Forced to order Smarty and Pipe!!!!

[Deezel Guy]

Originally Posted by 238mph

Here is a pic... upper arm finished and coated, lower just roughed in. It will need to come back out for additional boxing (3/16" plate) and coating.

The spring is not fully compressed in the pic, but does have quite a bit of pressure on it.

I am also waiting on std offset rims for the front... Note the front bumper moved forward which makes the overall wheel well larger. That allows me to moved the axle forward and still be centered in the wheel well.

Some may argue that the spring in slightly forward of the spring bucket up top. Yes it is... by about 3-4 degrees.
Yet those same people forget that when the suspension articulates from side to side by 20 degrees (like off-roading)
it works fine...

This truck is a mega dually by the way... so once painted, the front fender flair will go with the rear painted dually fender.
The flares are off a 5500 cab/chassis. Yes, you must drill the fender to install them.

NICE! Sweet looking setup man, you clearly know what you are doing. How long till your project is complete? I'd love to see the stance on that once finished.

Also, when you moved your axle forward, did you not run into any of the other parts i.e. swaybar, tierods, track bar anything? Did you have to mod those too? On mine I could almost swear I'm going to hit them if I move my axle to far forward.

thanks!

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07.5 Dodge 2500 4X4 6.7, Auto, Rollin Smoke Diesel Stage 1, Shibby EGR delete,
Thuren trackbar & stabalizer, 6" lift, 37"MT
H&S XRT

[238mph]

Swaybar needs to be moved forward... everything else clears...that's the limit unless u go more lift, otherwise the trackbar will get into the front of the diff... and of course, longer shocks.

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[Volcom18]

I can't wait to see the finished look of that truck. I wish I was capable of doing that to my truck.

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07.5 |Mineral Gray Metallic| 6.7l, G56, 4X4, 35" Nittos, 18" Rockstars, AFE Stage II CAI, Edge Juice w/Att |Hot Unlock|, MP-8, Quad BoostFooler, Airdog 150, EGR/Cooler Delete, 6" Stack, SBC 3600DD, Isspro Rail/Fuel/Boost - Powered by: HardTimes Diesels

[ken white]

While I keep hearing how cheap the stock control arms are and how they need to be beefed up, they are actually quite good at providing the much needed torsional flex if/when the truck suspension articulates.

Beefing up the stock control arms will require a softer durameter bushing at both ends, which will create earlier bushing failure, or damage could occur to the frame or axle control arm mounts.

Take a look at the Jeep TJ suspension design world and you will see what I mean. Heavy control arms require suspension jounts that can provide for misalignment as the control arms, track-bar, and axle move in their various arcs during articulation.

Just something to think about...

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2008 Quad Cab 3500, 4x4, Long Bed, DRW, G56, 3.73's, Line-X, P3, lots of camper upgrades...

[BOOOST]

Originally Posted by ken white

While I keep hearing how cheap the stock control arms are and how they need to be beefed up, they are actually quite good at providing the much needed torsional flex if/when the truck suspension articulates.

Beefing up the stock control arms will require a softer durameter bushing at both ends, which will create earlier bushing failure, or damage could occur to the frame or axle control arm mounts.

Take a look at the Jeep TJ suspension design world and you will see what I mean. Heavy control arms require suspension jounts that can provide for misalignment as the control arms, track-bar, and axle move in their various arcs during articulation.

Just something to think about...

Agree with most everything you said. However look at skyjacker arms that are included with their lifts for our trucks. Look at the SJ arms that are included with the TJ lifts (basic not RR kits) they both have poly bushings on both ends. For your average guy who doesn't plan on wheeling his truck, he'll never have an issue with the rigid poly bushings. Even wheeling occasionally he wouldn't have probelms, nor woudl someone with an arm that had poly on both ends. Yes if you wheel regularly and use every inch of articulation your rig has to offer, over time you will stress the mounts out and you'll eventually rip them off.
Chances are most folks aren't flexing out there 3/4 and 1 ton trucks regularly though. Especially when its a dually. I highly doubt he'll ever have a problem. He still has rubber bushings that allow some misalignment, so he is still in better shape than all the guys here who are running Fabtech, Skyjacker, Superlift (basic), and some BDS arms which all have poly on both ends and are a totally rigid arm.

I understand what your getting at though, I had to weld an UCA mount back on a TJ 44 last night, after 11 years of abuse with old school Tera flex arms it just tore clean off. Poly bushings blow.

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08 6.7L MEGA 2500 SLT 4X4 68RFE l DIPRICOL OPTIX BOOST/PYRO/TRANS l KORE CHASE l FOX 2.0 RR l CARLI LINKS l CARLI RESEVOIR MOUNTS l TINTED l TS MP-8 l 5" TBE l EGR DELETE l TEKONSHA P3 l LINE-X l PE JACKRABBIT l AFE MEGA CANNON l SMARTY S67PoD l 285 TOYO MT l

[ken white]

Yeah, I was just trying to make the point that the stock CA's are really not that inferior and are actually designed quite well.

I agree, my dually only gets to see mild off-road and dirt roads when hauling the camper and/or jeep, so I am quite happy to keep this suspension stock.

