NO Fault Codes

***unixcowboy*** · 10-31-2009, 03:06 PM

Yesterday, with rain,cold, and wind, I lost my speedo, OD, and Alt.....

Checked all fuses. They ohm zero. I pulled each one, checked it, then replaced it, then pulled it and replaced it again. Just to be sure there was not a flakey connection.

I suspect the CPS but cannot get my big mitts in to verify the gap. I 'feel' like it's ok because everything worked ok 'til I got to synagogue. When we got ready to leave I noticed the problem.
With the lights on - it was night - I drove the 12 mi back home watching the voltage drop from 11.8 down to 9.3.....Put the batt on charge overnight. This morning it was reading 13.2. Drove off to bible class and watched the volts drop to 11.8. Turned around and headed home. By the time I got home I was back down to 10.5V.

I am not getting fault codes when I do the key on/off thing.....NO check engine light. OH yes - NO WTS or WIF either. ABS comes on and park brake lights come on.....

Any ideas ??

__________________
'93 D250 CC HX-40 60/65/17 w/hx50 flange - hit 57 held 55 psi OOPS => 6x16's <=, 366 spring w/1 turn clipped, power screw bottomed-backed off 1/2 turn, Ol Smokey's power pin(modified), removed limit washer, smoke screw fully out, starwheel 4 up - modified top to get pin higher, '94 built trans - clutches and some hard parts, trans cooler in front of radiator, 4510 w/4 1/2" intake and heat shield, htr grids MIA, 4" dp -> 5" pipe -> 5" Stack, 285's rear 265's front

***unixcowboy*** · 10-31-2009, 03:19 PM

Update --

I put the batt on charge this am when I got back home...
About 2 1/2 hrs now....

Just went out to check and ALL lights work now. Didn't want to try the key on/off with the charger connected, but would just a low battery cause the problem ?

__________________
'93 D250 CC HX-40 60/65/17 w/hx50 flange - hit 57 held 55 psi OOPS => 6x16's <=, 366 spring w/1 turn clipped, power screw bottomed-backed off 1/2 turn, Ol Smokey's power pin(modified), removed limit washer, smoke screw fully out, starwheel 4 up - modified top to get pin higher, '94 built trans - clutches and some hard parts, trans cooler in front of radiator, 4510 w/4 1/2" intake and heat shield, htr grids MIA, 4" dp -> 5" pipe -> 5" Stack, 285's rear 265's front

***unixcowboy*** · 10-31-2009, 05:13 PM

Another Update .....

Just went out and the charger said FULL. Nice to have messages instead of the charger just sitting there stoopid...

Disconnected the charger and -- voila

I now have all my initial lights working - Park brake, WIF, WTS and ABS. AND my Check Engine light also..Plus I now get my key on/off fault codes - which show no problems.

Guess the battery was lower than I thought. It's been 5 - 6 mos since I topped off the battery. With all the town driving and starting and stopping the engine the batt drains - slowly, but it drains.

When the Fla - Ga game is over I'll take it for a test drive. Hopefully ALL the problems are gone.

__________________
'93 D250 CC HX-40 60/65/17 w/hx50 flange - hit 57 held 55 psi OOPS => 6x16's <=, 366 spring w/1 turn clipped, power screw bottomed-backed off 1/2 turn, Ol Smokey's power pin(modified), removed limit washer, smoke screw fully out, starwheel 4 up - modified top to get pin higher, '94 built trans - clutches and some hard parts, trans cooler in front of radiator, 4510 w/4 1/2" intake and heat shield, htr grids MIA, 4" dp -> 5" pipe -> 5" Stack, 285's rear 265's front

denman · 10-31-2009, 10:48 PM

Bad contact at the battery posts can give poor charging. I'd start at the alternator power connection (heaviest wire there), follow it to Voltage Regulator (if yours is external) then the starter connection than the battery posts. IIRC they are all in the charging circuit. Failing that, my money's on a kaput alternator. BTW the battery voltage (idling) aughta be 13.5-14.7V depending on what electrics are running.

__________________
1993 D350 DRW, Getrag G350, 760,000 km, CB, Sirius Sat radio, flat deck with headache rack.

***unixcowboy*** · 11-04-2009, 04:21 PM

Looks like I may have a bad CPS.....

