Clutch problems - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum

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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-07-2013, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
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Clutch problems

Okay guys here it goes,

I put a new Valiar DD in about july 15th. Since this time I have had a problem with the clutch not disengaging completly. At first it was just on start up it would give it a slight jolt, but as time has gone on it will not let go all the way at any time. When I leave it in gear it will move even with the pedal to the floor. untill you press the brakes then it will slip. I called Valiar and the dont know what to tell me. I replaced both the slave and master(oe parts). I lengthened both shafts to varying degrees with no sucess. I also put a puller between the slave mount and the fork and pushed the fork back as far as it would go. This worked. The truck would go into every gear without moving.
So I think the problem is that the fork is not being forced back far enough, but I dont know how to do this without puting to much pressure on it when the clutch is engaged. Any ideas? Josh


1990/92 W250 Getrag, 3.54's, 5x14's, LPLP, he351cw, 4" TBE duals, 60 lbs valve springs, ARP studs, Valair DD, air locker front
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-08-2013, 11:31 PM Thread Starter
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nothing?
....

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-08-2013, 11:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDK12valve View Post
When I leave it in gear it will move even with the pedal to the floor. untill you press the brakes then it will slip.


Brake pedal is what makes the difference..........this tells me your bushings are wore.

Does your clutch pedal have any side to side movement? When it is fully released can you move the clutch pedal up further?

The VE Performance Helper guy.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-11-2013, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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What I meant was when i press the brakes it would bog the engine down till the clutch slipped. Which tells me the clutch is just barley touching. no movement in the pedal

1990/92 W250 Getrag, 3.54's, 5x14's, LPLP, he351cw, 4" TBE duals, 60 lbs valve springs, ARP studs, Valair DD, air locker front
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-12-2013, 09:54 AM
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I have found that the Dodge clutch master/slave cyl did work at all well when re-used after installing new clutch. I could not shift into any gear with the truck running using the original clutch hydraulics. I replaced the original with OEM hydraulics and could not get the trans into 1st with the engine running and 2nd to 5th were hard while running. I finally solve the problem after talking with Peter at SBC - he suggested one of their HD 2nd Gen clutch master/slave setup which solved my problem. He also told me that he had various length push rods between the slave cyl and throwout bearing setup if I needed them. The price was similar to the Dodge setup but was heavy duty.

I would suggest you call Valiar and see if the can supply you with something similar.

Bob

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-15-2013, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDK12valve View Post
Okay guys here it goes,

I put a new Valiar DD in about july 15th. Since this time I have had a problem with the clutch not disengaging completly. At first it was just on start up it would give it a slight jolt, but as time has gone on it will not let go all the way at any time. When I leave it in gear it will move even with the pedal to the floor. untill you press the brakes then it will slip. I called Valiar and the dont know what to tell me. I replaced both the slave and master(oe parts). I lengthened both shafts to varying degrees with no sucess. I also put a puller between the slave mount and the fork and pushed the fork back as far as it would go. This worked. The truck would go into every gear without moving.
So I think the problem is that the fork is not being forced back far enough, but I dont know how to do this without puting to much pressure on it when the clutch is engaged. Any ideas? Josh
I'm having the same problem but my clutch is very tired, I just assumed the clutch or flywheel was worn out and making plans to change it. After reading I think I'll upgrade the hydraulics first.

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-27-2014, 12:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCCUMMINS89 View Post
Brake pedal is what makes the difference..........this tells me your bushings are wore.

Does your clutch pedal have any side to side movement? When it is fully released can you move the clutch pedal up further?
I am having almost the same problem. It shifts hard & when at a stop it will keep moving forward until brake is applied. My clutch pedal sits about an inch or two lower than the brake pedal. When its fully released I can move it to where its even with the brake pedal & it does have side to side movement.

Any suggestions? Not trying to steal thread, just desperate to get my baby fixed!!

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TEXAS COAL ROLLERS
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-27-2014, 11:09 AM
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Pull everything apart and make an adjustable rod.

The VE Performance Helper guy.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-31-2014, 02:43 AM
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I had the same issue.. Turns out the linckage u dear the dash where the master comes through the firewall and clips through to the clutch pedal.. The bushing was gone ... Over time metal on.meteal made the hole bigger and I was not gettig the full throw on my clutch to disenguage it ... Welded the hole up a bit ..put a brand new rubber bushing in it... Shifts smooth now
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-31-2014, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Riley5150 View Post
I had the same issue.. Turns out the linckage u dear the dash where the master comes through the firewall and clips through to the clutch pedal.. The bushing was gone ... Over time metal on.meteal made the hole bigger and I was not gettig the full throw on my clutch to disenguage it ... Welded the hole up a bit ..put a brand new rubber bushing in it... Shifts smooth now
That was the exact same problem I had. Real easy fix, & my truck shifts so smooth now!


1992 Ext Cab D-350 5 Speed. Pump turned up, 4" turbo back straight. TEXAS COAL ROLLERS!!

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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-03-2014, 05:46 PM
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yup i also had a bad bushing under the dash, bought the new master and when i went to install noticed that, oops. but new parts are cool too

1993 dodge w250, 2" skyjacker leveling kit. Denny T II fuel pin, 3200 spring, tuned fuel pump, 4" diamond eye turbo back exhaust, aFe custom air intake.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-03-2014, 05:51 PM
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What did you guys new for a new bushing?

The VE Performance Helper guy.
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