6.7 EGR Test Results are finally completed READ it!!!!

Polaraco · 11-23-2008, 09:08 PM

Hi All

Many of you know I have been trying different things with the EGR. The mission was to try to fool the EGR to think it was working while leaving it totally stock looking.

Here goes.

Test 1
Unplugging stock EGR

Just unplugging the EGR is very effective by itself. However it is not conclusive to removing all the soot from the intake. The EGR valve bleeds off the soot and condensation as you drive. It's possible it only does it when the exhaust brake is in use. But I am pretty sure, high speeds has enough pressure to push the valve open, defeating the purpose, but it's better than nothing.

Test 2
Complete removal

This is the best way to do it. All the other attempts to fool it were failures.

Test 3
Blocking the EGR Valve

This is a good idea, but soot piles up on the blocker plates. Condensation piles up as well. Test Run was 500 miles

I tried drilling some bleeder holes in the plates, but they weren't enough. While there was no condensation, the soot was still there. In 500 miles, the weep hole did reduce the soot some.

Test 4
Complete Blocking EGR System

I then plugged the end of the cross over tube with a freeze plug. Dorman #555-020 This worked well, maintained the stock look. I made new blocker plates and put them in with the tube plugged.

Test 5
Partial blocking EGR

I drilled a 1/16 hole in the end of the Cross Over plug and re-installed the bleeder plates. I plugged in the EGR. This worked for about 30 miles, but threw the truck into a frenzy, causing it to go into Regen with the Code Free Gen 2 in place.

I enlarged the same hole to 5/16 and tried it again. Same results, but in 45 miles.

My next step was to put the flapper back in. This ran for about 150 miles, then the truck went into a limp mode. Had to unplug the EGR to get the truck back on line.

So the final conclusion is the EGR cannot be mechanically fooled. For the best results, completely delete it or put the freeze plug and blocker plates in the system so it looks real. But I warn you, the truck will get squirrelly with the valve plugged in.

Just unplugging it works, but not complete. With it just unplugged, the following was observed.
*Lower intake temps by 20 to 25 degrees
*Lower EGT's by as much as 200 Degrees
* Longer warm ups
* Exhaust gas is still leaking into the intake. A complete block will reduce the EGT's by 50 degrees and the intake by 5 to 10 degrees.

So my test #2 and #4 is the best of all. I suggest you all follow suit to achieve the best results.

Now I have to figure out how to get that plug out of my cross over so I can replug it

blackclouddiesel · 11-23-2008, 09:18 PM

Awesome test Polarco! Should be a sticky for the newbies.

__________________
08 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 cummins, 4x4,3.73 LS, Q/C, S/B, SLT, electric blue, AQ flash, stock for now

Homemade ABS Intake, EGR unplugged. 15.350 before the intake.

Polaraco · 11-23-2008, 09:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blackclouddiesel

Awesome test Polarco! Should be a sticky for the newbies.

Thanks! :thumbsup

Gotta teach them to help themselves first

blackclouddiesel · 11-23-2008, 09:43 PM

LMAO! Very true!

__________________
08 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 cummins, 4x4,3.73 LS, Q/C, S/B, SLT, electric blue, AQ flash, stock for now

Homemade ABS Intake, EGR unplugged. 15.350 before the intake.

***Compcowboy*** · 11-23-2008, 09:59 PM

Good info Steve. Glad someone tried several methods and posted results.

__________________
691 Hp 1200+ Tq - 2007 6.7 TWIN TURBO DUAL CP3 2500 Bighorn 4x4 6-spd Manual, 64/71/14 over a S400, Airdog 150, ARP Head Studs, TS MP-8, Airbags with Dual Control Air Comp., H&S Delete & Downpipe, What EGR?, Valair Dual Disk, Amsoil Bmk-11 Bypass, 295/70/R17 Toyos on Walker Evans Wheels,6" Aussies & Hushpower Muffler & DiProcol Gauges & 120HP nozzles (Installed!) Thanks to Wally At FTEDiesel!!!!! PMT is gone, Smarty is Gone!, H&S TO THE RESCUE!

Black Maxx on the way.

***409Cummins*** · 11-23-2008, 10:04 PM

nicely done steveo :thumbsup

__________________

Nathan

08 2500 RCLB Flame Red 4x4 6.7L G56- Smoked, Tinted, Line-X'ed, AEM Brute Force

91 W250 RCLB 2 Tone Silver 5.9L 727 Non IC- Leveled, 33s, Str8 Pipe, Pump Cranked

***aaronesq*** · 11-23-2008, 11:29 PM

very cool! :thumbsup

needs to be made a sticky...or at least integrated into one of comp's stickys.

__________________
'07.5 3500 SLT 6.7L G56 QC LB, Airaid CAI, PMT-1017g, T&CDiesel Fuel Rail, 5" TBE, DIY DPF/EGR/Cooler Delete, Lorenz 2.25 Suspension, Rollin on Stockers

***RATLIN'HP*** · 11-23-2008, 11:32 PM

Thanks bud. Is it just a brass freeze plug, and how do you get it in? Just beat it? Sorry for the stupid questions, but I got get my crossover blocked.

