08's 4wd front axle uses a ONE piece Tied Rod

[Teen wolf]

Thanx for the info diesel tech.....don't get too far off!!!!

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06 black mega 4x Billet auto shiftenhansed D preditor tuff 5" 37's B special fooler riderites custom airbag muff delete redline catylist, Commander , AR-15..etc...."True Outlaws can survive"

[kupecda]

The problem is how to I get them to Warranty one that is perfectly good?

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2008 Ram 3500 SLT QuadCab LB SRW 4x4 6.7L G56 Light Khaki
DiPricol Optix(Pyro/Boost/Diff Temp), Line-X, B&W Turnover Ball, ProTech, PacBrake Air Springs, HBS 2" leveling kit, MagHytec Rear, Willmore Wheel-to-Wheels, High Idle enabled, JakeBrake EB switch, 276hp 510ft-lb

[milo12]

Damn! My '08 has the old setup. Is the new hardware ok to bolt up to an old wheel spindle and steering arm?

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2008 Dodge 3500 SRW Quadcab LB 4x4 Mineral Grey, Auto, 3.73, 6.7L Cummins. Lorenz suspension. Thuren trackbar, Toyo 35 M/T. HID's. All deletes. PMT. Aeroturbine 4040XL muffler.

[milo12]

I think Thuren has had that setup available for years.

Thuren Fabrication- Crossover steering kits

Time to get out the checkbook.

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2008 Dodge 3500 SRW Quadcab LB 4x4 Mineral Grey, Auto, 3.73, 6.7L Cummins. Lorenz suspension. Thuren trackbar, Toyo 35 M/T. HID's. All deletes. PMT. Aeroturbine 4040XL muffler.

[Hot Stuff]

Any updates on this setup from dodge??? Anybody running it yet???

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Adam- '03 Black 2500 QC LB 4x4, H.O. 6 speed BHAF, black H2's, 35" BFG MT's, B&W turnover, Juice w/ Attitude, 5" str8 pipe, BD lift pump, spin on filters, traction bars

[CTD MPQ]

Originally Posted by milo12

I think Thuren has had that setup available for years.

Thuren Fabrication- Crossover steering kits

Time to get out the checkbook.

Yeah, but no offense HIEM/ROD ends suck for a street car/truck. Also, they aren't that strong. Tie rods are WAAAAY better for an everyday vehicle. Granted they are look hi-tech but as soon as they wear they are junk. No in-between. With traditional tie rods you can feel them wear out. which gives you an idea of safety. Most of these small aftermarket guys use hiem/rod ends because they are available and easily adaptable. JMHO.

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2003 CTD, aFe SiS Air Intake, BladerRunner, aFe MachFORCE Exhaust. Sacked chips, leveling kit up front and Bilsteins all around. Nittos on black power-coated OE wheels.

[slagburn]

From the website...

KNUCKLES/PITMAN MUST BE DRILLED TO 3/4" HOLES. STOCK STEERING WILL NOT FIT AFTER!

I've been told that using straight bolts / rod ends in single sheer over tapered rod ends on a street application is asking for quicker wear and ovaling of holes, it makes sense when I think about it but I don't design and build suspension systems for a living so I know nothing.

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07.5, 6.7, Auto, QC, 4x4, Lots of gauges - ISSPRO (Pyro, Boost, Trans Temp) PriCol Optix (Fuel Pressure Lift/Rail) AutoMeter (Oil Pressure) - Dynatrac Free-Spin Hub Conversion Kit - RETRAX bed cover - homebrew shaved bluetec badge - plugged up EGR - Baldwin BF1212 water separator and CAT 1R0750 fuel filter - MSD Dashhawk - Baldwin B164 Bypass Filter

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Last edited by slagburn : 08-06-2008 at 05:13 PM.

[Hot Stuff]

But that's from the Thuren website. We're mostly concerned with the Dodge stuff.

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Adam- '03 Black 2500 QC LB 4x4, H.O. 6 speed BHAF, black H2's, 35" BFG MT's, B&W turnover, Juice w/ Attitude, 5" str8 pipe, BD lift pump, spin on filters, traction bars

[MuscleHead]

Yep same exact steering setup as i have. Whats so bad about this setup? This is my third dodge and i have never had issues with the steering setup and all have been lifted except my factory stablizer had a single bolt ran through the rod where as the one you have pictured uses a u bolt. I have aftermarket stabilizers on it now though.

