Welcome to the Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum, the fastest growing Dodge Diesel Community on the internet.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us
Iím working on a swap project and just changed the Dana 44 front end out of my í82 and replaced it with a Dana 60 from a í90 to accommodate the CTD Iíll be putting in next.
The passenger side front wheel bearings are shot as I can wiggle the front hub like crazy and Iím working to pull the hubs off. In all the threads Iíve looked at everyone talks about the pronged socket that is needed for the lock nut. Mine doesnít have that. It just has a standard looking nut with a star shaped lock washer behind it with the inner nut behind that. Does anyone happen to know what size Iím looking for? I have the rounded end socket for the rear nut as I finished that one up tonight but it doesnít fit the front end.
Should I be worried about changing the inner axle seal while Iím in there? Iíve read they go out quite often.
i never have used a socket to do any of my retainers on m axles front or rear. i use a big screw driver and wedge inbetween the flats of the nut and teh hub inner wall adn turn the hub with a wrench on teh lug studs. works prefect for me everytime. if you want to take the spindle off its pressed on so i talked to a buddy that had a snap on socket that threads on to those threads and use a slide hammer and two wacks its off. i only had to do that so i could do my u joints while i was there. i would have changed the inner axle shaft seal but it is not on the out side its inside the differential! so that sucked. i took a big glob of rtv sealant and did a good sized bead on my axle shaft when i put it back in it formed enough of a lip to stop it leaking! good luck man
2003 Fuel by F1 & Floor It
Air by Holset, Garret & Hellman
Tranny by DTT & Floor It
Sold 93' Dodge W250 VE'D, 7x.014's, PS64
Banghart Diesel & S&S customs
on my 91 it had the same rounded nut (2 9/16) on the front and the back. maybe someone buggered it up trying to take it off with a chisel. Id change the hub seal, just takes a sec to knock it out and put a new one in.
I'd buy or borrow a socket to do the wheel bearing nuts; trying to torque the outer nut to 200 ft/lbs with a chisel is pretty sketchy and is likely to come loose.
That's what the previous owner of my truck did. The nuts backed off and chewed into the lockout hub because they weren't torqued properly...trying to find a new set of external lockout hubs wasn't easy or cheap.
yeah find a socket or make one. i had read that the inner retainer is supposed to be 50ft lbs and back it off and torque it to 50 again. then the outer is 160. i cant say that these are dodge specs but they are specs from a dana 60 front axle from a chevy.
i used the chisel and it wasnt even close. 1000 miles and i could rock the wheel in and out with no problem when it was jacked up.
Torque the inner nut to 35 and spin the wheel to set the bearing races, then back it off 1/4 to 1/2 a turn...enough that the wheel can spin quite freely but can't clunk around. Then install the locking ring and torque the outer nut to 160-205 ft/lbs. Spin it to make sure it isn't dragging from being too tight.
Okay, got it off. Turns out it was the 2 9/16 straight socket to get it off. Had the rounded 2 9/16 on the back. Thanks to everyone for the help. So I've heard a lot of differences on the torque on the these. Looks like the last guy used the hammer and chisel method based on the marks on the lock nut. JBradley's post made sense as when I first got a hold of the passenger side tire I was sure the wheel bearings were shot but they look good and I was able to spin the inner nut off by hand! My haynes book tells me to torque to 50 ft/lbs and back it off 1/4 turn, install the lock washer and torque the lock nut to 50-80 ft/lbs so which is correct?
Last edited by BigSkyCountry; 11-15-2009 at 05:01 AM.
i would recommend changing out the old seals. it takes morre than a few minutes but not much more. you need to drop the diff. that's no big deal and if you can change out an axle you have the knowledge to change out the seals. seeing as you have it apart i would change out the u joints too.
92 4x4, fuel screw turned in all the way, starwheel dropped to the bottom, 40 hp injectors, machined pin, detroit locker lets me smoke 'em evenly. auto meter pyro.
God Bless Our Country and Damn The Goverment
per the service manual
50ft/lbs to seat the bearings... loosen.
re-tighten to 31-39ft/lbs while rotating.
back off 135-150 degrees to set the freeplay.
install tabbed lock washer
install and tighten the outer lock nut to 160-205ft/lbs
final bearing adjustment should be within 0.001 to 0.010 inch.
i usually put a tire on when torquing to put a little weight on the bearings to make sure they're seated right and the freeplay is within my shade tree spec...
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.