When I verify the leads going TO the PCM with the cps unplugged the readings are ok - 8v and gnd on the proper leads. Obviously can't test the cps 5v signal.

Made a short jumper to connect the cps to the harness with bare wire coming out so I could test the cps with the engine running.
Results with the key on and engine not running - gnd is still there, 8v is gone and the 5v signal is gone also.
Same results with the engine running....

NOW - how do you replace that bugger???

One lousy bolt that I can't get to.
Does the fan shroud - and/or fan - need to come off?
Is there some way to get to the cps that doesn't involve disassembling the front of the truck and/or the engine??

__________________
'93 D250 CC HX-40 60/65/17 w/hx50 flange - hit 57 held 55 psi OOPS => 6x16's <=, 366 spring w/1 turn clipped, power screw bottomed-backed off 1/2 turn, Ol Smokey's power pin(modified), removed limit washer, smoke screw fully out, starwheel 4 up - modified top to get pin higher, '94 built trans - clutches and some hard parts, trans cooler in front of radiator, 4510 w/4 1/2" intake and heat shield, htr grids MIA, 4" dp -> 5" pipe -> 5" Stack, 285's rear 265's front

denman · 11-04-2009, 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by unixcowboy

Looks like I may have a bad CPS.....

When I verify the leads going TO the PCM with the cps unplugged the readings are ok - 8v and gnd on the proper leads. Obviously can't test the cps 5v signal.

Made a short jumper to connect the cps to the harness with bare wire coming out so I could test the cps with the engine running.
Results with the key on and engine not running - gnd is still there, 8v is gone and the 5v signal is gone also.
Same results with the engine running....

NOW - how do you replace that bugger???

One lousy bolt that I can't get to.
Does the fan shroud - and/or fan - need to come off?
Is there some way to get to the cps that doesn't involve disassembling the front of the truck and/or the engine??

I should maybe know this, but what's a cps?

__________________
1993 D350 DRW, Getrag G350, 760,000 km, CB, Sirius Sat radio, flat deck with headache rack.

Philip · 11-04-2009, 11:24 PM

Larry you can't test the CPS with the engine running. The only thing that will read the signal is a O scope.

Look this link over Larry

Testing Crank Position Sensor?

__________________
93 W350 w/duals, fuel pin turned, 6X.018" injectors, 4" exhaust, 3" air intake horn, Super HX40/16, auto, 3:07's axles, 2" skyjacker lift, B&W flatbed

***unixcowboy*** · 11-05-2009, 05:53 PM

Philip said "Larry you can't test the CPS with the engine running. The only thing that will read the signal is a O scope."
Duhhh, I shoulda knowed that .....Case of HUA

OK Philip, I dug out the old Tektronix and cut a nick in the signal insulation.
Key on, rotating the engine by hand I see the output go from ~ .4v to a solid 5V when the air gap comes up.
Tried syncing the scope with the engine running - could see flashes but was never able to get a square wave. Guess it's because it's not equal time on-off..
Didn't think to check if the scope can sync on the input signal. I'll check that tomorrow. Be a sure fire way to set the idle if I can.

Swapped the A/C relay with the ASD....Still no charging.

Checked the alternator terminals --
Same readings stopped key off and runing :
Main batt terminal = 12V + - a little
Both field terminals = 0V

Sound like an alternator ??
Any other checks to eliminate the alternator before I wire in an external regulator ?

__________________
'93 D250 CC HX-40 60/65/17 w/hx50 flange - hit 57 held 55 psi OOPS => 6x16's <=, 366 spring w/1 turn clipped, power screw bottomed-backed off 1/2 turn, Ol Smokey's power pin(modified), removed limit washer, smoke screw fully out, starwheel 4 up - modified top to get pin higher, '94 built trans - clutches and some hard parts, trans cooler in front of radiator, 4510 w/4 1/2" intake and heat shield, htr grids MIA, 4" dp -> 5" pipe -> 5" Stack, 285's rear 265's front

Philip · 11-05-2009, 08:09 PM

Check the ASD relay on the left fender well to see if the PCM is turning it on. Make sure you have main power to it also.

The readings you got on the CPS look good.