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07 2500 TRX4 Offroad, 6.7L Cummins, 5" Pro-Comp Lift, 37" Toyo M/Ts, 18x10 Mickey Thompson Wheels,4:10 gearing,Amp Research Electric Steps,MIA Intake Baffle,Husky Liners front and rear,Bully Dog PMT ,H&S 5" Dpf Delete,K2 EGR Delete

[Hot Stuff]

The newer ones have a True Solid tie rod whereas the older ones all have what they call a "inverted "y" tierod". They are not near as nice as a true solid tierod. 1st gen trucks had a solid tierod from the factory. They started the Inverted Y in '94, and all wranglers, and cherokee's have the inverted y setup also. There isn't anything wrong with the inverted Y setup until you get some wheel travel. As the tires move up and down, the Toe changes all the time. As the suspension cycle up, the front tires toe in, as the front suspension cycles down, the tires toe out. It's really a piss poor design. That's why with ANY lift or alteration in ride height, the alignment needs redone.

This is from a Jeep website, but also applies to the Dodge trucks as they have the same setup.................




One of the scariest problems that occurs on Jeep Cherokees is know as death wobble. Death Wobble is when the front tires start to shake violently. Think of a shopping cart wheel that flutters and having two of them on the front of your Jeep.

Death wobble is very common on lifted Jeeps but can occur on stock vehicle as well. The root cause is the instability of the inverted Y steering linkage on the Jeep.

When every thing is working well, this type of steering and suspension works very well. However, when things go wrong, the shake can be very scary and can potentially damaging.

The axle is located side to side by the track bar. The joint on the frame end is made like a tie rod and is susceptible to damage due to corrosion and over extension. Just a very sight amount of wear in this joint can allow the axle to move side to side and can lead to the death wobble shake.

Another base cause of death wobble is the caster angle. The caster angle changes slightly when the XJ Cherokee is lifted due to the unequal length control arms. This angle can be corrected with shims. Very often death wobble can be eliminated by altering the caster angle. More or less caster than the factory recommended settings may be required for your suspension so you may have to experiment.

Worn or soft control arm bushings can lead to caster angle changes and therefore lead to death wobble. Replacing worn bushings are retrofitting polyurethane bushings can correct your steering angles and sometimes eliminate the death wobble.

Sometimes the source of death wobble can be very elusive. Some cases have been reported where the mount for the track bar has become slightly lose either due to loose bolts or metal fatigue and death wobble occurs. This one can be particularly hard to find as every thing may look fine in a visual inspection of the suspension.

To check the track bar and it mounting points, have an assistant move the steering wheel back and forth while you observe the track bar and its mounting points. Also, by placing a finger on the tire and on the fender flare note any side to side movement of the axle when the wheels are turned. Often you can feel the axle body of the truck move slightly before the wheel starts to turn if there is wear in the track bar or is mounts.

Another possible source of difficulty are the steering box bolts. The bolts that pass through the steering box and secure it to the frame also pass through an aluminum spacer. Often this spacer corrodes and keeps the bolts form turning. Even if they feel tight with a wrench, they may not be holding the box tight to the frame. Also, this area of the frame is highly stressed by off road driving and larger tires and can break. Any looseness in the steering box mounts can contribute to death wobble.

If all else fails in trying to correct a death wobble situation, you can try replacing the steering stabilizer. However, in doing so you are only masking the problem not curing it.

In an emergency situation where you must drive a XJ that is experiencing death wobble there are a few tricks that you can try. The first is to toe out the steering by adjusting the tie rod. This will wear the tires but will also put pressure on the suspension and keep it in place so it does not shake making the Jeep drivable. Reducing the air pressure in the tires to trail levels can also eliminate death wobble although I am not sure why.

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Adam- '03 Black 2500 QC LB 4x4, H.O. 6 speed BHAF, black H2's, 35" BFG MT's, B&W turnover, Juice w/ Attitude, 5" str8 pipe, BD lift pump, spin on filters, traction bars

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Last edited by Hot Stuff : 08-06-2008 at 05:42 PM.

[dieseltech]

HOW TO WARRANTY ONE??Be one of dodges techs like me!! idk work for the dealership or get to know one of the techs at your dealer. make one of the joints loose. say you feel play in the steering? just about anything to make them replace it. AND THE DODGE NEW ONE JUST BOLTS STRAIGHT IN NO DRILLING OUT ANYTHING

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07.5 dodge 2500 6.7l cummins 6sp mp-8 and egr and dpf delete to come

[CTD MPQ]

Originally Posted by slagburn

From the website...



I've been told that using straight bolts / rod ends in single sheer over tapered rod ends on a street application is asking for quicker wear and ovaling of holes, it makes sense when I think about it but I don't design and build suspension systems for a living so I know nothing.

True. That's why tie rods are tapered and not straight. If the nut comes off a taper will hold for a long time. A straight hole is a no-bueno.

K.I.P. Ties rods rule.

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2003 CTD, aFe SiS Air Intake, BladerRunner, aFe MachFORCE Exhaust. Sacked chips, leveling kit up front and Bilsteins all around. Nittos on black power-coated OE wheels.