Noob Rear brakes how to

[richard.bessey]

OK, noob question on how to do rear brakes.

1st off, I have done lots of drum brakes on small pickups, no problems.
On my Dodge, I took the tire off and noticed the drum ... don't come off.

So I did some digging on the net and found this picture
Replacing Axle Seals pictures from trucks photos on webshots

Please correct me if I am wrong or missed a step, I have to:

1. Remove the rear tire
2. Remove the 8 bolts that hold the axel cap in, and pull the axel out (I do NOT have to pull the differential cover .. ???)
3. Pull the snap ring and nut holding the hub on (special tools required?)
4. And the hub and brake drum will slide off as one unit
5. Service my brake pads as needed

Am I missing anything? Any special tools or parts required for these trucks compared my small nissan pickup?

[crfsti]

I just did the rear brake shoes on my stepdad's '97 4x4 F-350, which should have the pretty much same dana axle as our dodges. The drum will come off, you just have to tap on it all around to break it loose, they can be stuck on there pretty good(especially if the the drums have been grooved from badly worn brake shoes). Also spray it down with PB blaster/WD40, it helps break it free. Good luck!

[unixcowboy]

Adjust the brakes ALL the way IN - there's usually a small lip on the edge that catches the shoes.

And you'll probably need to do more than TAP the drums...
I used a BIG rubber mallet after I took a 3 lb sledge to it. Don't beat it to death, but don't be afraid to hit it with with a small sledge. It'll appear to loosen then stop. That's when you go at it with the rubber mallet.
If you can get help it goes faster. One pulls on the drum while the other beats it with the mallet.

Seems the drums get 'set' on the inner bearing and neither wants to let go.

When you put the bearings back on - pack them with grease lightly, don't force it too far in. You want something to lube it 'til the axle can get lube into it.

[MOUNTAIN MILLWRIGHT]

you pretty well have it. no you dont need to pull the diff cover just the nuts that hold the axle.

there will be some kind of retaing clip maybe a retaining ring i havent pulled that many apart. mine just has a little tab that goes into a key way and into the nylon part of the lock nut.

the interference on the threads of the lock nut is pretty tight so deffinately get the proper socket. (2 9/16? cant remember and not at home to check) they shouldnt be that much from a parts store. i had to use a hammer and chisel not recomended you need a lot of beer and patience and risk getting metal in your bearings.

there is a torque spec when tightening up the bearings for proper preload (again cant remeber and dont have the manual in front of me 120 foot ponds or something like that) its more or less just like a 2wd front end or tighten until resistance to turning increases and back of a 1/4 to a 1/3.

may as well change those bearing seals and everyhing else that is in there while you have it apart. and definately some grease in the bearings until some oil gets in there. it doesent hurt to jack each side of the rear end and let it the oil flow in there for a bit then re check your diff oil level.

hope this is helpful.

[CO cummins luvr]

Apparently there are sdome differences in 1st gen rear brakes. on my 93 the studs press through the drum, no pulling that thing without the hub.

[richard.bessey]

MOUNTAIN MILLWRIGHT, Thank you! Exactly what I wanted to know.

[wyattearp1]

yes the hub and drum come together, the studs are what holds them together currently got mine apart and nothing to it, except i want my Parking brakes to work so im tryin to track down those dam little clips that holds it in the E lever. other than that its a pc of cake, preload on the bearings are 120-140 but i do mine 140 and back off 1/3 a turn.. mine this time around there was no leaks bearings were tight and no slop. and if you turn the adjuster wheel up it will loose your shoes, when you click it down is to tighten mine actually came right off, i am replacing seals but could prob have reused, if your careful you can do that as long as you slip the assembly back on level and get the bearing in the front, it takes some body contortion to do it though LOL.
Anyone know where you can get those clips.

[solaros]

"im tryin to track down those dam little clips that holds it in the E lever"

Did you ever find those clips? What do they look like? They are missing on my truck and I want to reconnect the e-brake.

Thanks,
Jake

[G.u.y]

A Boy and his Jeep Dana 60/70 Rear Drums

Might help

[Left out in the cold]

Don't forget to loosen your parking brake cable all the way. It makes it easier to get the drum off and doesn't mess with you while you are trying to adjust them. Once the brakes are adjusted, then adjust the parking brake.

[BILTIT]

Originally Posted by MOUNTAIN MILLWRIGHT

you pretty well have it. no you dont need to pull the diff cover just the nuts that hold the axle.

there will be some kind of retaing clip maybe a retaining ring i havent pulled that many apart. mine just has a little tab that goes into a key way and into the nylon part of the lock nut.

the interference on the threads of the lock nut is pretty tight so deffinately get the proper socket. (2 9/16? cant remember and not at home to check) they shouldnt be that much from a parts store. i had to use a hammer and chisel not recomended you need a lot of beer and patience and risk getting metal in your bearings.

there is a torque spec when tightening up the bearings for proper preload (again cant remeber and dont have the manual in front of me 120 foot ponds or something like that) its more or less just like a 2wd front end or tighten until resistance to turning increases and back of a 1/4 to a 1/3.

may as well change those bearing seals and everyhing else that is in there while you have it apart. and definately some grease in the bearings until some oil gets in there. it doesent hurt to jack each side of the rear end and let it the oil flow in there for a bit then re check your diff oil level.

hope this is helpful.

2 9/16's is correct. i just bought one. Makes it so much easier. The nuts can only handle a few times using a hammer and chisel and they need to be replaced.

[solaros]

Wow i've never seen a socket that big! I just wedged a large flat blade screwdriver in between one of the flats of the nut and the inside of the hub, then turned the brake drum with my free hand. Worked perfectly no chisel needed, the nut shouldn't be on very tight anyway, if you need a chisel or huge socket and breaker bar then it wasnt installed correctly the first time and your bearings are prolly shot. The nut only holds the tapered bearings in their races, should be snug but not so tight as to cause drag...

That jeep's dana 60/70 rear is very similar to mine but uses a different e-brake lever, his has the end bent to hold the cable, mine has a slot and requires some kind of small metal clip to keep the cable end in place. I still haven't found a source or even a picture of what im missing. If anyone has a picture of their dodge rear brakes and/or a source for those clips i'd appreciate it.
Thanks,
Jake