I am going to do a right up on how to go threw your VE with tons of pics and step-by-step of how to do it and what to watch out for and how to get more power out of it. I have been into one a few times before and its not as bad as many people think. This should also help any one with a leaky pump that needs to reseal it. I don't have time tonight but here is a preview of what's to come.opcorn:
i just wanted to thank you for doing this tutorial!!!! i just got done putting my IP back together and driving my bus around town for a test run. it went great. plus now i have the confidence to tear into some light tuning mods and also look at some other pesky trouble spots on the G Bus. see my new post.
to the guy above my post, do a search or start a new thread this one is about the 12V bosh ve rebuild.
again very informative how to . i did it on the engine and the only thing i had trouble with besides getting my hands back there to loosen things was re-indexing the throttle arm while keeping the spring loaded.
no more leaks......
AWESOME
I can look however I have not been there (to the VW site) in some time as I have the manual in a three ring binder and don't need the link myself.
It's a good read though as the assembly tips are given as well as to what tools you'll need for what task.
There are parts you have to keep together as parts that must be measured to index/adjust properly come time to reassemble. The trickiest item is the installation of the gov lever assy. One has to know how to install the springs and at the same time install the lver assy AND the pivot screws, at the same time. LOL:thumbsup
Torque specs are not all that important save for the hydraulic head plug. It's 55 lbs ft if I recall...........You'll know if your about to snap a screw. Just DON'T!
i pulled the the top off my pump with the pump still on the pickup. Sounds like you could get away with doing the same and replace the o-ring on the little pin that rides on the cone shaped fuel pin.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll276/1stGen545/100_1286.jpg
so is the gold looking cap have to be there and if so where would you get one. Mine didnt have one when pulled apart. the pin and bushing it rides in broke and i replaced them but is still leaking. the new one looks a little different but fits tigh. i will try to get pics up of both.
Fantastic write up, I know this is a huge aid to the community here. Maybe I missed it in surfing the photos and write up, but how do your turn your pump up? I have been wanting to take it in to a local performance shop that does 12v and 24 and the owner didnt look like he was excited about doing the VE pump... Is it a set screw? Internals? Grinding that lever?
hey I followed this whole thing rebuilding my ve and fixed my fuel leaks thanks ALOT, but now when I crank my truck it blugh's a couple times then revs to the moon from what people are calling runaway
but no one talks about having runaway from the start up, any ideas at all???
Does that help, you push it down then you can turn it and adjust it to the right position. Then you pull it up into place. Then when you thread that big Allen key nut onto it make sure not to push it down out of place. Hope that kind of helps.
I had mine setup way different but this is how I have it set up now and I have tried skippin teeth back and forth but no difference in what my truck is doing???????
The kid I got my truck from cranked everything up on the pump. Heck the star wheel was missing from the boost diaphragm
So My question is how do I get everything back to stock settings so I can turn it up from there to where I want it.
It's getting 15.5 - 16 MPG now and I'd like to get more.
I put the start wheel back in turned the smoke scre out to where I "think" it should be but I have no clue if it's right or not. Plus I have no clue where to turn the power screw to.
I do need to get 366 spring for it before I start on this too.
I'm wondering about the pump timing. The shaft has a woodruff key so the shaft can only go in one position. Why would you need to be sure your motor is at TDC to remove the pump? The pump can only go on 1 way right? Am I missing something? Thanks
On my truck, the 2 large springs on the back of the pump shattered. It need to be running by tonight. I have a set of slightly smaller springs and a set of slightly larger springs. Which set would be my best bet?
Does anyone know what would be the original specs for the fuel screw? Like how many turns do you turn it when just putting it in if you take it all the way out. i purchased a 92 d350 and the pump has been messed with and i want to set it back to stock so i can make my own modifications. Thanks for any replies!
Thanks for this post-rebuilt my pump based off it-i do have a question though-i reinstalled the pump and can't get it to kick over-my manual kill lever wont budge (to the kill position currently in the run position) but it makes me believe that I incorrectly indexed it putting it back in.. when I installed it the bar ran parallel with the pump so it was maybe 1/4 to 3/8 from hanging the tab from the bottom-does anyone remember what their manual kill lever tab was set at? Thanks!
i just redid my ve pump. changed all the orings and crush washers! all the post on this forum helped me alot.
I bought all the gaskets, barring tool, etc. I'm not new to working or cars,motors, but.... yes theres a but! i made sure everything is 100%. Yet my throttle is really laggy like i have no pick up like i useto. my my old dually was fast as can be but now i it feels like like an olde fart. anyone know how to allow it to recieve more fuel? i useto dump alot of black smoke now theres nothing.
Well most on this board will not encourage lots of black smoke.....it's a bad image for all of us, and will only bring down stricter rules and laws for all of us.....so the lack of black smoke is a good thing IMO.
As for what's wrong with your IP....well if it was working fine before you pulled it apart, and now it's not, then it's clearly something you did incorrectly on re-assembly. I have done a number of IP's over the years and there have been times when I was sure I put it back together correctly....100% sure.....but turned out something got missed, or adjusted incorrectly during assembly.
I would suggest adjusting your throttle position first....and report back. Did you add anything to your IP, spring, fuel pin, timing spacer etc?
Maybe start your own thread on this, you'll get more eyes and opinions that way.
Think the photo owners need to pay Photobucket for them to release access to them.
Believe there are a couple of work arounds to gain access
Cheers Steve
photobucket is free. if the owner moved them around in his library in his account they will not show. The link points to them being in a certain spot. If they have been moved then the OP needs to fix his origional post.
I wish there was a way to view the pictures in each post. I am in need of doing a VE rebuild but without these pictures it would be hard
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Cummins Diesel Forum
8.8M posts
379.2K members
Since 2005
A forum community dedicated to all things Cummins Diesel! Originally founded for owners and enthusiasts of Cummins powered Dodge pickups, the Cummins Forum has expanded to include ALL Cummins Engine applications! Come join the discussion about reviews, drivetrain swaps, turbos, modifications, classifieds, builds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!