Borgeson Shaft Install with pics.

Ram Fan · 03-10-2010, 06:11 PM

I've been lurking and gleaning information from your archives for a while now and figured it was time I contributed something!

This is pretty basic but maybe not for everyone and lord knows, I love pics as reference.

So, you need,

Hammer
7/32's drift punch
Small pry bar
5/32's allen wrench
3/8ths 12 point socket and ratchet
rag, loctite, WD 40 (good enough for NASA, good enough for my shop!)

Before you start, obviously park so your tires are straight and the steering wheel is centered.
First thing I did was give all the bolts at the top of the shaft connection a blast of WD to start penetrating the bolts. While that was setting up I disconnected the vacuum line coming from the brake booster to make it easier to get my hands in there. I also marked the rag joint with a paint marker for reference,

Next I went underneath and knocked out the set pin on the steering box coupler. A little WD helped here as well.

After that, a light pry with the bar and she slipped right off.

After that I headed back up top to start undoing the rag joint. I ducked into the cab and turned the steering wheel over to lock to add resistance. Had to unlock and re-turn it to access the bolts on the other side. I undid them on the LOWER side at the rag joint and then backed out one safety bolt to allow me to slip the top of the bottom shaft off the connection.

Once loose, pulled out the old shaft and as you can see....totally punched!

Now the fun part...new shaft going in. Started at the top in reverse order. Slid the rag joint connection past the safety pin and did up the rag connections. Blue loctite is your friend here. Don't forget to tighten down the safety bolt!

Now, unlock your steering wheel and make sure she is centered. Extend the lower part of the steering shaft and fit it onto the steering box splined shaft. Take note of where groove from original lock pin was as our new set screw does not want to be in there. Mine lined up so I slid the shaft coupler further towards the steering box to clear the groove. Tighten in new set screw to mark splines for filing.

Pull steering shaft u joint off and hit the box splines with the file to create a flat spot for the set screw to seat in. (blurry photo but to the left of original groove)

Once filed, slide u joint back onto splined shaft and crank in the set screw. (loctite is your friend here as well) Once tight, add the lock not. Finally slide collar up to the bottom of the rubber boot, tighten set screw to keep it in place and you should wind up with something that looks like this:

Man, that is sexy! Once done, did a quick double check of everything and the test drive. The difference is unreal. A highly recommended upgrade. After 100 KM (60 miles) re check everything to make sure nothing has loosened. Hopefully this helps!

JDiehl · 03-10-2010, 06:24 PM

Nice write up! Thanks for the pics. This thread will be a guide when I do the swap on my 92.

DieselSharker · 03-10-2010, 07:20 PM

That looks pretty. Mine is pretty rusty by now but still works great and made it easy when I had to replace the input shaft seals on the steering box.

Brandonsmokincummins · 03-10-2010, 08:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JDiehl

Nice write up! Thanks for the pics. This thread will be a guide when I do the swap on my 92.

thanks

***Orangeracer*** · 03-10-2010, 08:43 PM

did you say anything about tighting down the clamp that keeps it from shorting?

JNDcumminscowboy · 03-10-2010, 08:49 PM

the stering wheel is cocked to one side a bit i hate it will that fix my problem? Nice wright up I agree and the pics were most helpful

huntinguy · 03-10-2010, 11:21 PM

I call for a stickying!

97power ram · 03-11-2010, 08:37 PM

i dont understand why you need to file a spot if there is one already there

chevy_69k20 · 03-12-2010, 12:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 97power ram

i dont understand why you need to file a spot if there is one already there

there is just a hole in the splines, no grove. from the factory it had a pin go through everything, the new part just has a set screw which needs the groove to seat in.

***H.R.D*** · 03-12-2010, 12:19 AM

Nice write up for sure....

brownbear · 03-12-2010, 01:15 AM

I don't like the idea of a little screw instead of a pin going straight through. Why would they do that?

pratty85 · 03-13-2010, 08:46 AM

My Borgeson Shaft came in this weekend, I am about to do the install! Thanks for the write up and pictures, it will give me the upper hand in this one!

03-10-2010, 06:11 PM	#1 (permalink)
Ram Fan Newbie Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Vancouver B.C. Posts: 27 Thanks: 3 Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post iTrader Score: 0 reviews Ram Fan's Truck Pics	Borgeson Shaft Install with pics. I've been lurking and gleaning information from your archives for a while now and figured it was time I contributed something! This is pretty basic but maybe not for everyone and lord knows, I love pics as reference. So, you need, Hammer 7/32's drift punch Small pry bar 5/32's allen wrench 3/8ths 12 point socket and ratchet rag, loctite, WD 40 (good enough for NASA, good enough for my shop!) Before you start, obviously park so your tires are straight and the steering wheel is centered. First thing I did was give all the bolts at the top of the shaft connection a blast of WD to start penetrating the bolts. While that was setting up I disconnected the vacuum line coming from the brake booster to make it easier to get my hands in there. I also marked the rag joint with a paint marker for reference, Next I went underneath and knocked out the set pin on the steering box coupler. A little WD helped here as well. After that, a light pry with the bar and she slipped right off. After that I headed back up top to start undoing the rag joint. I ducked into the cab and turned the steering wheel over to lock to add resistance. Had to unlock and re-turn it to access the bolts on the other side. I undid them on the LOWER side at the rag joint and then backed out one safety bolt to allow me to slip the top of the bottom shaft off the connection. Once loose, pulled out the old shaft and as you can see....totally punched! Now the fun part...new shaft going in. Started at the top in reverse order. Slid the rag joint connection past the safety pin and did up the rag connections. Blue loctite is your friend here. Don't forget to tighten down the safety bolt! Now, unlock your steering wheel and make sure she is centered. Extend the lower part of the steering shaft and fit it onto the steering box splined shaft. Take note of where groove from original lock pin was as our new set screw does not want to be in there. Mine lined up so I slid the shaft coupler further towards the steering box to clear the groove. Tighten in new set screw to mark splines for filing. Pull steering shaft u joint off and hit the box splines with the file to create a flat spot for the set screw to seat in. (blurry photo but to the left of original groove) Once filed, slide u joint back onto splined shaft and crank in the set screw. (loctite is your friend here as well) Once tight, add the lock not. Finally slide collar up to the bottom of the rubber boot, tighten set screw to keep it in place and you should wind up with something that looks like this: Man, that is sexy! Once done, did a quick double check of everything and the test drive. The difference is unreal. A highly recommended upgrade. After 100 KM (60 miles) re check everything to make sure nothing has loosened. Hopefully this helps! __________________ 93 Ram 250 LE. Gold on Burgundy. Borgeson shaft, air bags, camper tie downs, trailer brakes and an RPM gauge.