__________________
93 W350 w/duals, fuel pin turned, 6X.018" injectors, 4" exhaust, 3" air intake horn, Super HX40/16, auto, 3:07's axles, 2" skyjacker lift, B&W flatbed

***unixcowboy*** · 11-07-2009, 08:11 PM

What with the on again-off again rain and the low 40's this past week I didn't get much done....

But today - 65* sunshine -
I sure did...

Philip the ASD was not working. So I figured I could jump the contacts and do the same thing...NO WAY !
Finally broke down and cleaned a path to my workbench to get the FSM. Started thumbing thru for any pages related to the alternator and/or ASD.
After trying several things that did not work but pointed to the PCM, I figured it was too pretty a day to waste so I cleaned up the engine around the injectors.
Pulled the tools and got them all lined up. Took my pretty new 6x.016 sticks out and laid them next to the tools.

Then took a break for a cigarette and Bud.

Pulled the return line and washers and cleaned the line and bolts good. Then loosened the fuel lines from the mainfold and the injectors.
Those line do not want to move hardly at all.
Finally got the lines out of the way so I could get a socket over the injectors to loosen the hold down nut. Took all the nuts off and cleaned them.
Do you really need the dust washers in the top of the hold down nuts? 4 out of 5 split into little pieces. Naturally - the only thing I buy when I was getting parts.
Using the handy dandy injector puller http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/d...t124728p2.html made the job easy. Even the hard to get to #6.

Time for another cigarette and Bud.
Wait a minute....On page 6 of the wiring diagrams, didn't I see a fusable link TO the ASD???

Sure did...could it be open?? 10 min of cutting cable wrap and insulation later there it is - big black area on that pretty white fusable link. Gave it a tug, not real hard, and the insulation parted pretty as can be.
Strip off 3/4" on both ends and twist the ends together and crimp then with a pair of long nose.
Finish the Bud and

Popped the new sticks in, replaced the hold down nuts and snugged them to 44 ftlbs, reconnected the return line with new washers - just snugged the bolts, couldn't get the torque wrench into the small space. Actually tightened them literally finger tight - snugged them with a wrench then took the wrench with two fingers and my hand braced on the heater lines just tugged with fingers only....Must have worked - no leak.
Re-jiggled the fuel lines into position and finger tightened the nuts. Then primed the lift pump about 10,000 times or so - give or take

...
Tried starting and the battery was so low it the engine would only grunt.
OK - hook up the charger, grab another cigarette and Bud. The charger went to 15.4 amps charge...Battery was really low - ya think ???

College football on tv. Sounds like a good diversion.

Shortly after 5:30 went out and the battery is full. Insert key - hold breath - turn key.

Cough cough cough bam running at last...Revs nice and strong, I can even hear the turbo wind up when I tap the throttle...Idle is a bit lower than before, ~ 100 - 150 rpm.
Best part is the alternator is working

so I'm going to assume the OD and CC are also. Going to push my luck and take it out tomorrow morning. Bowling morning.
Might even punch it once or twice on the freeway

just to see how much smoke I get. I did not turn down the pump. It's still 1/2 turn down from runaway with the stock sticks, don't know where it'll be now.

Only thing left is to update my sig

One question Philip - Why did I never get fault codes from the PCM???

__________________
'93 D250 CC HX-40 60/65/17 w/hx50 flange - hit 57 held 55 psi OOPS => 6x16's <=, 366 spring w/1 turn clipped, power screw bottomed-backed off 1/2 turn, Ol Smokey's power pin(modified), removed limit washer, smoke screw fully out, starwheel 4 up - modified top to get pin higher, '94 built trans - clutches and some hard parts, trans cooler in front of radiator, 4510 w/4 1/2" intake and heat shield, htr grids MIA, 4" dp -> 5" pipe -> 5" Stack, 285's rear 265's front

Philip · 11-07-2009, 10:35 PM

The fuse link was for the power side of the ASD. The PCM doesn't monitor that. The PCM would see a bad ASD relay pull in coil.

