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Old 04-27-2009, 05:14 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Injector Replacement How-To

Prepare your work station. Get the area VERY clean! I used a cookie sheet under a terry cloth to minimize the possibility of loosing the very small parts that are located in the injector. The total list of tools I used was a Flat head screw driver to help pry off the two lines going to the valve cover, an 8 and 10MM 1/4" drive sockets, a 15, 19 and 24MM wrenches, and a 24MM socket with a piece of 1/2" square stock to place a 1/2" wrench on. (No room for ratchet). And a wobbly 1/2" drive 4" extension with the 24MM socket and ratchet.

Personal preference is to use a 1/4" ratchet whenever working with these very small bolts.

Then remove the battery cables.

Remove top of valve cover using an 8MM socket. There are 6 Bolts

Top of valve cover and filter removed.

Remove 6 bolts to remove valve cover. 10MMsocket

Valve cover removed and injector harness unplugged.



Close up of #1 injector and rockers.




Number 4, 5 and 6. Refer to this in case the injector wires get mixed up.


Number 1, 2 and 3. Use an 8MM socket to remove wires.


The nut will stay on the wire due to the crimps that are seen here. These are not on tight, Be very gentle with them.


Remove all wires going to injectors. Then simply lift off the entire plastic spacer/wire harness and set it in the valve cover that is in a clean area setting upside down.


Number 1 with the spacer removed.


Using a 10 MM socket, remove the rocker.


Rocker removed, Notice there is 2 parts, the rocker assembly and the bridge. Use caution not to drop the bridge. The rocker assembly will not come apart of the bolt is left in the rocker as shown. (No danger of loosing more parts. Just grab a hold of it all and lift off)


Rocker removed showing the injector and the injector hold down clamp.


Using and 8MM socket, remove the 2 bolts holding down the injector clamp.


Unbolt the intake, (10MM socket. 6 Bolts) and slide it back. I chose to completely remove the injector fuel lines to aid in removal. Use a 19MM wrench to remove lines, and then a 24MM wrench to remove the fuel supply rod that is inside the head "under" the fuel supply line.


Notice the still dirty intake; I did my DPF delete at 10K miles. 12K miles later still looks the same.


Fuel supply rod, Grab onto it and give it a pull to release it. ("O" ring tension)


Pry up on the injector by using a clean well placed pry bar. There are several grooves in the injector that are suitable for this. There is not a lot of force needed to "pop" them out.


Injector and the clamp can now be removed. Notice the square shoulder and the round shoulder.
Cautionary note: DO NOT unscrew the top portion of the injector, the electrical side. There is no reason to do this, and you will not be able to re assemble it, rendering that injector useless.


Injector and clamp can only be placed together one way, notice the pin in the injector. The injector clamp can only be placed into the head in one direction, (makes install very easy, just pay attention to the square and round shoulders of the injector clamp)
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5" TBE, EGR & cooler delete, Edge w/ATT, CAI, Airdog 150, Frants oil filter. Smarty S-67ME 120HP fireball injectors.ARP 425 studs to 135#, II 64/71 Stage 2 VGT Turbo, Boost fooler, Homebrew tial 38MM wastegate.

Last edited by B-rock; 08-26-2013 at 02:52 PM.
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Old 04-27-2009, 05:15 PM   #2 (permalink)
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This is now what you should have on a CLEAN WORK SURFACE!!!. I have my truck key out of the ignition, the 2 bolts for the injector clamp, the injector itself, the fuel supply rod and fuel supply line threaded together so you can see how they assemble, the rocker (bolt is still in place) and the rocker bridge. Also notice the valve cover and plastic spacer/wire harness. Remember to keep it clean. I placed a cookie sheet on my work bench then covered the cookie sheet with a CLEAN white terry cloth. ALL tear down work to be done to the injector is done on this CLEAN work surface. There are VERY small parts that MUST NOT BE LOST!!


Injector placed in my vise using soft pads. There are flat spots on the injector that are suitable for this, or you can clamp a crescent wrench in the vise and use the crescent to hold the injector. I like my idea better.


Using a 15 MM wrench LOOSEN the injector tip. (Don’t forget to remove the copper washer) these are torque down to 50ft.lbs. So use some muscle to remove them.


Unscrew the injector tip collar only when you are working over the clean work surface. This shows the collar removed and the injector tip resting on the injector body. This is where the possibility of loosing VERY small parts CAN happen! Were talking SMALLLLLLLLL!!!!!


