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Old 03-17-2012, 06:18 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Well, I guess that is going to have to wait a while, because I don't even have the chevy t-case anymore either, so I'm going to have to do a lot of parts shopping to make this work. Thanks for the help, and whenever I get to that project and have the parts I will hit you up for some pics and more advice!
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"The C-Burban": '90 W350 single wheel with a '93 Suburban body /getrag 5spd/ Pump turned up some/ 3" straight pipe/ 3200 rpm spring/ hx35/ 4" intake/ 3" crossover tube/ egt and boost on pillar pod/ 18" wheels/ 33" wrangler duratracs
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Old 03-17-2012, 06:21 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Are there any issues hooking up the 241dld to the getrag 5sp, or should I be planning on a tranny swap at the same time?
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Old 03-17-2012, 09:46 PM   #27 (permalink)
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It would bolt in as long as it came from a manual transmission. Why not have Dakota Digital build you something. Possibly be cheaper in the long run.....
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Old 03-17-2012, 10:16 PM   #28 (permalink)
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They do have some cool stuff, don't they! I'm still not ready to spend that much yet, so unless I can find a cheaper temporary solution, I am going to have to wait on that fix.
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Old 03-18-2012, 12:30 PM   #29 (permalink)
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you could always build a custom dash. They also make gps based speedometers so you don't need to mess with the t/case and so on.
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Old 03-19-2012, 01:08 PM   #30 (permalink)
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I looked at the Dakota digital stuff when I did mine, they had ones that would go on the damper with their own tone ring for the tach and another one that would mount on the yolk on the driveshaft and they were fairly pricey, but I still had my old tcase for parts. Do you have any junk yards where you can get parts? Any case from a 88-98 Chevy 1/2 ton will work, also grab an extra speedo sensor and I can help ya rig up ur tach
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Old 03-24-2012, 10:11 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Well, I cleaned up the truck today and decided I would go ahead and turn in the full power screw on the pump. (I have already turned the star wheel, the smoke screw and the pin) I took the collar off, turned the screw in 2 turns, put the nut back on, adjusted the idle, and went for a ride. I took it pretty easy going up our lane and down our road until I could get to a better place to open her up. Even at that, I could see a lot more smoke! The problem is that when I started to get into it, the turbo made a bad sound, so I backed out of the throttle, turned around and eased it home. When I shut it off, I could hear a metalic sound as the turbo wound down. So, I took the intake tube off and spun the turbine. It spun freely, but did have a little play front to back. the blades where fine.... so I guess this means that the exhaust housing is where the problem lies?!? I think my brother has an extra hx35 laying around, so I may just put it on there and see how it works. Is the hx35 much different than the stock turbo with the pump turned up? Are there any tricks to installing the hx35? Oh, I also found a split in the intake tube right by the clamp that holds it to the turbo, so I guess I'll be replacing that as well. Wish me luck, and any tips would be appreciated!
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Old 03-25-2012, 09:38 AM   #32 (permalink)
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The front diff is on the passenger side, so you will have to clock the 241 from driver side to passenger side drop... Its possible though, but more work than what its worth if you already have the speedo on gps.
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Old 03-26-2012, 03:57 PM   #33 (permalink)
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OK, I got the turbo taken off and this is what I found: First of all, I could see no visible damage from either the front or the back while the housings where in place. Just that little bit of shaft play both in-out and side to side. I couldn't get the exhaust housing off(maybe there is some trick to this?) but when I pulled the front cover off I saw this:













So, what does this mean? just replace the turbo and I'm good to go, or does this imply that something may have been sucked into the motor and I have much bigger issues? I also took a couple pics of my intake tube.







This piece goes from the 3" turbo inlet to a 4.5" at the filter. Anyone know where I can get a replacement?

Thanks in advance for any and all help!
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Old 03-26-2012, 04:03 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Got a couple pictures of the C-burban when it is a little cleaner!



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"The C-Burban": '90 W350 single wheel with a '93 Suburban body /getrag 5spd/ Pump turned up some/ 3" straight pipe/ 3200 rpm spring/ hx35/ 4" intake/ 3" crossover tube/ egt and boost on pillar pod/ 18" wheels/ 33" wrangler duratracs
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Old 03-26-2012, 04:39 PM   #35 (permalink)
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My brother said that the hx35 he has needs some sort of plate or cover on the back for the wastegate. does anyone know what this might be?
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Old 03-26-2012, 11:58 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-man View Post
My brother said that the hx35 he has needs some sort of plate or cover on the back for the wastegate. does anyone know what this might be?
Well, he answered this for my by finding this on ebay: Holset HY-35 HX35 Turbo Downpipe Flange Custom Weld 3" | eBay

So, I am going to get it ordered and as soon as he can get his turbo sent to me, I'll get her up and running again!
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"The C-Burban": '90 W350 single wheel with a '93 Suburban body /getrag 5spd/ Pump turned up some/ 3" straight pipe/ 3200 rpm spring/ hx35/ 4" intake/ 3" crossover tube/ egt and boost on pillar pod/ 18" wheels/ 33" wrangler duratracs
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