__________________
93 W350 w/duals, fuel pin turned, 6X.018" injectors, 4" exhaust, 3" air intake horn, Super HX40/16, auto, 3:07's axles, 2" skyjacker lift, B&W flatbed

10-31-2009, 03:06 PM	#1 (permalink)
*unixcowboy* Diesel Freak Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Lansing, Mi Posts: 970 Thanks: 0 Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts unixcowboy's Truck Pics	NO Fault Codes Yesterday, with rain,cold, and wind, I lost my speedo, OD, and Alt..... Checked all fuses. They ohm zero. I pulled each one, checked it, then replaced it, then pulled it and replaced it again. Just to be sure there was not a flakey connection. I suspect the CPS but cannot get my big mitts in to verify the gap. I 'feel' like it's ok because everything worked ok 'til I got to synagogue. When we got ready to leave I noticed the problem. With the lights on - it was night - I drove the 12 mi back home watching the voltage drop from 11.8 down to 9.3.....Put the batt on charge overnight. This morning it was reading 13.2. Drove off to bible class and watched the volts drop to 11.8. Turned around and headed home. By the time I got home I was back down to 10.5V. I am not getting fault codes when I do the key on/off thing.....NO check engine light. OH yes - NO WTS or WIF either. ABS comes on and park brake lights come on..... Any ideas ?? __________________ '93 D250 CC HX-40 60/65/17 w/hx50 flange - hit 57 held 55 psi OOPS => 6x16's <=, 366 spring w/1 turn clipped, power screw bottomed-backed off 1/2 turn, Ol Smokey's power pin(modified), removed limit washer, smoke screw fully out, starwheel 4 up - modified top to get pin higher, '94 built trans - clutches and some hard parts, trans cooler in front of radiator, 4510 w/4 1/2" intake and heat shield, htr grids MIA, 4" dp -> 5" pipe -> 5" Stack, 285's rear 265's front

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10-31-2009, 03:19 PM	#2 (permalink)
*unixcowboy* Diesel Freak Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Lansing, Mi Posts: 970 Thanks: 0 Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts unixcowboy's Truck Pics	Update -- I put the batt on charge this am when I got back home... About 2 1/2 hrs now.... Just went out to check and ALL lights work now. Didn't want to try the key on/off with the charger connected, but would just a low battery cause the problem ? __________________ '93 D250 CC HX-40 60/65/17 w/hx50 flange - hit 57 held 55 psi OOPS => 6x16's <=, 366 spring w/1 turn clipped, power screw bottomed-backed off 1/2 turn, Ol Smokey's power pin(modified), removed limit washer, smoke screw fully out, starwheel 4 up - modified top to get pin higher, '94 built trans - clutches and some hard parts, trans cooler in front of radiator, 4510 w/4 1/2" intake and heat shield, htr grids MIA, 4" dp -> 5" pipe -> 5" Stack, 285's rear 265's front

10-31-2009, 05:13 PM	#3 (permalink)
*unixcowboy* Diesel Freak Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Lansing, Mi Posts: 970 Thanks: 0 Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts unixcowboy's Truck Pics	Another Update ..... Just went out and the charger said FULL. Nice to have messages instead of the charger just sitting there stoopid... Disconnected the charger and -- voila I now have all my initial lights working - Park brake, WIF, WTS and ABS. AND my Check Engine light also..Plus I now get my key on/off fault codes - which show no problems. Guess the battery was lower than I thought. It's been 5 - 6 mos since I topped off the battery. With all the town driving and starting and stopping the engine the batt drains - slowly, but it drains. When the Fla - Ga game is over I'll take it for a test drive. Hopefully ALL the problems are gone. __________________ '93 D250 CC HX-40 60/65/17 w/hx50 flange - hit 57 held 55 psi OOPS => 6x16's <=, 366 spring w/1 turn clipped, power screw bottomed-backed off 1/2 turn, Ol Smokey's power pin(modified), removed limit washer, smoke screw fully out, starwheel 4 up - modified top to get pin higher, '94 built trans - clutches and some hard parts, trans cooler in front of radiator, 4510 w/4 1/2" intake and heat shield, htr grids MIA, 4" dp -> 5" pipe -> 5" Stack, 285's rear 265's front

10-31-2009, 10:48 PM	#4 (permalink)
denman Cummins Fan Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Canada Posts: 61 Thanks: 4 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts denman's Truck Pics	Bad contact at the battery posts can give poor charging. I'd start at the alternator power connection (heaviest wire there), follow it to Voltage Regulator (if yours is external) then the starter connection than the battery posts. IIRC they are all in the charging circuit. Failing that, my money's on a kaput alternator. BTW the battery voltage (idling) aughta be 13.5-14.7V depending on what electrics are running. __________________ 1993 D350 DRW, Getrag G350, 760,000 km, CB, Sirius Sat radio, flat deck with headache rack.