__________________
2008 Mega Dually 3500. 6spd Auto, 3.73's, 4x4. Truxedo Bed Cover. Stainless Oval Tubes. SMARTY, 4" TBE, 5" Tip. Debaffled Air Tube. AFE Pro Dry Drop-In. Prodigy Brake Control. Autometer Phantom Boost And Pyro. Fleetgaurd Remote Fuel Water Sep. and 2 Micron Filter.

john_ak · 11-23-2008, 11:33 PM

Any pics???

__________________

'07 2500 Quad Cab 4X4 6.7 6spd Auto, Airaid intake, 5" TBE to 6" mitres

***azpyroguy*** · 11-23-2008, 11:39 PM

So if I understand it correctly in Test #4, was to leave the EGR un plugged, but block the tube with a freeze plug.

As a couple others have asked, how does the freeze plug stay in place?

I think this option sounds like the best one.

__________________
Scott (AzPyroGuy)
2007 Dodge Ram 3500 QC DRW, 6.7 Cummins, AirAid Airbox, H&S 4" TBE-BlackMaxx-Complete EGR Delete, RBP Tailpipe, EBC Yellow/Green Stuff Rear Brakes, BM Engineering Wastegate, HID Lights, Panasonic Deck, Sirius, Rockford 3Sixty.2, Power Series Mids/Highs/Amps, ProBox Rocks Dual 10" subwoofers.

Last edited by azpyroguy : 11-23-2008 at 11:41 PM.

Polaraco · 11-23-2008, 11:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by john_ak

Any pics???

No
Didn't bother. You shouldn't need them for what I did

***slagburn*** · 11-23-2008, 11:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by john_ak

Any pics???

Here are mine... bear in mind that I'm way too lazy to source up a $.99 freeze plug.

EGR tube plug (and other EGR nastiness)

__________________
07.5, 6.7, Auto, QC, 4x4, Lots of gauges - ISSPRO (Pyro, Boost, Trans Temp) PriCol Optix (Fuel Pressure Lift/Rail) AutoMeter (Oil Pressure) - Dynatrac Free-Spin Hub Conversion Kit - RETRAX bed cover - homebrew stealth shaved bluetec badge - plugged up EGR - Baldwin BF1212 water separator and CAT 1R0750 fuel filter - MSD Dashhawk - Baldwin B164 Bypass Filter - BD SBS - TS MP8
When a strong man armed keepeth his palace, his goods are in peace - Luke 11:21

11-23-2008, 09:08 PM	#1 (permalink)
Polaraco Banned Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 4,804 Thanks: 11 Thanked 10 Times in 8 Posts Polaraco's Truck Pics	6.7 EGR Test Results are finally completed READ it!!!! Hi All Many of you know I have been trying different things with the EGR. The mission was to try to fool the EGR to think it was working while leaving it totally stock looking. Here goes. Test 1 Unplugging stock EGR Just unplugging the EGR is very effective by itself. However it is not conclusive to removing all the soot from the intake. The EGR valve bleeds off the soot and condensation as you drive. It's possible it only does it when the exhaust brake is in use. But I am pretty sure, high speeds has enough pressure to push the valve open, defeating the purpose, but it's better than nothing. Test 2 Complete removal This is the best way to do it. All the other attempts to fool it were failures. Test 3 Blocking the EGR Valve This is a good idea, but soot piles up on the blocker plates. Condensation piles up as well. Test Run was 500 miles I tried drilling some bleeder holes in the plates, but they weren't enough. While there was no condensation, the soot was still there. In 500 miles, the weep hole did reduce the soot some. Test 4 Complete Blocking EGR System I then plugged the end of the cross over tube with a freeze plug. Dorman #555-020 This worked well, maintained the stock look. I made new blocker plates and put them in with the tube plugged. Test 5 Partial blocking EGR I drilled a 1/16 hole in the end of the Cross Over plug and re-installed the bleeder plates. I plugged in the EGR. This worked for about 30 miles, but threw the truck into a frenzy, causing it to go into Regen with the Code Free Gen 2 in place. I enlarged the same hole to 5/16 and tried it again. Same results, but in 45 miles. My next step was to put the flapper back in. This ran for about 150 miles, then the truck went into a limp mode. Had to unplug the EGR to get the truck back on line. So the final conclusion is the EGR cannot be mechanically fooled. For the best results, completely delete it or put the freeze plug and blocker plates in the system so it looks real. But I warn you, the truck will get squirrelly with the valve plugged in. Just unplugging it works, but not complete. With it just unplugged, the following was observed. Lower intake temps by 20 to 25 degrees Lower EGT's by as much as 200 Degrees * Longer warm ups * Exhaust gas is still leaking into the intake. A complete block will reduce the EGT's by 50 degrees and the intake by 5 to 10 degrees. So my test #2 and #4 is the best of all. I suggest you all follow suit to achieve the best results. Now I have to figure out how to get that plug out of my cross over so I can replug it

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11-23-2008, 09:18 PM	#2 (permalink)
blackclouddiesel Cummins Enthusiast Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Emmett, ID Posts: 289 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts blackclouddiesel's Truck Pics	Awesome test Polarco! Should be a sticky for the newbies. __________________ 08 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 cummins, 4x4,3.73 LS, Q/C, S/B, SLT, electric blue, AQ flash, stock for now Homemade ABS Intake, EGR unplugged. 15.350 before the intake.

