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Anyone here have a ramcharger fuel tank? I think they are 34 gallons which is better than stock tanks, and shouldn't they just bolt in? How would it interfere with trailer hitches?
By the way, my fuel guage is not working properly. Is there a part on the tank sending unit that goes bad or something that would cause this?
1991 W350 SRW Getrag 360 4:10's 148k
Custom air intake, single 5" stack, pump turned up
I got one of those fancy-schmancy Ramcharger fuel tanks.
On the stock truck there is a crossmember that goes between the rear leaf spring mounts; that crossmember needs to be removed. You also need to remove a support brace that runs parallel to the frame and that connects to that crossmember. And you need to flatten a sheet-metal brace that's built into the bottom of the bed.
Then you need to bolt in the two crossmembers from the RamCharger; one goes in front of the tank, and one goes behind it. Depending on your hitch mount, the rear crossmember might interfere with things, or you might not need it.
Then you can use the straps that came with the RamCharger, but they won't fit too well. The tank mounts in our trucks at something of a funny angle, so the staps need to be lengthened through the use of a drop-down hook. Or you can fabricate new straps.
Considering that my drop down hooks popped out when I got rear-ended by a Corolla and then I drug my fuel tank across 400 feet of 91 Freeway, it might be a good idea to fabricate custom straps or to use safety chains just in case.
I cut out the Ramcharger's fuel door and welded it into the side of my bed for the stock appearance. To make room for the filler neck, you need to cut a couple slots in the bottom of the bed and weld a second bulge into the inside of the bed.
You also can use the heat shield from the RamCharger that goes in between the exhaust and the tank. Unless you have stacks or something.
The sender that comes with the RamCharger works on a slightly different ohm range than the one that comes with the truck, but it can still be hooked up on a switch so that you can read both tanks. When the R/C tank is full my truck's fuel gauge reads 1/8 tank before full, and when it's empty it reads 1/8 tank before empty.
Also, the tank's filler neck is smaller than the Diesel neck; you need to find a Diesel filler neck or else the Diesel pump won't fit. And the stock vents in the R/C tank are a bit too small for high rate Diesel pumps, so you can't go full flow with the big rig nozzles.
And the fuel lines in the sender are a bit smaller than what comes from the Diesel.
Actually, I would suggest finding a sender out of a Diesel vehicle, but I don't know if it'd fit in the tank. And if you were really concerned about it, it'd be cheaper to put a few lines through the tank with bulkhead fittings. Altough bulkhead fittings can also be expensive.
Total price for me was about $250 for the tank, crossmembers, fuel door, bulge, filler neck, heat shield and straps, then $500 for the welder guy to put in the fuel door, $50 for the 6-way fuel switch, and probably another $50 for the bolts and other little stuff I'm forgetting.
I am not obsessed with Sarah Jarosz.
Begle, thanks for the pics! :thumbsup I have a tank I'm trying to figure how to put in my '92. No box, so 1 less headache. I might put either a fuel pump to push to the front tank, or a bulkhead in each tank, and let them draw together.
I just got done making my brackets and straps yesterday. Today I painted the frame. I'll try to get some pics posted. My tank looks like Begle's, it's out of an '88 or '89 'charger. I'm going to use the in-tank pump and pump to the front tank. The gauge reads close to the same, so I'm adding a switch to go from one to the other.
How many lines come out the top? Are there 4 wires going from the top to down inside? Mine has 3 ports, return, drain, supply. Supply is from the pump, drain is the coil, it ends outside the plastic cup. I think drain is for when the dealer has to drain the tank, I don't know where it ends up on a 'charger. Return is the return, it has a venturi deal that forces fuel into the plastic cup.The pump on mine is down inside the cup, it has a sock on it. The guage sender is outside the cup with 2 wires. The pump has the other 2, and there is an extra pin in the plug.
I'll try to get a pic of that too.
I like it, if the pump goes bad, I'll put an inline on and hook the hose to the "drain" port, and swap the wires over.
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