VE rebuild with pics Look inside

[pulltilbroke]

Go over to 1stgen.org and ask KTA he'll know where to get one

__________________
90 n/ic,stock sticks,366 spring,asaintake,5turns,DennyTstgII,Stans4"w single stack,2nd gen I/C,HTTstgIV16 ,nv4500,dana80

[1stGen545]

Sorry I haven't done it yet this is the first time I have been on in 5 Days and it will only be for a min and these things don't right them selves. I got very busy after the 1st post. Sorry to get every ones hopes up but i will do It as soon as I can.

__________________
92 W350 ,4X4, NV4500 (Had Allison 545) pump maxed, and DennyT Puller pin HX35/40-14cm, 5" turbo back exhaust, 96 ex-cab 2500 4X4, 5spd,to many mods to list, 08 Inferno Red QC, SB, 2500, 4X4, 6.7, 68RFE 6spd auto, EDGE ATTITUDE, 305 BFG KM II's More to come

[Begle1]

You get it done and it's up to snuff and I'd want to have your PayPal account so I could give you a few dollars...

We need a detailed VE rebuild guide that isn't ripped off from a German VW 4-cylinder forum.

__________________
110' foot aluminum-framed helium dirigible with 25' living quarters, two 400 HP 12 valves, satellite television and a refrigerator.

[Paccool]

Cool! This will probably be one for the tech section.:thumbsup

__________________
Stan

93 D250, PDR Twins HX35&HT3B, 60+# boost,PDR stage 2 head w/o-rings, PDR Cam, modified VE Pump, piston style lift pump, modified 5" intake w/AFE, ATS ported manifold,DTT 89% converter, 4" RIP exhaust, modified tranny, EGT/boost/tranny/tach gauges, TPS removed, a little chrome under the hood. Mag-Hitec tranny and diff. covers. Rear sway bar. Line-x bed liner, after market seats. Front end rebuilt with new springs - 2 " taller now. Single stage Water/Meth system installed. Oversized intercooler w/3" IC lines.

05 Chevy 2500 HD, Duramax W/Allison, 17" Hummer wheels w/285-70-17 BFG's, modified air box, ported turbo mouthpiece. Predator programmer.

[1stGen545]

Well here goes.

This is not a FULL rebuild just enough to help out 99% of people that will get into there own pumps and need to re seal it and do some pump mods.

I am going to start with the pump removed. If You cant get the pump off You don't need to get inside it.

Well here is one thing you need to loosen the bolt with the small tab and remove the tab and snug up the bolt to lock the pump from spinning. Don't over do it it only has to be snug.



Well here the nasty thing is.







Here you can see the full fuel screw and lock nut on the bottom coming out of the back Just above it is the fuel return, you can also see the Idle adjustment screw and jam nut on the side of the pump. You can also see the Shut Down solenoid that is prone to failure. It can be removed and the spring and plunger taken out the reinstalled and use the manual shut down lever on the side of the pump. Above the fuel return is the Vent for the aneroid.



Lets start with the easy things remove the Allen head from the top of the throttle shaft and mark or note the position so that it can be indexed correctly when put back.




Remove the fuel pin and spring

__________________
92 W350 ,4X4, NV4500 (Had Allison 545) pump maxed, and DennyT Puller pin HX35/40-14cm, 5" turbo back exhaust, 96 ex-cab 2500 4X4, 5spd,to many mods to list, 08 Inferno Red QC, SB, 2500, 4X4, 6.7, 68RFE 6spd auto, EDGE ATTITUDE, 305 BFG KM II's More to come

[1stGen545]

10 pic limmet

Then remove the 4 bolts that holt the top on the pump.



Then slowly remove the top and watch for the spring under the top. It will not just fly out. This is your govener spring and it is attached to the throtle shaft and should be disconected so that you can remove the top.





Then remove it from the "Top Hat" and remove all of it from the pump.



You can now push the throttle rod out of the top and replace the O-ring.



This is the lever that many people grind to get even more fuel it is the other end of the lever that rides on the fuel pin. The lever beside it is the manual Kill lever.



remove the nut but hold pressure on the lever so that it dose not slip. Mark how the Kill lever indexes to the shaft and then remove the lever, spring and washer. then you can you will see the o-ring and can replace it.

__________________
92 W350 ,4X4, NV4500 (Had Allison 545) pump maxed, and DennyT Puller pin HX35/40-14cm, 5" turbo back exhaust, 96 ex-cab 2500 4X4, 5spd,to many mods to list, 08 Inferno Red QC, SB, 2500, 4X4, 6.7, 68RFE 6spd auto, EDGE ATTITUDE, 305 BFG KM II's More to come

[1stGen545]

You HAVE to keep the rollers and pins and thrust washers together.

Here you can see were they ride. The KSB pushes the black ring and rotates the rollers and advances your Timing buy making the cam plate ride up on the rollers and stroke the piston sooner in the rotation that pops the injector a few * sooner before TDC.







Now lets take the Head apart

This is how the piston fits in the head and builds the pressure. It also rotates like a distributor and delivers the fuel to the correct cylinder. It strokes every time the the cam plate rides up on the rollers.



You can remove the Shut down solenoid and replace the o-ring on the tip.



Then you can remove the DV's. YOU MUST KEEP ALL THE PARTS TOGETHER

__________________
92 W350 ,4X4, NV4500 (Had Allison 545) pump maxed, and DennyT Puller pin HX35/40-14cm, 5" turbo back exhaust, 96 ex-cab 2500 4X4, 5spd,to many mods to list, 08 Inferno Red QC, SB, 2500, 4X4, 6.7, 68RFE 6spd auto, EDGE ATTITUDE, 305 BFG KM II's More to come

[1stGen545]

Well I have a lot more but I dont have the time. There is about 3X more that what I have so far.

