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same thing happened to me i just had to becam e part of the pull cable club
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2008 white rhino lining on bottom, Mini Maxx w/pyro, all the deletes,5"flopro, Ats stage 2
1993 W250, 5 Speed Gret, 366 spring, 2nd gen intake, turned up VE, PULL CABLE CULB MEMBER, hx40, 4" turbo back to 7" single Stack, DENNY T 2 FUEL PIN, PODS, 322.9 Hp 548.3 Ft Lbs
if it broke once because of a turned up pump wont it do it again? mine started crappin on me today so looks like i got somethin to do tomorrow. im just gonna put a pull cable on it
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SOLD: 91 d250 ic 5sp
92 d250 auto ext. cab. 366 spring. afc MIA straight pipe w/ 5in tip
if it broke once because of a turned up pump wont it do it again?
Yes.
Oddly, the only way around it is to install larger injectors to relieve the increased internal IP pressures associated with turning the fuel screw up. Said pressures are what tears the shut-off solenoid's plunger.
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David
Original owner of a plain'ol VE fueled '93 W250 ClubCab. Green
If you're going to get a new solenoid -
try this first .......
Tear off the rubber tip completely - down to metal...
IF you are lucky enough to have a plunger that does NOT have a hole through it then make sure ALL the rubber is removed from the plunger and re-install it into the solenoid and put the solenoid back into the pump...
I know it sound crazy - but some of the solenoids had hole through them and some didn't. When mine went out at S.O.P. #6 last year they pulled the rubber completely off and since mine did not have a hole through it they re-installed to FSS....
Hasn't failed yet.
OF course this spring I got larger sticks and now it doesn't matter anyhow
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'93 D250 Auto CC HX-40 60/65/17 w/hx50 flange - hit 57 held 55 psi OOPS => 6x16's <=, PS IC, CoolerTubz, 366 spring w/2 turn clipped, power screw bottomed-backed off 1 1/2 turn, M2 power pin, smoke screw fully out, custom AFC spring, modified top to get pin higher, '94 built trans - clutches and some hard parts, trans cooler under bed in front of rear wheel, 4510 w/4 1/2" intake and heat shield, htr grids MIA, 4" dp -> 5" pipe -> 5" Stack, 285's rear 265's front
I too, have recently joined the cable club. I'm a fan of the nylon string, myself. And to anyone, thanks for this thread, I finally was able to determine the cause of the failed solenoid, and that it really is a failed solenoid. however, does anyone know how to remove said solenoid? I can't get any wrenches or anything in there to unscrew it and all I can think to do is buy some cheap wrenches and grind them down. Is there a special tool or do I have to pull a bunch of stuff off first? I'm a new diesel owner and I don't want to just dig into that injector pump and accidentally remove something sensitive or in the wrong order. Thanks.
I got mine off with a crescent wrench at a very steep angle. It actually twisted loose fairly easy. I was worried I couldn't torque it tight when I put it back but no leaks so far!
Will a torn plunger let a motor stall between shifts? If I lay into the fuel hard then let off i can consistently stall my motor. If it isn't this "plunger" then i'm possibly due for a VE pump rebuild!
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