Injector tip removed


There are two pins located in the injector, if these fall out just place them back into the injector, Note there are similar (but different size)holes in the face so pay attention!




New injector tip stock tip, collar and the very small "puck" that is placed inside the injector tip collar. Can you see it?


I'm pointing to it.


That’s it; my dental pick is not magnetized. This small "puck" can be very difficult to deal with, the Diesel fuel will hold onto it also. This little "puck" will go inside the center of the injector tip collar, does not matter what side as long as it is laying in there flat.


By placing both injector tips next to each other I found it easiest to swap the collar and "puck that is inside the collar" over by gently pulling up on the collar and "drag" the collar over to the other injector. This would minimize the possibility of loosing the "puck" The collar will only go into the injector tip one way in case you happen to drop it or otherwise loose the orientation.


After the collar and "puck" have been swapped over place the tip back into the injector, screw the collar back on, place the injector back into the vise and torque down to 50 ft. lbs.


Notice the groove in the rocker seat next to the injector hole. This is where the round part of the injector clamp will go, remember the injector can only go into the clamp one way. Yes it really is that easy.

Install injector into the port remembering to re-install the copper washer. I chose to re-use mine after I thoroughly cleaned everything that was being re-used.

Pay attention to the rounded and square collar on the injector clamp, the round side goes next to the rocker seat. Insert the injector and clamp into the port. place a rag over the top of The injector and use some pressure to "pop" the injector down into its seat, you will hear and feel a definite "click" when it goes in. ( "O" ring tension) I chose to bolt down the injector to about 10inch pounds making sure the clamp is going down straight. I used the exhaust valve springs as a reference running my finger over the tops of the clamp and the spring.

Next I installed the fuel supply rod into the head, Note it will also only go in one way due to a "pin" located at the top. Place it back into the head and "pop" it in to seat the "O" ring. Once this is in tightened it down (I did not torque it just to what I thought was good) THEN go back and torque down the injector clamp. Making sure to follow proper torque procedures and alternate sides and you bring the toque value up to 44 inch pounds.

I chose to leave off all the fuel supply lines until I was completely finished. I had to use a few special tools to make removal of the fuel supply rod easier such as


And the hardest cylinder of them all was of course number 6. Removing the far back Lifting lug made the removal of the fuel supply line possible without special tools. This also makes removing and installing the rear plug on the rail MUCH easier!


15MM socket, 2 bolts.

Torque down the rocker arms to 27 Ft. Pounds.

DO NOT over tighten the wires on the top of the injector; doing so will destroy your injector. Remember how they felt when you unscrewed them! Don’t over tighten.

I reinstalled my fuel supply lines starting with number 6 and working forward. Note that number 4 crosses over number 5 onto the fuel rail. I did not torque these down, Just to where I thought they were "good"

After is it all bolted together and you have Double and triple checked that everything is good to fire up, I would recommend having an assistant wearing safety glasses watch for any possible issues while you crank the engine over. I cranked for about 10 seconds then again for another 5 before it started, with a big poof of stinky brown smoke it was alive and running Great! No prime is required, just let the pump push the fuel threw to the injectors.
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'08 6.7L 4 door 4x4 LB. Mineral gray. Lorenz bilstein leveling kit with DP leafs. SRT hood. 5K HID's
5" TBE, EGR & cooler delete, Edge w/ATT, CAI, Airdog 150, Frants oil filter. Smarty S-67ME 120HP fireball injectors.ARP 425 studs to 135#, II 64/71 Stage 2 VGT Turbo, Boost fooler, Homebrew tial 38MM wastegate.

Last edited by B-rock; 03-30-2012 at 05:20 PM.
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Old 04-29-2009, 02:12 AM   #3 (permalink)
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is this only for the 6.7 or will this work for the 5.9 too?
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Old 04-29-2009, 02:31 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I see no reason why this will not work for a 5.9. Much of the dissasembly is the same, As far as I know the 5.9 does not have the tiny "puck" that the 6.7 does.
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'08 6.7L 4 door 4x4 LB. Mineral gray. Lorenz bilstein leveling kit with DP leafs. SRT hood. 5K HID's
5" TBE, EGR & cooler delete, Edge w/ATT, CAI, Airdog 150, Frants oil filter. Smarty S-67ME 120HP fireball injectors.ARP 425 studs to 135#, II 64/71 Stage 2 VGT Turbo, Boost fooler, Homebrew tial 38MM wastegate.

Last edited by B-rock; 04-29-2009 at 02:37 AM.
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