__________________
92 W350 ,4X4, NV4500 (Had Allison 545) pump maxed, and DennyT Puller pin HX35/40-14cm, 5" turbo back exhaust, 96 ex-cab 2500 4X4, 5spd,to many mods to list, 08 Inferno Red QC, SB, 2500, 4X4, 6.7, 68RFE 6spd auto, EDGE ATTITUDE, 305 BFG KM II's More to come

[nooblet]

Awesome, I can't wait to see this whole thing :thumbsup

Thanks again,
Chris

__________________
'90 W250 Non-IC'd / Lockers / POD's / 366 Spring / BHAF / Getrag / Valair Ceramic /3.54:1s / 35" BFG MTs / Phantom II Boost/Pyro

[1stGen545]

Well Lets look at some Mods while were in here.[guitar]

Note I am in no way responsible if you do this and burn things up or get a ticket for excessive acceleration [coffee]

Lets start with fuel pins



Fuel pins do the same job as a cam plate on a P-7100 pump. They change how much fuel is delivered in relation ship with boost. As boost builds it pushes down on the diaphragm and pushes the pin down allowing more fuel. There is a spring under it that holds it up and is adjustable and can be set to speed up or slow down the fuel rate in relation to boost. turning the star wheel at the base clock wise will put less pressure on the spring allowing the fuel rate to increase at lower boost = more smoke at lower boost, Counter-clockwise will put more pressure on the spring and slowes the fuel rate at lower boost levels = less smoke at lower boost.





this is the small pin that rides on the fuel pin. It comes out from the front of the pump



the one on the left is a Bully Dog, center is stock, right is Denny T.



The stock one can bee turned were the eccentric cone is to the rear of the motor thus allowing the pin that rides on it to extend farther out and give more fuel. This is free and will give a noticeable bump in power.

The one on top is a Bully Dog the other is a Denny T. I ran both in my truck and found (like many others) that the Bully Dog made good power but was way to soft and gouged and would stick. The Denny T is maid from very hard SS and will just polish the area and is a lot cheaper. The Denny T pin gives a real boost in power over the Bully Dog and has held up great. DO NOT try to go cheep and make one from mild steel it wont last 100 miles if that[nonono]. There are others out there but I have not tryed them my self.



On the top cover (silver price on top of this pump) there is a Torx head screw that sets the starting depth of the fuel pin at 0psi boost. Ofter called the "Smoke Screw". It can be set deeper CW to give better take off power be for boost comes up but also creates more smoke. It can also be set for less low-no boost fuel and less smoke for pulling and or to compensate for large injectors to keep smoke under control.

__________________
92 W350 ,4X4, NV4500 (Had Allison 545) pump maxed, and DennyT Puller pin HX35/40-14cm, 5" turbo back exhaust, 96 ex-cab 2500 4X4, 5spd,to many mods to list, 08 Inferno Red QC, SB, 2500, 4X4, 6.7, 68RFE 6spd auto, EDGE ATTITUDE, 305 BFG KM II's More to come

[1stGen545]

GSK = 366 Spring = 3200 Governor spring kit

4200 Kit also available.

Starting with throttle linkage and springs removed ( shown how to earlyer) but not needed if you are not replacing the shaft seal

Remove the 4 Allen head bolts that holds the top to the main case.



Slowly lift the top from the pump, you may hear a clock as the lever comes off of the full fuel screw but that's fine. The spring and other parts will not fly out just go slow. as it comes up you will See the spring and can remove it form the throttle rod and hold it while you set the top aside.





Then you can hold the "Top Hat" (pin with spring and washer that is connected to the other end of the gov spring) and remove the gov spring then the top hat.


This is how all the parts go together. Make sure you have them all.



while you are here you can grind the AFC lever to alow more fuel just like the fuel pin. This is not reversable and should be left to guys that want all out performance!! You can not go back

The pin is pointed at the AFC lever and can be ground down to alow for more fuel. The more you grind the more fuel you get to a point. Do at your own risk. The other is the Kill lever DO NOT cut it.



Installing of the new spring is just reverse of removing the old one.

The lever behind the gov spring is the one that the Full fuel screw pushes on and can be pulled toward the front of the pump with a small wire or string to clear the screw as the top is placed back on the pump if the screw was left in place. As you set the top on you can then remove the string or wire and finish installing the top. One other way is to note the depth of the full fuel screw and back it out till the tip is flush with the inside of the cover, as you cam see , this will alow the cover to set on the pump with no probs and then it can be placed back to the previously noted depth.





When you have it all back together remove the intake tube from the turbo and have a bord or some thing solid that you can place over the intake of the turbo to cut off the air and kill the motor incase of runaway.

DO NOT USE YOUR HAND

__________________
92 W350 ,4X4, NV4500 (Had Allison 545) pump maxed, and DennyT Puller pin HX35/40-14cm, 5" turbo back exhaust, 96 ex-cab 2500 4X4, 5spd,to many mods to list, 08 Inferno Red QC, SB, 2500, 4X4, 6.7, 68RFE 6spd auto, EDGE ATTITUDE, 305 BFG KM II's More to come

[nooblet]

When people grind their own fuel pin what exactly are they grinding?

Chris

__________________
'90 W250 Non-IC'd / Lockers / POD's / 366 Spring / BHAF / Getrag / Valair Ceramic /3.54:1s / 35" BFG MTs / Phantom II Boost/Pyro