Quote:
Originally Posted by edelbrock1
I have 2 trusted mechanics that I can source as much WMO as I want. I usually leave a metal 44 gallon drum (that is what we get here in Oz. 200 litres) at their shop. When it is full I just drop by and replace it with an empty one. I trust them to only put good used engine oil, none from blown engines or any that has water in it. WTF (waste transmission fluid) is good too. Helps thin out the WMO. Then I take it home, run it through my filtration system down to 1 micron. Then it is ready to go.
Most mechanics are glad to offload some of their waste oil.
But try and stay away from synthetics. They will burn ok, but tend to smoke, and I am certain that the mp/g drops. But at the end of the day it is free. Who cares if I loose a few m/pg..
From what I have read, it is better if you have an IDI motor. The newer direct injection and common rail systems dont like the WMO so much.
Do a test, go buy the cheapest old truck you can, slop some filtered WMO in the tank. keep upping the ratio till it starts to get hard to start from cold. I have heard some trucks will run on 90% WMO with no modifications. Keep a track of how much WMO you are burning, within a couple of months you will have saved enough to pay for the truck. Then if it blows up.. who cares?? but it wont.. it will go on stronger and longer, because the IP and injector system has some LUBE.
That is what I did, first off, I bought an old Isuzu 4cyl. for $900. Now I cant kill this little car. I still have it now and run it up to the shops, tow a trailer to pick up my WMO. She loves the slop that I put in the tank.
But again, this is only my opinion and experience. What I am saying is dont be scared to try some new things. Start at 5% for the first tank. see how it runs. 10% for the next. Keep going up till your truck tells you to stop.
The worst part about it is going to collect the oil, and then filter it. My missus used to whine all the time about the time I spent down the shed filtering the oil and going out collecting the oil. So I sent her off to fill my truck with shop diesel, close on $300 later she returned with nearly a tear in her eye. She had no idea that these things are so expensive to run. Seems she is a little happier now that she doesnt have to use her hard earned cash on diesel.
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Have you considered passing it through a centrifuge for filtration? That'd take care of any metals suspended that gravity didn't pull out from settling.
Edit:
BTW, I'm playing around with a dual tank setup on my truck. But the VP44 can't handle the heat due to the electronics being built into the pump. That said. I'll be migrating my setup over to my Samurai with a VW 1.6TD. All mechanical, so no issues!
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FBD 150 sticks, 3rd Gen HE351 retrofit, Hamilton 110lb valve springs, A1 head studs, 5" FBD exhaust, Isspro Boost and Drive pressure gauges, fuel pressure gauge, FP light, Mallory Comp 250 pump, 1/2" big line kit, Draw straw, TC lockup switch, Stealth VP plate, BD TC, BD VB, Billet input, Derale pan.
462hp and 920ft-lbs 11/14/09, I know I can get 500hp...
Last edited by patracy : 08-25-2008 at 11:22 PM.