03-10-2010, 06:24 PM	#2 (permalink)
JDiehl Cummins Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Dodge City Posts: 113 Thanks: 2 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Score: 0 reviews JDiehl's Truck Pics	Nice write up! Thanks for the pics. This thread will be a guide when I do the swap on my 92. __________________ O6, Mega Cab, 3500, G56, SRW, 2WD, PSM Intake, Amsoiled, Gutted Toruqe Tube, Pacbrake PRXB, Smarty SR. JDiehl

03-10-2010, 07:20 PM	#3 (permalink)
DieselSharker Diesel Head Join Date: May 2007 Location: McAllen, TX Posts: 1,575 Thanks: 302 Thanked 141 Times in 78 Posts iTrader Score: 0 reviews DieselSharker's Truck Pics	That looks pretty. Mine is pretty rusty by now but still works great and made it easy when I had to replace the input shaft seals on the steering box. __________________ Seven-Point-Three said: I'm not stirring the pot, I giving you guys time to prepare yourselves for international owning cummins at sled pulls for life SUPPORT YOUR VETERANS

03-10-2010, 08:43 PM	#5 (permalink)
*Orangeracer* I bleed Diesel Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Maryland Posts: 2,438 Thanks: 10 Thanked 17 Times in 15 Posts iTrader Score: 0 reviews Orangeracer's Truck Pics	did you say anything about tighting down the clamp that keeps it from shorting? __________________ selling a brand new rebuilt nv5600 4x4 out of a 2000. $4000 obo. Trade for first gen.

03-10-2010, 08:49 PM	#6 (permalink)
JNDcumminscowboy Cummins Nut Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Kingsville TEXAS Posts: 374 Thanks: 19 Thanked 8 Times in 6 Posts iTrader Score: 0 reviews JNDcumminscowboy's Truck Pics	the stering wheel is cocked to one side a bit i hate it will that fix my problem? Nice wright up I agree and the pics were most helpful __________________ ''1991 w250 LE 4x4 5 speed non Ic 3'' off the turbo 6'' tip'' pump turned up! Alot more "COAL ROLLING'' HX35 coming soon and single 7''stack

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03-10-2010, 11:21 PM	#7 (permalink)
huntinguy Diesel Freak Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Nebraska Posts: 622 Thanks: 4 Thanked 29 Times in 29 Posts iTrader Score: 0 reviews huntinguy's Truck Pics	I call for a stickying! __________________ 89 W-250 Flatbed 5 speed, cummins reman(95) non-I/C, 4" turbo back, AFC tuning. Fuel pin ground. More to come. Warming the globe since 1989

03-11-2010, 08:37 PM	#8 (permalink)
97power ram Cummins Enthusiast Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: indiana Posts: 202 Thanks: 2 Thanked 5 Times in 3 Posts iTrader Score: 0 reviews 97power ram's Truck Pics	i dont understand why you need to file a spot if there is one already there __________________ 1991 w250 non int,pump maxed,35" boggers,5spd swap,hx50,stock sticks,soon dual disc,gov spring, sticks

03-12-2010, 12:19 AM	#10 (permalink)
*H.R.D* Some-Sho Some-Go Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Las Cruces NM Posts: 1,671 Thanks: 17 Thanked 91 Times in 79 Posts iTrader Score: 0 reviews H.R.D's Truck Pics	Nice write up for sure.... __________________ -Jerrod- 2002 3/4 ton X-cab Short Box 4x4 5 speed, Volant CAI, Blue Chip VP44, Edge J/AHOT, PDR HX40, AD 100, CFM+, BD short shift, Noise Makers, Flo-Pro SS Duals... http://www.hotroddieselclub.com its the myspace for diesels!

03-12-2010, 01:15 AM	#11 (permalink)
brownbear Cummins Enthusiast Join Date: Nov 2009 Posts: 287 Thanks: 11 Thanked 9 Times in 9 Posts iTrader Score: 0 reviews brownbear's Truck Pics	I don't like the idea of a little screw instead of a pin going straight through. Why would they do that? __________________ '92 W350 4x4 LE Club Cab DRW auto, 138k, work in progress..

03-13-2010, 08:46 AM	#12 (permalink)
pratty85 Cummins Fan Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: fayetteville Posts: 88 Thanks: 6 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Score: 0 reviews pratty85's Truck Pics	My Borgeson Shaft came in this weekend, I am about to do the install! Thanks for the write up and pictures, it will give me the upper hand in this one! __________________ 92 W250 220k miles, EX-Cab, 4X4, A518 with potentiometer mod, 6" Skyjacker lift, 35's, injectors, tweaked pump, 5" stacks

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