11-23-2008, 09:43 PM	#4 (permalink)
blackclouddiesel Cummins Enthusiast Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Emmett, ID Posts: 289 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts blackclouddiesel's Truck Pics	LMAO! Very true! __________________ 08 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 cummins, 4x4,3.73 LS, Q/C, S/B, SLT, electric blue, AQ flash, stock for now Homemade ABS Intake, EGR unplugged. 15.350 before the intake.

11-23-2008, 09:59 PM	#5 (permalink)
*Compcowboy* Washington Chapter Vice President Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Kennewick, Wa Posts: 4,979 Thanks: 1 Thanked 13 Times in 13 Posts Compcowboy's Truck Pics	Good info Steve. Glad someone tried several methods and posted results. __________________ 691 Hp 1200+ Tq - 2007 6.7 TWIN TURBO DUAL CP3 2500 Bighorn 4x4 6-spd Manual, 64/71/14 over a S400, Airdog 150, ARP Head Studs, TS MP-8, Airbags with Dual Control Air Comp., H&S Delete & Downpipe, What EGR?, Valair Dual Disk, Amsoil Bmk-11 Bypass, 295/70/R17 Toyos on Walker Evans Wheels,6" Aussies & Hushpower Muffler & DiProcol Gauges & 120HP nozzles (Installed!) Thanks to Wally At FTEDiesel!!!!! PMT is gone, Smarty is Gone!, H&S TO THE RESCUE! Black Maxx on the way.

11-23-2008, 10:04 PM	#6 (permalink)
*409Cummins* Diesel Freak Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Grove City, Ohio Posts: 879 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post 409Cummins's Truck Pics	nicely done steveo :thumbsup __________________ Nathan 08 2500 RCLB Flame Red 4x4 6.7L G56- Smoked, Tinted, Line-X'ed, AEM Brute Force 91 W250 RCLB 2 Tone Silver 5.9L 727 Non IC- Leveled, 33s, Str8 Pipe, Pump Cranked

11-23-2008, 11:29 PM	#7 (permalink)
*aaronesq* 6.7 = lil bit of heaven Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Eastern Oregon Posts: 331 Thanks: 0 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts aaronesq's Truck Pics	very cool! :thumbsup needs to be made a sticky...or at least integrated into one of comp's stickys. __________________ '07.5 3500 SLT 6.7L G56 QC LB, Airaid CAI, PMT-1017g, T&CDiesel Fuel Rail, 5" TBE, DIY DPF/EGR/Cooler Delete, Lorenz 2.25 Suspension, Rollin on Stockers

11-23-2008, 11:32 PM	#8 (permalink)
*RATLIN'HP* Diesel Head Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 1,400 Thanks: 2 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts RATLIN'HP's Truck Pics	Thanks bud. Is it just a brass freeze plug, and how do you get it in? Just beat it? Sorry for the stupid questions, but I got get my crossover blocked. __________________ 2008 Mega Dually 3500. 6spd Auto, 3.73's, 4x4. Truxedo Bed Cover. Stainless Oval Tubes. SMARTY, 4" TBE, 5" Tip. Debaffled Air Tube. AFE Pro Dry Drop-In. Prodigy Brake Control. Autometer Phantom Boost And Pyro. Fleetgaurd Remote Fuel Water Sep. and 2 Micron Filter.

11-23-2008, 11:33 PM	#9 (permalink)
john_ak Cummins Nut Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Newark, Ohio Posts: 306 Thanks: 8 Thanked 6 Times in 5 Posts john_ak's Truck Pics	Any pics??? __________________ '07 2500 Quad Cab 4X4 6.7 6spd Auto, Airaid intake, 5" TBE to 6" mitres

11-23-2008, 11:39 PM	#10 (permalink)
*azpyroguy* Failure is NOT an Option! Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Surprise, AZ Posts: 419 Thanks: 10 Thanked 25 Times in 22 Posts azpyroguy's Truck Pics	So if I understand it correctly in Test #4, was to leave the EGR un plugged, but block the tube with a freeze plug. As a couple others have asked, how does the freeze plug stay in place? I think this option sounds like the best one. __________________ Scott (AzPyroGuy) 2007 Dodge Ram 3500 QC DRW, 6.7 Cummins, AirAid Airbox, H&S 4" TBE-BlackMaxx-Complete EGR Delete, RBP Tailpipe, EBC Yellow/Green Stuff Rear Brakes, BM Engineering Wastegate, HID Lights, Panasonic Deck, Sirius, Rockford 3Sixty.2, Power Series Mids/Highs/Amps, ProBox Rocks Dual 10" subwoofers. Last edited by azpyroguy : 11-23-2008 at 11:41 PM.