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89-93 Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect...NO ADVERTISING

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Old 07-20-2011, 03:03 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Rear Main seal replacement options

well my rear main is pissing out and ive had enuff of it. just torn on what way to fix it. should i pull the trans and do it or pull the engine and do it?

seeing as how the seal is leaking it raises the question of bearring wear. the truck does have 430,000 kms on it, but has had its 5000km services dilligintly.

so shall a fight the trans to just do the seal. or pull the engine, do the seal, pan gasket, spec the bearings and seeing as how its really easy while its out do the KPD?

thoughts?
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Old 07-20-2011, 07:44 PM   #2 (permalink)
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i pulled my transmission. you can have a transmission in and out pretty quickly if you get the truck off of the ground. i will say that i had good luck putting mine in by searching these forums to see how everyone else says to go about it. i used dial calipers to make sure it was as close to evenly installed as possible. good luck.
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Old 07-21-2011, 09:12 PM   #3 (permalink)
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just did this job its easy.

once the trans clutch and bell housing are removed there is one more plate to remove.

once this plate is removed you can pull the rear main seal housing. use care not to damage the oil pan gasket.

the seal i bought came with an install ring to tap it into place and to the correct depth.

sounds way easier than pulling a motor.
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Old 07-22-2011, 07:40 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Even though it was the most fiddely tranny to pull I've ever done, it was way easier than pulling the engine!
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Old 08-14-2011, 03:09 PM   #5 (permalink)
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well the trans is out and ive gotten to the seal... now im waiting on a new flexplate as mine has a significant crank in it. prob goin with another oem one as it is only $15, i looked a bd but there $450...... any other options?
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Old 08-16-2011, 12:49 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Go with a 2nd gen one thru Cummins is like $150.00 us dollars.

I don't trust aftermarket ones, I went thru two of them till I got it right. They are too stiff and don't flex enough. I ripped the center out that bolts to the crank on them all with in 50 miles or so. No fun
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Old 08-17-2011, 01:37 AM   #7 (permalink)
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well the cheap option wasent right anyways lordco has some issues understanding what a flexplate is, then the guy tells me its a flywheel.... anyways after nothing from them i tried dodge.... they wanted $542 cdn and a week to get it..... they got told where dinner hangs and how to eat it. i called the local cummins dealer, they said $200 cdn and one day to get it. i ended up goin to see my machinist and he was able to tig weld and grind down the crack. looks as good as new. have to see how it does. he was quite confident and i trust his judgement. all thats left now is to throw in the t case and top up the fluids.
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Old 08-18-2011, 09:00 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I'm all about fixing it cheap and easy but I think once flex plates break or crack they lose there spring or ability to flex so it may be more likely to stress and crack else where. Maybe with it being tig welded with minimal heat to wrap it, it'll last another 400,000 kms. I'm just not a huge fan of pulling the trans out more than once. Good Luck!
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Old 08-19-2011, 09:08 PM   #9 (permalink)
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shes all done now. runs great and no leaks. ive definetly got the art of trans removal on the dodge in me so if i had to remove it wouldnt be too bad to do again. for now the flexplate willhave to do.
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Old 03-29-2013, 08:34 AM   #10 (permalink)
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IMPROVED NO LEAK rear main seal

I just recently designed a new rear seal. I am a retired Chrysler engineer. We had a lot of problems with the rear seals. 13 revisions
and they still leaked.. I am almost out of them. I put pictures and wrote about them om my auction page. Below is a link and the auction # go there if you want to learn more. Of feel free to contact me 301-219-7399 days or eves till 3am.
And.....Take the trans out to replace

Item number: 290878422677

New Improved No Leak Rear Main Seal for Cummins 5 9 6BT Diesel Dodge | eBay

PS: Seal fits 4BT , 6bt 5.9 and 6.7 from 1989 up to 2008



Quote:
Originally Posted by 19936BTA View Post
well my rear main is pissing out and ive had enuff of it. just torn on what way to fix it. should i pull the trans and do it or pull the engine and do it?

seeing as how the seal is leaking it raises the question of bearring wear. the truck does have 430,000 kms on it, but has had its 5000km services dilligintly.

so shall a fight the trans to just do the seal. or pull the engine, do the seal, pan gasket, spec the bearings and seeing as how its really easy while its out do the KPD?

thoughts?

Last edited by mysteryman; 03-29-2013 at 08:39 AM.
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Old 03-29-2013, 10:13 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mysteryman View Post
I just recently designed a new rear seal. I am a retired Chrysler engineer. We had a lot of problems with the rear seals. 13 revisions
and they still leaked.. I am almost out of them. I put pictures and wrote about them om my auction page. Below is a link and the auction # go there if you want to learn more. Of feel free to contact me 301-219-7399 days or eves till 3am.
And.....Take the trans out to replace

Item number: 290878422677

New Improved No Leak Rear Main Seal for Cummins 5 9 6BT Diesel Dodge | eBay

PS: Seal fits 4BT , 6bt 5.9 and 6.7 from 1989 up to 2008

Why would Chrysler's engineers work on a Cummin's problem? What about the groove in the crankshaft that the spring loaded rubber seal will create that the oe won't? The .090 off centre of the seal housing that you mention is not uncommon. Many engines require you to centre the seal housing on the crank. Installed correctly the oe seal works great and will save your crank so that it will survive as many overhauls as the rest of the engine.

Steve g
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Old 03-29-2013, 11:32 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Agreed that it might cause a larger groove, but I've never pulled a front or rear seal and not had a groove in the crank from the factory one.
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