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2008 Quad Cab 3500, 4x4, Long Bed, DRW, G56, 3.73's, Line-X, P3, lots of camper upgrades...

[rbmedic75]

Originally Posted by Alabama Mud Machine

Hey Buck....Anymore cool ideas for the 8" lift?

Also Buck...On your control arms, since your CNC'ing them out, why not make cut-out flames where the squares are? that would be sweet!

Havent had much time to play with the lifts a whole lot yet but when its time LOOK OUT

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08 quad SB 6 stick time to:SMARTY 14ME, BOD Intake and EWG. BOD @ http://www.rollinsmokediesel.com/
Parts on the shelf waiting--- Isspro EV2, 6" twin Aussie's, Banks Intercooler, Toyo OC MT 37 13.50 R 17, BOD 90 HP injector Nozzles

[SkinInc69]

Originally Posted by rbmedic75

Havent had much time to play with the lifts a whole lot yet but when its time LOOK OUT

Chris and I can't wait for our BOD CA's!!!

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2007.5, 6.7L 2500 4x4 LARAMIE 68RFE- H&S Performance BLACK MAXX, Industrial Injection Stage 2 CP3, FASS 150/150, H&S 5" TBE straight piped, Snow Performance water methanol injection, Capped fuel rail, EGR & Cooler delete, AFE Mega Cannon, Black Op's Diesel intake horn, 3.5" Shibby boost tube, DiPricol Gauges, 3" BDS lift, Bushwacker flares, 20x12 iON-Forged Terminators, 33x12.5 Nitto Mud Grapplers, RDX Billet Grill, Line X, 20% Tint w/ 9" brow, 10,000K HID Hi/Low, Fogs. www.hsperformance.com

[H&S TECH]

I used to do TONS of suspension lifts on dodges. We would cut the passenger upper control arm bolt head off and slide out the other side. Tough bolts to cut, ruins a sawzall blade, but easier than removing the exhaust.

I have extended the control arms on a couple of trucks. Works great, and i think looks even better. (the factory suspension geometry sits the axle a slight bit back of center, especially if lifted or leveled.) I think you may have gone a bit too far, but with the bumper pushed forward it may work fine for you.

Only issue I ran into was the Passenger side sway bar axle mount will likely hit where the drag link comes down to connect to the steering crossbar. Especially under full suspension droop, these two parts will want to hit. This also depends on how much of a pitman arm drop you have, and how long your shocks are.
My solution was to cut the entire sway bar axle mount off and move it up a little further.

This truck had the axle about 1.5" forward of factory location.

Attached Images

dodge 2.jpg (54.8 KB, 58 views)

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Last edited by H&S TECH : 11-04-2009 at 12:10 PM.

[238mph]

Originally Posted by ken white

While I keep hearing how cheap the stock control arms are and how they need to be beefed up, they are actually quite good at providing the much needed torsional flex if/when the truck suspension articulates.

Beefing up the stock control arms will require a softer durameter bushing at both ends, which will create earlier bushing failure, or damage could occur to the frame or axle control arm mounts.

Take a look at the Jeep TJ suspension design world and you will see what I mean. Heavy control arms require suspension jounts that can provide for misalignment as the control arms, track-bar, and axle move in their various arcs during articulation.

Just something to think about...

I agree 100% If this were a 4x4 that was going off-road and doing some more severe adventures, I would do that. But it's my 4x4 dually that seldom see severe articulation, it mainly pulls my trailer and rockcrawler to off-road events... the 4x4 part simply keeps me from getting stuck in the sand.

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www.jd3.com Just build it!

[238mph]

H&S yes, I'm moving the sway bar forward...

Going back to you guys about the bushings... that's the other thing that is really impossible for me to put into my motion cad. or at least I don't know how to do that.

It doesn't take into consideration the flex of the bushing, so as I put a part in motion, it stops the program as soon as the part trys to flex side to side... I'll have to call support one day and learn how to do that....

I do have an update as I hate to give anyone BAD OR WRONG info... screw the ego stuff, if I make a mistake I'll let everyone know... disinformation really sucks.

So, I was checking the caster on the axle with the longer arms in... and I can reach factory caster with the arms lengths I provided... but I CANNOT reach zero caster that some guys run once u go to really big tires.

So, I suggest that I revise the lengths for those that want less caster than stock.

Upper arm 3.5" over stock
Lower arm 2.75" over stock (rather then 3.25")

I wish I had taken the caster issue more seriously... now I may disassemble and shorten the lowers to 2.75" over stock. I feel I made a mistake and I want everyone to know the revised measurements.

I'm use to running really large tires, 49-54" and we go to nearly zero caster for them... I know this truck will never go there... but still, I like to be able to adjust to almost zero caster... sorry for being so anal, it's the engineer coming out...

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Last edited by 238mph : 11-04-2009 at 09:07 PM.

[238mph]

PS... H&S just saw your pic... refreshing to see a wheel centered in the wheel well!!!

See, I'm not the only person here that thinks that's the way it should be.

Also, I hate that my front diff and axles are spinning all the time...
Now if we could just get Dodge to center the wheel and add locking hubs I'd be real happy!

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www.jd3.com Just build it!