Need help diagnosing no run on a 24V - Page 2

Racer9 · 02-04-2007, 04:07 PM

Get some 3/8" rubber fuel line and bypass the oem lines from the tank to the LP completely. You need about 11' to do it. If you can't get diesel rated, don't worry, it'll be OK for a while. They can replace it later.
Also check the short 5/8" one from the heater to the lp.

__________________

'96 CTD, 4X4 flatbed, Isspro gauges, Skyjacker D-25's, ThurenFab track bar, lockRite.

Motor; BHAF, #100 fuel plate, Shimmed gov springs, Loose starwheel.

Exhaust; 16cm housing, 4" downpipe, 5" turnout stacks.

Trans; Dunrite VB/TC, Intelligent Engineering billet input shaft, Burt Brown rebuild/upgrade.

***Tom05*** · 02-04-2007, 04:12 PM

Well, that tells me that it is one of three things. It could be the rubber lines are full of holes (not real likely since it just up and quit), or the suction line rusted and cracked or the fuel tank has crap in it and plugging the pick-up screen. Did it do it after the fuel level was down lower than the gauge normally goes? It could be a hole in the pick-up line in the tank or on the top of the tank, or maybe there is some crap plugging the screen.
Tom

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www.midwestdieselconnection.com

***gstanfield*** · 02-04-2007, 04:27 PM

He filled the truck with fuel and drove home. Then the next morning it wouldn't start. He changed the filter and it started, but went dead shortly after. Then we filled the fuel bowl again and it ran for a few minutes and died. It sounds to me like a fuel tank issue, but I wasn't sure.

Isn't there an electric pump in the tank on these, or is that only on the gas engine trucks?

Also, Racer9, why would you bypass the OEM stell lines? It runs steel all but the last 18 inches or so, wouldn't you just replace the OEm rubber lines?

I think I'll tell him to drop the tank and see what the pickup in there looks like.

More ideas? Sorry I don't have better info.

George

__________________
1997 2500 ext cab long bed 4x4 Boost control elbow, KDP tabbed, silncer ring MIA, Z-series gauges, 47RE built w/valve body & converter, #100 plate.

***Tom05*** · 02-04-2007, 04:54 PM

No George, there is not a pump in the tank. One reason to by-pass the steel lines is for the reason I mentioned. Far as dropping the tank, especially if it is full, I have been told that it is easier and quicker to unbolt the left side of the bed and loosen the right side bolts and lift the bed. If you do that, please put some sort of blocking under the box so you don't become a statistic.
Tom

__________________
www.midwestdieselconnection.com

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02-04-2007, 04:07 PM	#13 (permalink)
Racer9 AlGores worst nightmare Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Erie Pa Posts: 1,262 Racer9's Truck Pics	Get some 3/8" rubber fuel line and bypass the oem lines from the tank to the LP completely. You need about 11' to do it. If you can't get diesel rated, don't worry, it'll be OK for a while. They can replace it later. Also check the short 5/8" one from the heater to the lp. __________________ '96 CTD, 4X4 flatbed, Isspro gauges, Skyjacker D-25's, ThurenFab track bar, lockRite. Motor; BHAF, #100 fuel plate, Shimmed gov springs, Loose starwheel. Exhaust; 16cm housing, 4" downpipe, 5" turnout stacks. Trans; Dunrite VB/TC, Intelligent Engineering billet input shaft, Burt Brown rebuild/upgrade.

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02-04-2007, 04:12 PM	#14 (permalink)
*Tom05* Diesel Head Join Date: Dec 2005 Posts: 4,442 Tom05's Truck Pics	Well, that tells me that it is one of three things. It could be the rubber lines are full of holes (not real likely since it just up and quit), or the suction line rusted and cracked or the fuel tank has crap in it and plugging the pick-up screen. Did it do it after the fuel level was down lower than the gauge normally goes? It could be a hole in the pick-up line in the tank or on the top of the tank, or maybe there is some crap plugging the screen. Tom __________________ www.midwestdieselconnection.com

02-04-2007, 04:27 PM	#15 (permalink)
*gstanfield* Moderator Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Rolling Hills, WY Posts: 800 gstanfield's Truck Pics	He filled the truck with fuel and drove home. Then the next morning it wouldn't start. He changed the filter and it started, but went dead shortly after. Then we filled the fuel bowl again and it ran for a few minutes and died. It sounds to me like a fuel tank issue, but I wasn't sure. Isn't there an electric pump in the tank on these, or is that only on the gas engine trucks? Also, Racer9, why would you bypass the OEM stell lines? It runs steel all but the last 18 inches or so, wouldn't you just replace the OEm rubber lines? I think I'll tell him to drop the tank and see what the pickup in there looks like. More ideas? Sorry I don't have better info. George __________________ 1997 2500 ext cab long bed 4x4 Boost control elbow, KDP tabbed, silncer ring MIA, Z-series gauges, 47RE built w/valve body & converter, #100 plate.

02-04-2007, 04:54 PM	#16 (permalink)
*Tom05* Diesel Head Join Date: Dec 2005 Posts: 4,442 Tom05's Truck Pics	No George, there is not a pump in the tank. One reason to by-pass the steel lines is for the reason I mentioned. Far as dropping the tank, especially if it is full, I have been told that it is easier and quicker to unbolt the left side of the bed and loosen the right side bolts and lift the bed. If you do that, please put some sort of blocking under the box so you don't become a statistic. Tom __________________ www.midwestdieselconnection.com