I am going to do a right up on how to go threw your VE with tons of pics and step-by-step of how to do it and what to watch out for and how to get more power out of it. I have been into one a few times before and its not as bad as many people think. This should also help any one with a leaky pump that needs to reseal it. I don't have time tonight but here is a preview of what's to come.opcorn:
By all rights, we may need to look at a title change as the thread is not focused on a rebuild. When a member searches for a "rebuild thread" and finds this, it's not on track with what is searched.
I will not change it myself, but will bring it up to the other web site mods and ask them.
Going a little farther you can remove the governor assembly
1st remove the jam nut at the front of the pump and unscrew the shaft
slowly slide it out and then all the parts will be free and can be removed
Don't be afraid if the weights in the governor fall out they are easy to re assemble.
then You can remove the (2) 3 - sided studs on the side of the pump You can buy the tool from Bosch or you drive a 6-pint 1/2" socket over it and get it out. I suggest the correct socket. when they are removed then you can get the other levers out.
On the shaft here, if I/m leaking fuel from there is it the o ring on the shaft or the washer under the jam nut thats bad ? And what size is that jam nut.. 14 MM ? With the KSB line running above it s kinda of a PITA to get to, seemed to have tightened a hair but still dribbles a bit .
first you will have to drive out the 2 BB's on the side
Just drive from one side till the BB falls out of the other side
Then drive the pin back to the side you started on till the other bb falls out.
Then the pin can be removed and teh AFC lever removed
then remove the allen plug from the front of the housing
youcan then remove the allen head plug that holds the O-ring in place around the small pin that rides on the Fuel pin.
Head/rotor assy. The head is machine matched to the rotor which function together (one inside the other) to build the high pressure required to pop open the injectors. The head also distributes the fuel to the proper injector line.
There are different sizes. The larger heads are able to supply more fuel.
Hey man there is a God. I am 16 years old and have two other passionate friends and we are big into diesels. We just got a 92 cummins 12 valve for free. and you guessed it, with over 700,000 miles on it and the previous owner had it for sixteen years the only thing wrong is the pump and we have the honor of restoring it!!! This is going to be a huge help. If you want anything just reply back to us. Thank you!!
hey- just signed up so i could reply with a question. your thread is amazing. great photos. my ip is leaking between the head and the body. i'm guessing it's just that big o-ring. my big question is can i remove the head to replace the o-ring without removing the entire pump (after removing the lines)? apologies if it's somewhere else in the forum.
Nice writeup, it will definitely help me when I get a 12v :thumbsup:
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