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Old 11-13-2009, 12:53 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Question Front wheel bearings

Iím working on a swap project and just changed the Dana 44 front end out of my í82 and replaced it with a Dana 60 from a í90 to accommodate the CTD Iíll be putting in next.

The passenger side front wheel bearings are shot as I can wiggle the front hub like crazy and Iím working to pull the hubs off. In all the threads Iíve looked at everyone talks about the pronged socket that is needed for the lock nut. Mine doesnít have that. It just has a standard looking nut with a star shaped lock washer behind it with the inner nut behind that. Does anyone happen to know what size Iím looking for? I have the rounded end socket for the rear nut as I finished that one up tonight but it doesnít fit the front end.

Should I be worried about changing the inner axle seal while Iím in there? Iíve read they go out quite often.

Any help I can get would be great.
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Old 11-13-2009, 01:11 AM   #2 (permalink)
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i never have used a socket to do any of my retainers on m axles front or rear. i use a big screw driver and wedge inbetween the flats of the nut and teh hub inner wall adn turn the hub with a wrench on teh lug studs. works prefect for me everytime. if you want to take the spindle off its pressed on so i talked to a buddy that had a snap on socket that threads on to those threads and use a slide hammer and two wacks its off. i only had to do that so i could do my u joints while i was there. i would have changed the inner axle shaft seal but it is not on the out side its inside the differential! so that sucked. i took a big glob of rtv sealant and did a good sized bead on my axle shaft when i put it back in it formed enough of a lip to stop it leaking! good luck man
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Old 11-13-2009, 02:52 AM   #3 (permalink)
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on my 91 it had the same rounded nut (2 9/16) on the front and the back. maybe someone buggered it up trying to take it off with a chisel. Id change the hub seal, just takes a sec to knock it out and put a new one in.

you can look here and see the various options...

im not aware of any dana 60 with pressed on spindles. they're bolted on.
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Old 11-13-2009, 04:00 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I'd buy or borrow a socket to do the wheel bearing nuts; trying to torque the outer nut to 200 ft/lbs with a chisel is pretty sketchy and is likely to come loose.
That's what the previous owner of my truck did. The nuts backed off and chewed into the lockout hub because they weren't torqued properly...trying to find a new set of external lockout hubs wasn't easy or cheap.
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Old 11-13-2009, 06:58 PM   #5 (permalink)
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yeah find a socket or make one. i had read that the inner retainer is supposed to be 50ft lbs and back it off and torque it to 50 again. then the outer is 160. i cant say that these are dodge specs but they are specs from a dana 60 front axle from a chevy.

i used the chisel and it wasnt even close. 1000 miles and i could rock the wheel in and out with no problem when it was jacked up.
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Old 11-13-2009, 07:31 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Last edited by powerbrake; 11-13-2009 at 07:43 PM. Reason: had too much to drink and sounded like somebody who had too much to drink
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Old 11-14-2009, 01:32 AM   #7 (permalink)
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^Haha, at least you remembered posting...

Torque the inner nut to 35 and spin the wheel to set the bearing races, then back it off 1/4 to 1/2 a turn...enough that the wheel can spin quite freely but can't clunk around. Then install the locking ring and torque the outer nut to 160-205 ft/lbs. Spin it to make sure it isn't dragging from being too tight.
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Old 11-15-2009, 03:55 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Okay, got it off. Turns out it was the 2 9/16 straight socket to get it off. Had the rounded 2 9/16 on the back. Thanks to everyone for the help. So I've heard a lot of differences on the torque on the these. Looks like the last guy used the hammer and chisel method based on the marks on the lock nut. JBradley's post made sense as when I first got a hold of the passenger side tire I was sure the wheel bearings were shot but they look good and I was able to spin the inner nut off by hand! My haynes book tells me to torque to 50 ft/lbs and back it off 1/4 turn, install the lock washer and torque the lock nut to 50-80 ft/lbs so which is correct?

Last edited by BigSkyCountry; 11-15-2009 at 04:01 AM.
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Old 11-15-2009, 04:54 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I used the torque values suggested by the local (and highly recommended) 4x4 specialist. I know it doesn't jive with the Haynes, but I've had no problems so far and don't want any.
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Old 11-15-2009, 01:57 PM   #10 (permalink)
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i would recommend changing out the old seals. it takes morre than a few minutes but not much more. you need to drop the diff. that's no big deal and if you can change out an axle you have the knowledge to change out the seals. seeing as you have it apart i would change out the u joints too.
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Old 11-15-2009, 03:10 PM   #11 (permalink)
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per the service manual
50ft/lbs to seat the bearings... loosen.
re-tighten to 31-39ft/lbs while rotating.
back off 135-150 degrees to set the freeplay.
install tabbed lock washer
install and tighten the outer lock nut to 160-205ft/lbs
final bearing adjustment should be within 0.001 to 0.010 inch.

i usually put a tire on when torquing to put a little weight on the bearings to make sure they're seated right and the freeplay is within my shade tree spec...
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Last edited by wjones; 11-15-2009 at 03:13 PM.
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