11-04-2009, 04:21 PM	#5 (permalink)
*unixcowboy* Diesel Freak Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Lansing, Mi Posts: 970 Thanks: 0 Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts unixcowboy's Truck Pics	Looks like I may have a bad CPS..... When I verify the leads going TO the PCM with the cps unplugged the readings are ok - 8v and gnd on the proper leads. Obviously can't test the cps 5v signal. Made a short jumper to connect the cps to the harness with bare wire coming out so I could test the cps with the engine running. Results with the key on and engine not running - gnd is still there, 8v is gone and the 5v signal is gone also. Same results with the engine running.... NOW - how do you replace that bugger??? One lousy bolt that I can't get to. Does the fan shroud - and/or fan - need to come off? Is there some way to get to the cps that doesn't involve disassembling the front of the truck and/or the engine?? __________________ '93 D250 CC HX-40 60/65/17 w/hx50 flange - hit 57 held 55 psi OOPS => 6x16's <=, 366 spring w/1 turn clipped, power screw bottomed-backed off 1/2 turn, Ol Smokey's power pin(modified), removed limit washer, smoke screw fully out, starwheel 4 up - modified top to get pin higher, '94 built trans - clutches and some hard parts, trans cooler in front of radiator, 4510 w/4 1/2" intake and heat shield, htr grids MIA, 4" dp -> 5" pipe -> 5" Stack, 285's rear 265's front

11-04-2009, 11:24 PM	#7 (permalink)
Philip 1ST GEN MODERATOR Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Indiana Posts: 5,115 Thanks: 2 Thanked 131 Times in 121 Posts Philip's Truck Pics	Larry you can't test the CPS with the engine running. The only thing that will read the signal is a O scope. Look this link over Larry Testing Crank Position Sensor? __________________ 93 W350 w/duals, fuel pin turned, 6X.018" injectors, 4" exhaust, 3" air intake horn, Super HX40/16, auto, 3:07's axles, 2" skyjacker lift, B&W flatbed

11-05-2009, 05:53 PM	#8 (permalink)
*unixcowboy* Diesel Freak Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Lansing, Mi Posts: 970 Thanks: 0 Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts unixcowboy's Truck Pics	Philip said "Larry you can't test the CPS with the engine running. The only thing that will read the signal is a O scope." Duhhh, I shoulda knowed that .....Case of HUA OK Philip, I dug out the old Tektronix and cut a nick in the signal insulation. Key on, rotating the engine by hand I see the output go from ~ .4v to a solid 5V when the air gap comes up. Tried syncing the scope with the engine running - could see flashes but was never able to get a square wave. Guess it's because it's not equal time on-off.. Didn't think to check if the scope can sync on the input signal. I'll check that tomorrow. Be a sure fire way to set the idle if I can. Swapped the A/C relay with the ASD....Still no charging. Checked the alternator terminals -- Same readings stopped key off and runing : Main batt terminal = 12V + - a little Both field terminals = 0V Sound like an alternator ?? Any other checks to eliminate the alternator before I wire in an external regulator ? __________________ '93 D250 CC HX-40 60/65/17 w/hx50 flange - hit 57 held 55 psi OOPS => 6x16's <=, 366 spring w/1 turn clipped, power screw bottomed-backed off 1/2 turn, Ol Smokey's power pin(modified), removed limit washer, smoke screw fully out, starwheel 4 up - modified top to get pin higher, '94 built trans - clutches and some hard parts, trans cooler in front of radiator, 4510 w/4 1/2" intake and heat shield, htr grids MIA, 4" dp -> 5" pipe -> 5" Stack, 285's rear 265's front

11-05-2009, 08:09 PM	#9 (permalink)
Philip 1ST GEN MODERATOR Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Indiana Posts: 5,115 Thanks: 2 Thanked 131 Times in 121 Posts Philip's Truck Pics	Check the ASD relay on the left fender well to see if the PCM is turning it on. Make sure you have main power to it also. The readings you got on the CPS look good. __________________ 93 W350 w/duals, fuel pin turned, 6X.018" injectors, 4" exhaust, 3" air intake horn, Super HX40/16, auto, 3:07's axles, 2" skyjacker lift, B&W flatbed

