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VE rebuild with pics Look inside

137K views 93 replies 58 participants last post by  dodge bill 
#1 ·
I am going to do a right up on how to go threw your VE with tons of pics and step-by-step of how to do it and what to watch out for and how to get more power out of it. I have been into one a few times before and its not as bad as many people think. This should also help any one with a leaky pump that needs to reseal it. I don't have time tonight but here is a preview of what's to come.:popcorn:



 
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#30 ·
By all rights, we may need to look at a title change as the thread is not focused on a rebuild. When a member searches for a "rebuild thread" and finds this, it's not on track with what is searched.

I will not change it myself, but will bring it up to the other web site mods and ask them.
 
#34 ·
Going a little farther you can remove the governor assembly

1st remove the jam nut at the front of the pump and unscrew the shaft
slowly slide it out and then all the parts will be free and can be removed
Don't be afraid if the weights in the governor fall out they are easy to re assemble.











then You can remove the (2) 3 - sided studs on the side of the pump You can buy the tool from Bosch or you drive a 6-pint 1/2" socket over it and get it out. I suggest the correct socket. when they are removed then you can get the other levers out.







 
#79 ·
On the shaft here, if I/m leaking fuel from there is it the o ring on the shaft or the washer under the jam nut thats bad ? And what size is that jam nut.. 14 MM ? With the KSB line running above it s kinda of a PITA to get to, seemed to have tightened a hair but still dribbles a bit .
 
#35 ·
To remove the roler ring you have to remove theis clip that covers a pin that holds a rod that links it to the KSB piston.







then you can remove the piston and ring







 
#36 ·
Now you can remove the shaft

There is a small keyway that will fall out its fine it drives the (supply pump) vain pump inside.

You can also see the two Buffers that will need to be replaced.





this is the supply pump suport ring



Pump







here is the pump The small notches must go back to the inside and sould be placed in the same slot they came out of.

Then with the front seal removed you can see the two bushings that can be replaced if worn badly.


 
#37 ·
now to dis asemble the top

first you will have to drive out the 2 BB's on the side
Just drive from one side till the BB falls out of the other side
Then drive the pin back to the side you started on till the other bb falls out.
Then the pin can be removed and teh AFC lever removed







then remove the allen plug from the front of the housing
youcan then remove the allen head plug that holds the O-ring in place around the small pin that rides on the Fuel pin.





 
#38 ·
Excellent write up and photos......... :thumbsup
Thank you ...........
:)
 
#39 ·
Thank you, Well Done!!:thumbsup:woot:

Great info. I'm going to place a copy of this in the tech article section.
 
#41 ·
can some one help me get one of the Danny Tpins. I would like to order one. How should I get in touch with him.
 
#44 ·
Head/rotor assy. The head is machine matched to the rotor which function together (one inside the other) to build the high pressure required to pop open the injectors. The head also distributes the fuel to the proper injector line.

There are different sizes. The larger heads are able to supply more fuel.
 
#46 ·
Hey man there is a God. I am 16 years old and have two other passionate friends and we are big into diesels. We just got a 92 cummins 12 valve for free. and you guessed it, with over 700,000 miles on it and the previous owner had it for sixteen years the only thing wrong is the pump and we have the honor of restoring it!!! This is going to be a huge help. If you want anything just reply back to us. Thank you!!
 
#48 ·
head o-ring

hey- just signed up so i could reply with a question. your thread is amazing. great photos. my ip is leaking between the head and the body. i'm guessing it's just that big o-ring. my big question is can i remove the head to replace the o-ring without removing the entire pump (after removing the lines)? apologies if it's somewhere else in the forum.
 
#49 ·
so I have one more question , where would I go about getting a rebuild kit for this pump and what is the cost of it? thanks
 
#51 ·
yeah that was sick!
 
#55 ·
Nice writeup, it will definitely help me when I get a 12v :thumbsup:
 
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