Espar D5 Heater Install - Lots of Pics - Part 1

[Ahab]

I recently installed an Espar D5 coolant heater and took lots of pictures during the install, and wanted to share with anyone who was looking to install one, or anyone who just wanted some more information.

I purchased the Espar D5 at the Cummins store for $1217 CDN. I installed it myself as another Espar retailer wanted 8-9hr @$90/hr to install it.
Also, I find that no one cares about your vehicle as much as the owner does.

It took me 4.5hr to install, but keep in mind that I had just had two wisdom teeth taken out, so I was high on triazilam and three Tylenol T3's, and I had a mouth full of blood. I could probably do it in 3hr or less now that I am sober.
Or maybe it was the drugs that made it turn out so well??.....

On to the install:

This is what comes in the misc. parts box. Fittings, clamps, exhaust hose, wiring, controller, etc.


This is what comes in the heater box - just the heater itself, and nothing else.


Here is a close-up of the heater. Notice the air intake on top (the corregated tube) and the sealed electrical connector. You can also see the small fuel line at the bottom of the picture and the two large coolant in and out lines at the top of the picture. The mounting bracked is also premounted on the heater.


This is the controller that turns the unit on and off, both manually and at a set time. It is called the "mini timer" by Espar. Not to be confused with the "7 day timer".
It has a green lit display. A blue display is apparently also available.



This is the electrical wiring to go from the blower motor relay to the blower motor.


This is the wiring that has the blower motor relay, fuses for the heater/blower, power connections, controller connection, etc.


This is the key of the simplicity of the fuel supply - the y-fitting that attaches to the fuel return fitting on the supply module on top of the tank. The brass elbow is a compression fitting where the thin fuel line inserts into.
Note the clamp in not installed yet.



This is the small, and fairly rigid fuel supply line.


OK, thats all the parts - now on to the install. Thanks for hanging in there.

The heater unit installs on the inside of the frame rail on the drivers side. The bracket and holes already exist, so there is NO drilling required.


There is a raised boss that is threaded on the one side. The boss keys into a hole in the heater bracket.


And a unthreaded hole on the other side. The bolt "threads" the hole as you are screwing it in.


Here the heater is bolted into place with four screws - two in the upper part of the bracket, and two into the holes noted above. The heater does come quite close to the fuel tank.


I ran the stainless steel corregated exhaust hose over to the exhaust, tying it to the DPF pressure tubes using stainless steel zip-ties due to high heat while operating.


Here are the coolant In and Out lines. There are adapters from 3/4" to 5/8" ID coolant line, which I clamped using spring clamps for reliability. Note that the kit did NOT come with the 5/8" coolant line. About 16 feet total is required.


I ran the coolant lines along the frame, tying to the hard fuel lines using nylon zip-ties. You might also notice the electrical line tied to the coolant line - it goes to the heater connector.


The coolant line runs up the drivers side of the engine and over the rear of the engine.



The coolant return line goes to this swiveling elbow using the existing spring clamp.


The coolant supply, or "heated" line was connected directly to the heater core in nipple using the existing spring clamp.
It is the top hose. This was by choice to reduce the number of connections. The instructions suggest using a male to male nipple and connect to the hose coming off the heater core. I chose to go right to the heater core. It was difficult, but worth removing a couple joints.


Next I chose to run the electrical. I mounted the relay and fuses on the firewall in this location.


I ran the electrical into the cab thru what I think is the flange that is used if you have a manual transmission. You could go thru the steering opening if you have a manual.
A grommet was used to prevent and fraying, but all the wiring is in tough rubber sheathing.

This is where the wiring enters in the cab - shot from inside cab




Part two to follow.

Scott.

__________________
2009, 3500, Auto, QuadCab, Short Box, 4x4, Sport Package, EGR unplug at 50km, Intake baffle removal at 250km, Espar D5 Heater, Tidy Tank Fuel+Tool 75 Gallon Aux. Tank

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Last edited by Ahab : 09-07-2009 at 06:07 PM. Reason: add info

[Beech]

Why does it use coolant?, I thought it was a fuel/air heater.

__________________
It is never too late to have a happy childhood.
'09 3500 Laramie, DRW, Bushwacker fender flares, bushwacker bed rail caps, Pro-Flaps mud flaps, 5th wheel hitch & giant toolbox, extra badges, J&L Stainess Steel Running Boards (4), spray in bedliner, Unmolested.

[Ahab]

Beech - I guess I should have explained generally how it works.

The heater uses diesel fuel to fire a little flame burining in a chamber, then coolant is pumped around this chamber, heats up, then is circulated through the engine block/heater core. This heats the block for easier starting in cold temps.
There is a relay that turns on the blower motor which heats the inside of the cab without having to idle the engine.

Espar does make a diesel powered air heater that just heats the air in the cab, but this heater is the best of both worlds - heating the engine and the cab.

I should be working for Espar.....

Scott.

__________________
2009, 3500, Auto, QuadCab, Short Box, 4x4, Sport Package, EGR unplug at 50km, Intake baffle removal at 250km, Espar D5 Heater, Tidy Tank Fuel+Tool 75 Gallon Aux. Tank

[Beech]

Thanks Scott,

That's even better that it heats the engine also, well worth the money. Great installation you did!

__________________
It is never too late to have a happy childhood.
'09 3500 Laramie, DRW, Bushwacker fender flares, bushwacker bed rail caps, Pro-Flaps mud flaps, 5th wheel hitch & giant toolbox, extra badges, J&L Stainess Steel Running Boards (4), spray in bedliner, Unmolested.

[-lenny-]

Great pics Ahab. That truck is CLEAN, wow.

Oh yeah. It doesn't get cold enough in Van City for an Espar. You should send it to me!

__________________
08 MC 3500 68RFE
Mostly Stock

[TONKATOY2]

Ya the nice thing about the ESPAR is no cleaning windshields at -40C!!!! Also If you have an airdog or probably FASS you cann tee off the fuel line going into the FASS or airdog instead of dropping the tank again!!! Also If you are EGR and EGR cooler deleted you dont have to hook up the line to the coolant line going into the firrewall!! You can simply hook the lines up to the tube you used to bring coolant from the fron of the cooler to the back !!! Either way they both work great !!! I have done both on 2 different trucks !!! Congrats on the ESPAR!!! I am curious why someone in Vancouver would need an espar !!! Especially since you are completely stock!!!1 Temperatures dont get below freezing very often!!!

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2008 6.7l Mega, Banks CAI, 5" TB exh,5050 Aero Turbine,EGR deletes. BD COOL-IT IC & Tran Pan,Oasis diff Ram Head, AIRDOG 150, SMARTY S67ME,Edge INSIGHT,Amsoil BMK-25, SRT 10 Hood, Bshwkr flares, ESPAR Htr, 3.5" IC PIPE Drv & pass side, WCC Intake Horn

[Ahab]

Tonkatoy2 - I did not need to drop the tank to do the install. I easily managed to reach up and disconnect the return line and connect the Y connection.
I think that you still would need to run the coolant line into the heater core, even with a EGR delete? You don't have to connect the line right to it, you could use a fitting and hook it to the hose already connected to the heater core. That would make it a lot easier to reach.

And yes, it doesn't get that cold in Vancouver, but I have some trips in mind, so that is why I bought it.

Scott.

__________________
2009, 3500, Auto, QuadCab, Short Box, 4x4, Sport Package, EGR unplug at 50km, Intake baffle removal at 250km, Espar D5 Heater, Tidy Tank Fuel+Tool 75 Gallon Aux. Tank