaf, edge ultra att, edge 150hp inj. nozzles, htb2 62/14 turbo,air dog 150, dtt noise filter. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Diesel Head
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I think there are two lines going to a power boost system on your truck. I don't know for sure, if it would even be possible to swap them, but do you have the pressure going in the return side and the return going to the pressure side of the booster? or vice versa at the pump? I thought about that for a while the other night when you called and that was really all that I could think of that would suck the pedal to the ground and keep it there like you were saying. Other than that I am totally out of ideas. It has to be something wrong with the booster as you did say that you have good pedal with it off.
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2003 Dodge Ram 2500 4X4, Banks Big Hoss Bundle, K&N FIPK, 5" Turbo back Expand-It exhaust, Goerend Full Built Trans, Smarty REVO, DIY Fuel Control Actuator Mod, FASS 150/150 and custom big line kit.ABS Brake Specialist-You've got questions, I've got answers. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Cummins Fanatic
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Did this problem start befor you did your breake job?
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:06 5.9 3500 sg.rear wh. 6 speed 4 dr LB 4x4 red edge juice w/A2 HOT 1995 2500 4x4 5.9l auto, Head studs,60#v.s.,head ported. super b special,BD exh. man. ,75Hp. ddp inj, 4000 GSK,larger holders and lazer cut DV, 18.5* timming ,home ground 100 plate. |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Diesel Head
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Ok I didn't get that part of it. Well, the only thing you haven't replaced yet is the hydraboost pump. Maybe a check valve or pressure regulator inside that is bad...
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2003 Dodge Ram 2500 4X4, Banks Big Hoss Bundle, K&N FIPK, 5" Turbo back Expand-It exhaust, Goerend Full Built Trans, Smarty REVO, DIY Fuel Control Actuator Mod, FASS 150/150 and custom big line kit.ABS Brake Specialist-You've got questions, I've got answers. |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Cummins Fan
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Quote:
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98.5 q-cab 4wd shortbed ,bhaf, edge ultra att, edge 150hp inj. nozzles, htb2 62/14 turbo,air dog 150, dtt noise filter. |
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