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Old 11-20-2006, 09:01 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Angry 47 rh transmission failure

Not having much luck with transmissions, in oct 05 I broke down and purchased an aftermarket rebuild rather than having my original one rebuilt AGAIN. it has been just over a year and the new one has failed. I was not too worried about it as it was under warranty, until this morning, when I found out that the company I bought it from went out of business. so now, not having the 4000 to spend again, I took the transmission apart, to find out that it has nothing that it was supposed to have and is nothing more than a basic rebuild with a billet converter. Evidently the best we can guess, (checked with some people locally) something was wrong with the clearances in the front section (the overdrive section is all OK) All the thrust washers are wasted, both planetaries in the front section are junk, the sun shell is bent where it sits between the two planetary gears as well. Enough with the problems, I intend to put it back together myself with all new parts and I have a couple of questions. I used to have a valve body (aftermarket) in a previous transmission that allowed me to lock the converter in all 4 gears (switch on dash) the one I have now behaves as stock. What do I have to do to the valve body to be able to get lockup in all gears? Is there any way to get cooler oil flow when the converter is unlocked, as I understand, the cooler flow only runs when the converter is locked up? I do most repairs / upgrades with my truck myself and have rebuilt automatics before, just not the 47rh and under these power demands. any suggestions, hints would be appreciated, need to have her back on the road by wednesday night, parts are on the way.

Thanks for any help in advance!
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Old 11-20-2006, 09:45 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The converter is locked via a solenoid switch that is controlled by the valve body. When you have it out, you will find the wire and all you have to do is install your switch to trigger the clutch when you wish. I believe that DTT sells an inexpensive kit with a switch for this purpose.

As far as the oil cooler, the oil circulates through the cooler lines any time the front pump is working, and that is anytime the engine is running.

The clearance problems you describe are fairly common, and generally the reason most planetaries fail. Since you have been in an automatic before, you will know how to use a dial indicator and spacers to set up the end space, and to ignore OEM rebuild instructions as being insufficient. www.txchange.com has both the better cages, steels, and frictions, as well as decent converters and other hard parts to do the job inexpensively and properly. They also have a pretty decent manual that they generally toss into their better rebuild kits.
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Old 11-20-2006, 10:13 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Another thing you can do is to get ahold of Goerends Brothers. www.gbtransmissions.com Dave will be able to help you get just what you need and give you lots of help.
Tom
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Old 11-21-2006, 01:34 AM   #4 (permalink)
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47rh

Thanks for the information. As far as the switch for the converter lockup, I already ahve that installed, but the trans will not lock up in 1st or 2nd, had that problem before with a stock valve body, then purchased an aftermarket and was able to acheive 1st and 2nd lock. Now with the current valve body, it is back to the stock configuration, evidently there is some valve that redirects the pressure away from the TCC solenoid whenever the trans is in 1st and 2nd, hopefully I can find the fix before I put it back together tomorrow.

Thanks again for the information
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