11-07-2009, 08:11 PM	#10 (permalink)
*unixcowboy* Diesel Freak Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Lansing, Mi Posts: 970 Thanks: 0 Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts unixcowboy's Truck Pics	What with the on again-off again rain and the low 40's this past week I didn't get much done.... But today - 65* sunshine - I sure did... Philip the ASD was not working. So I figured I could jump the contacts and do the same thing...NO WAY ! Finally broke down and cleaned a path to my workbench to get the FSM. Started thumbing thru for any pages related to the alternator and/or ASD. After trying several things that did not work but pointed to the PCM, I figured it was too pretty a day to waste so I cleaned up the engine around the injectors. Pulled the tools and got them all lined up. Took my pretty new 6x.016 sticks out and laid them next to the tools. Then took a break for a cigarette and Bud. Pulled the return line and washers and cleaned the line and bolts good. Then loosened the fuel lines from the mainfold and the injectors. Those line do not want to move hardly at all. Finally got the lines out of the way so I could get a socket over the injectors to loosen the hold down nut. Took all the nuts off and cleaned them. Do you really need the dust washers in the top of the hold down nuts? 4 out of 5 split into little pieces. Naturally - the only thing I buy when I was getting parts. Using the handy dandy injector puller http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/d...t124728p2.html made the job easy. Even the hard to get to #6. Time for another cigarette and Bud. Wait a minute....On page 6 of the wiring diagrams, didn't I see a fusable link TO the ASD??? Sure did...could it be open?? 10 min of cutting cable wrap and insulation later there it is - big black area on that pretty white fusable link. Gave it a tug, not real hard, and the insulation parted pretty as can be. Strip off 3/4" on both ends and twist the ends together and crimp then with a pair of long nose. Finish the Bud and Popped the new sticks in, replaced the hold down nuts and snugged them to 44 ftlbs, reconnected the return line with new washers - just snugged the bolts, couldn't get the torque wrench into the small space. Actually tightened them literally finger tight - snugged them with a wrench then took the wrench with two fingers and my hand braced on the heater lines just tugged with fingers only....Must have worked - no leak. Re-jiggled the fuel lines into position and finger tightened the nuts. Then primed the lift pump about 10,000 times or so - give or take ... Tried starting and the battery was so low it the engine would only grunt. OK - hook up the charger, grab another cigarette and Bud. The charger went to 15.4 amps charge...Battery was really low - ya think ??? College football on tv. Sounds like a good diversion. Shortly after 5:30 went out and the battery is full. Insert key - hold breath - turn key. Cough cough cough bam running at last...Revs nice and strong, I can even hear the turbo wind up when I tap the throttle...Idle is a bit lower than before, ~ 100 - 150 rpm. Best part is the alternator is working so I'm going to assume the OD and CC are also. Going to push my luck and take it out tomorrow morning. Bowling morning. Might even punch it once or twice on the freeway just to see how much smoke I get. I did not turn down the pump. It's still 1/2 turn down from runaway with the stock sticks, don't know where it'll be now. Only thing left is to update my sig One question Philip - Why did I never get fault codes from the PCM??? __________________ '93 D250 CC HX-40 60/65/17 w/hx50 flange - hit 57 held 55 psi OOPS => 6x16's <=, 366 spring w/1 turn clipped, power screw bottomed-backed off 1/2 turn, Ol Smokey's power pin(modified), removed limit washer, smoke screw fully out, starwheel 4 up - modified top to get pin higher, '94 built trans - clutches and some hard parts, trans cooler in front of radiator, 4510 w/4 1/2" intake and heat shield, htr grids MIA, 4" dp -> 5" pipe -> 5" Stack, 285's rear 265's front

11-07-2009, 10:35 PM	#11 (permalink)
Philip 1ST GEN MODERATOR Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Indiana Posts: 5,115 Thanks: 2 Thanked 131 Times in 121 Posts Philip's Truck Pics	The fuse link was for the power side of the ASD. The PCM doesn't monitor that. The PCM would see a bad ASD relay pull in coil. __________________ 93 W350 w/duals, fuel pin turned, 6X.018" injectors, 4" exhaust, 3" air intake horn, Super HX40/16, auto, 3:07's axles, 2" skyjacker lift, B&W flatbed