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6.7L PowertrainDiscussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine, Transmission, etc...NO ADVERTISING
I've worked rather obsessively to understand this truck and keep it happy. I've used Edge and DashHawk technology to monitor every aspect, and I've even been designing my own software to monitor all the parameters (including many Chrysler specific ones) and tracking trends by graphing combinations from my data in an sql database. My wife thinks I'm nuts.
I can tell the load on the DPF and NOx adsorber, and I have maintained the filters in good shape. I exercise the exhaust brake (EB) all the time, and I avoid idling. I have checked the crossover tube for soot accumulation, and I've been pleased to see that it's never bad.
Yet at 15500 I'm now getting my second round of p2262 codes. Had my turbo replaced at 6500 miles the first time after a good mix of hwy, city, and camper towing without much idling.
I just completed a 5600 mile round trip run from SC to UT to SC over two weeks. I ran 75-80 mph all the time with many hundreds of miles per day. When it regened, I droped to 55-60mph and watched the numbers to make sure it regened well. My monitors all look good, and my truck runs great.
Two days after returning, the p2262 starts again. If the last 5000 miles of hard hwy driving can't keep the soot out of the turbo, I don't know what kind of driving will ever succeed. I guess it's time to block that EGR, but considering the crossover tube is fairly clean, I don't believe the turbo is that full of soot.
Sorry you're still seeing more problems. There's a new document posted in another thread. The article claims Cummins actually wants you to "drive it like you stole it" to keep the turbo functioning right. Here is a diagram used in the article and a short quote.
"In this picture the vane is closed. Exhaust gas flow is restricted and, thus, the turbocharger is acting like an exhaust brake. Allow the vane to move to the right and the exhaust gas flow is “full-on” spinning the turbine exhaust) blades of the turbocharger.
As engineers, we think you purchase the diesel engine and use it hard. The reality is that the engine can be idled for long periods and used to putter around. Remember, the fireside chat that I discussed—a hot fire is maximum effi ciency and is minimal soot. So, I say to you, “Run the engine like you stole it!” But, as a consumer of $5.00/gallon diesel fuel, you say, “No!” Let’s strive for a happy medium—Don’t be afraid to put the pedal to-the-metal to help reduce the accumulation of soot."
Until I saw this diagram I thought the EB actuator pushed the VGT vane the same direction as it would move when the motor wanted full boost. Now I see the you need to force full boost regularly to help scrape the soot out of the housing. Regardless, the trucks sure are troublesome.
Ya know, I would love to drive my truck like I stole it all the time, but watching the fuel gauge race towards empty is not fun. Also, I would be replacing my 48RE regularly, and I don't think that would be fun either. Also, I don't like the turbo bark I get on occassion. Also, I am not a fan of speeding tickets. Also, I don't want to replace my break pads every other month. Also, $200 a piece or more for tires on a regular basis would not be enjoyable. I could go on and on.
I removed and cleaned my turbo yesterday, the right way, no drill and tap nonsense. I'll post about the process later, but it was a disgusting mess! DELETE the egr and you'll be fine. The turbo is NOT the problem, it's the result of the EGR's evil doings.
remove and clean your turbo, delete the dpf and egr @ the same time and you'll never have another 2262. Mine went away yesterday.
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John
'08 3500 Mega SRW 6.7 Auto Terra Services
After my last trip to the dealer for the 2262 code (10 days ago), my truck seems to be running better. It really doesn't make sense. I already had the latest flash, my mileage hasn't changed at all, the truck makes strange noises at unusual times and it is noticeably louder (engine noise and exhaust)......but it does run better.
As for the article mentioned above, funny how they don't address poor mileage nor the long term effects of the increase soot load (read -- dirt sucked through the motor!) on internal engine components. I don't see how we're going to get 300K plus miles out of this motor with that much dirt going through it.
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2007.5 2500 4X4 Quad Cab 6.7L Len
Until I saw this diagram I thought the EB actuator pushed the VGT vane the same direction as it would move when the motor wanted full boost. Now I see the you need to force full boost regularly to help scrape the soot out of the housing. Regardless, the trucks sure are troublesome.
It's good to know that full movement of the vane requires moving from full EB to full boost. The thing is, I wasn't kidding in another post when I said my truck has two states: either the pedal is on the floor, or the EB is slowing it down! Ok, maybe it's a slight exaggeration, but I've enjoyed the excuse to drive it hard. Plus my crossover isn't really sooted up. So I'm confused how the turbo could be so dirty unless it collects the soot regardless of how you drive it. I won't know I guess without removing it and cleaning it.
Since the cleaning port hasn't worked for Chrysler, I guess the question is whether or not a cleaning will really fix it or if it has become damaged in some way by the time you see the 2262 come on.
I removed and cleaned my turbo yesterday, the right way, no drill and tap nonsense. I'll post about the process later, but it was a disgusting mess!
I'd like to see your post about the process. Removing the turbo might be a little more than I'm up to. It says in one of the TSBs that to remove the turbo you have to remove an engine mount and jack the engine sideways. I'm hoping you did it like another post by just removing the wheel cover. Either way, I'm interested in any info about it.
In another thread I saw an eBay listing for 6.7 turbos that came off due to 2262 problems going for less than $200. A masochist could buy a spare turbo, clean it and swap them back & forth as each new cycle of sooting developed. Personally I'll force Cummins/Dodge to keep replacing mine until they get a new design. Of course they might go bankrupt first (Chrysler).
I removed and cleaned my turbo yesterday, the right way, no drill and tap nonsense. I'll post about the process later, but it was a disgusting mess! DELETE the egr and you'll be fine. The turbo is NOT the problem, it's the result of the EGR's evil doings.
remove and clean your turbo, delete the dpf and egr @ the same time and you'll never have another 2262. Mine went away yesterday.
How did the cleaning go john? Did you have any problems assembling it back?
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