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Old 03-01-2008, 01:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Help! Bad battery cables???

I need some help please!

Previous owner made crappy 2/0 gauge battery cables. Both are shot and the truck won't start now. I am putting some pre-made generic 4' cables in and dealing with all of the mess of little cables on the positive side. I'd prefer to replace it with factory-style wiring if possible but anything was better than what he did
  • Someone please post a photo of the stock cables mounted, as it comes from the factory.
  • Does anyone know the part number and price for new replacement Dodge cables, if they are still available?
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1989 Dodge D250 LE, Cummins Turbodiesel, 2WD A727 Transmission, 359k Miles
TRE A727 | One-Pc. DS | BHAF | Fuel Heat Del. | Torza Tonneau Cover
PARTS FOR 47RH SWAP WANTED - SEND ME A PRIVATE MESSAGE
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Old 03-01-2008, 07:44 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Check e-buy Occasionally there are 1st gens being parted out...

Saw one listed as 'Under hood wiring' Looked like a rats nest, but I'll bet it had what you need. OH - only $25...
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LONG GONE '93 D250 Auto CC HX-40 60/65/17 w/hx50 flange - hit 57 held 55 psi OOPS => 6x16's <=, PS IC, CoolerTubz, 366 spring w/2 turn clipped, power screw bottomed-backed off 1 1/2 turn, M2 power pin, smoke screw fully out, custom AFC spring, modified top to get pin higher, '94 built trans - clutches and some hard parts, trans cooler under bed in front of rear wheel, 4510 w/4 1/2" intake and heat shield, htr grids MIA, 4" dp -> 5" pipe -> 5" Stack, 285's rear 265's front 2011 Long Bed Crew 3500 w/6 Alcoas
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Old 03-02-2008, 09:04 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I couldn't find that ad you referred to despite my best efforts, do you have a link?

I'd like a photo of the battery cables at the battery end if someone has one.
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PARTS FOR 47RH SWAP WANTED - SEND ME A PRIVATE MESSAGE
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Old 03-02-2008, 09:55 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Here you go.

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Old 03-02-2008, 08:03 PM   #5 (permalink)
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try
Wholesale Mopar
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90 250 2wd auto Bone Stock.
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Old 03-03-2008, 08:20 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Excellent! Thanks for that. I replaced the battery cables with some generic ones until I can get some replacement Dodge ones. Shortly after I had those in I found the battery was also dead (hah). I replaced the battery. Everything worked much better, for a bit...

This morning I started the engine, and the grid heater cycled much faster than it used to (1-2 seconds on, 1-2 seconds off, repeating steady). My voltmeter appears to be nonfunctional but I could notice the dimming of the interior courtesy lamps and the headlamps. When I was driving down the interstate, the headlamps continued to cycle just the same - except after a while the headlights dimmed and just started to get dimmer and dimmer.

The truck is parked at home while I drive my other car. It's such a simple wiring system so I suspect the problem is something equally simple, but could my grid heater be pulling the voltage down like this? Should I hear a sound like a large capacitor charging when I turn the key? What is the control mechanism for the grid heater, a thermister or something similarly simple? I need a wiring diagram, is it something I should seek from Dodge, Cummins, Chilton book, etc?
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1989 Dodge D250 LE, Cummins Turbodiesel, 2WD A727 Transmission, 359k Miles
TRE A727 | One-Pc. DS | BHAF | Fuel Heat Del. | Torza Tonneau Cover
PARTS FOR 47RH SWAP WANTED - SEND ME A PRIVATE MESSAGE
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Old 03-03-2008, 09:17 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Coleman, where are you located ?
I disconnected my grids back in Jan - and we've had 'some chilly days' here since then.
I've got the grids out - just a big aluminum hole straight into the intake.
I plug in the truck at night and it never fails to start, During the day it has never turned over more than 4 - 5 cylinders before firing..
You're right - the grid heaters DO draw a lot of current. My voltmeter dropped from 12v to 8 or less when they turned on...
At the firewall end of the intake manifold is a temp sensor. Don't know the temp it's set for but that's what turns the grids on. You could pull the connector out and that should stop the grids from cycling.
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LONG GONE '93 D250 Auto CC HX-40 60/65/17 w/hx50 flange - hit 57 held 55 psi OOPS => 6x16's <=, PS IC, CoolerTubz, 366 spring w/2 turn clipped, power screw bottomed-backed off 1 1/2 turn, M2 power pin, smoke screw fully out, custom AFC spring, modified top to get pin higher, '94 built trans - clutches and some hard parts, trans cooler under bed in front of rear wheel, 4510 w/4 1/2" intake and heat shield, htr grids MIA, 4" dp -> 5" pipe -> 5" Stack, 285's rear 265's front 2011 Long Bed Crew 3500 w/6 Alcoas
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Old 03-03-2008, 09:34 AM   #8 (permalink)
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You have an 89 truck. I would be checking the voltage regulator. It is a external unit mounted on the fire wall.

Dodge doesn't sell the FSM for our trucks anymore. Geno's garage does.
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Old 03-03-2008, 10:41 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I was thinking about my wiring, and it might be as simple as my attempting to both be thorough as well as quick with the repair. I crimped on the connector pretty good for the larger of the black positive cables coming from the battery terminal. I'd assume this is the primary lead to the current loads like the heater grid, headlights, etc. I'm really hoping I just goofed and need to revise my crimp with a proper solder sweat-joint that I didn't have time to do before. No problems until I started driving so I think it's possible the connection inside the crimp failed.

Previous owner put in a new charging system just before I bought it. I think he remembered the voltage regulator but I'll check that.

Looks like I have to update my profile, I thought it said. I am in Charlottesville, VA. We seldom see below 25F so I am sure it would be fine for the engine if I removed the heater grid. I am also considering removing the fuel filter heater to rid of the quad ring's leaky design, then boxing up the parts (in case I or someone else in the future own the truck up north).
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1989 Dodge D250 LE, Cummins Turbodiesel, 2WD A727 Transmission, 359k Miles
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PARTS FOR 47RH SWAP WANTED - SEND ME A PRIVATE MESSAGE
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Old 03-03-2008, 05:12 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Previous owner put in a new charging system just before I bought it.
Yea and were they Autozone parts???

Don't take it for granted they were good parts he installed.
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Old 03-03-2008, 06:21 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip View Post
Yea and were they Autozone parts???

Don't take it for granted they were good parts he installed.
Yeah, but I'm not going to assume it's crap either! I've had fine luck with Autozone on my other cars. My truck does get the real thing though. Cummins or Dodge parts so I know just who I need to go yell at when I screw something up

I ordered the Cummins #3925954 fuel filter stud to remove the fuel heater (I'm boxing up the original parts for later) and I might go and make a little grid-heater-delete box on the mill (and box up those original parts, too). I'm out of town for the week but I think this weekend I'm going to try and re-crimp the wires then sweat them, and get the Mopar cables in the mail.

That Wholesale Mopar site lists 90-93 for the cables. My cables looked identical to Philip's cables (although his are without the 'repairs' mine had). Does anyone know if they are the same as my '89 cables?
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1989 Dodge D250 LE, Cummins Turbodiesel, 2WD A727 Transmission, 359k Miles
TRE A727 | One-Pc. DS | BHAF | Fuel Heat Del. | Torza Tonneau Cover
PARTS FOR 47RH SWAP WANTED - SEND ME A PRIVATE MESSAGE
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Old 03-03-2008, 11:51 PM   #12 (permalink)
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If your cables looked like mine then they should work.
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