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Crankcase Vent Filter - Removal/Bypass?

87K views 87 replies 41 participants last post by  Motorolanut  
#1 ·
Anyone done it yet? I changed mine 3k miles ago, and it's full again. I'm getting the Perform Service, along with a non-illuminated CEL code. I checked the back of the filter housing, and I can see oil blown out. So it's definitely getting a lot of pressure...

By the looks of this picture/illustration, is there any reason why the filter needs to be installed?

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I already have the tube that attaches to the air-inlet tube seperated/filtered with a breather filter. Although it was positive pressure anyway.

Here's some more pictures...the filter doesn't really seem to be anything besides a media the air passes through.

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Why not just remove the filter? Can anyone see a reason it wouldn't work?
 
#2 ·
Looks like the sensor will also read if the filter is missing:

"The Crankcase Pressure (CP) Sensor (5) is mounted on the valve cover (4). The CP sensor monitors crankcase pressure that builds up as the result of combustion gas blow-by. The Engine Control Module (ECM) uses data from the CP sensor to determine the condition of the crankcase breather (ventilation) filter. The ECM can also determine if a crankcase breather (ventilation) filter is present. "
 
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#4 ·
I don't think you'd need to go there...

They're just rubber vent lines feeding into the filter. I just don't know enough to know if it's always going to be positive pressure, or if the check valves on the lower lines may be enough.

If it's always positive pressure, I can't see any negatives in deleting it. The sensor would need fooled, but I'm sure that could either be done with resistors, or through code (Smarty/XRT).

The damned thing is over $100 too, so I'm not changing it every 3k miles.
 
#5 ·
I would be intrested in this ..... I thought that Shibby had done that on his truck ... I could be wrong but I thougt I recalled something about that
 
#9 ·
Can somebody show me a picture of where the pressure sensor is located? This does look like something that could fairly easily be done. I'd just need to get a hold of a truck to look at for a few days.
 
#13 ·
Yeah that's it. If you need anything let me know.

I've gotten that code with the PMT set to extreme - back in the day.

Now that I'm running the Smarty #9 I'm also getting it.

If I remember right I always had some oil leaking out the back side past the rubber gasket even without a programmer. But the PMT was the first time I got the code and now the Smarty does it too.

But I know others have this too so I figured it was caused by the programmers not that something was wrong. Anyone else?
 
#12 ·
As long as you are certain the sensor is good this could cause some alarm. On the diesels we work on, excessive CCP could be the result of a few different things. Mainly blowby, usually we notice on our engines it occurs at or around 70-90% load on an engine that wasn't properly started and allowed time to warm up. You could take one of those pressure tubes and test what you are getting with a magnahelic gauge. Its a positive pressure meassured in (in" of water or in" of mercury) I'm sure you are aware that excessive pressures can result in a crankcase explosion and say goodbye to your engine after that. I've also heard of heavy cavitation or foaming of the oil to cauae this. The last thing you could check would be your oil cap. This also acts as a vent and maybe clocged. With all the emissions stuff on these engines, soot accumilation has made it in to places on these engines that never have been noticed before on a diesel. If you are overly concerned, have a leak down test performed on the engine. Knowing you CCP is actually far more important than most realize and the sensor should not be removed. I've even contemplated trying to add a gauge to my pod setup just for that. Best of luck:thumbsup:
 
#14 ·
I had a 78 Ford that me and a high school buddy added his nitrous kit to my engine. I did put different pistons in it but the rings must have been poo poo cause after a while I could blow the dipstick out when I hit the Nitrous. Funny when I think back. Probably not the case here though.:lol4:
 
#15 ·
On the 5.9s wasn't it just vented to the atmosphere?

I trigger the message when I stomp on it. I may be at the lower end of the rpm range when it does it (manual) but I'm not sure.

I do know that filter was saturated which is causing my CCP to get higher and trigger the message.
 
#16 ·
I wonder if it would be worthwhile to just periodically take the CCF off and spray some carb cleaner thru it. I used to do that for PCV filters all the time.
I was thinking doing it every other oil change or so.:confused013:
 
#18 ·
It was a white mesh type. Can't remember exacty.

The buildup of CCP would that have anything to do with the drive pressure on the turbo? Just wonderng with all the head gasket threads.
 
#19 ·
The filters purpose is to keep oil out of the intake, correct? I'm at work right now, so I can't go look at my truck, but I think if you remove the filter you'll be coating some part of the intake with oil, will it be pre or post intercooler?

If you remove the filter you may want to run a breather tube like the 2nd gens trucks did.
 
#20 ·
The filters purpose is to keep oil out of the intake, correct? I'm at work right now, so I can't go look at my truck, but I think if you remove the filter you'll be coating some part of the intake with oil, will it be pre or post intercooler?

If you remove the filter you may want to run a breather tube like the 2nd gens trucks did.
I already have a breather on that part of it. I plugged the hole in the intake or you'd be right.
 
#22 ·
exactly what ram07saw said... Most of the time you start to see allot of crank case blow by, there is trouble to be found some where causing the problem and most of the time it will take the motor out!! i have seen several 5.9s this way... Also i have never had this code other then the time my number one piston blew out on me! But there is allot more to look at other then trying to keep code from coming on and cleaning the filter cause whatever is causing it, its not good mostly.. And i drive my truck damn hard all the time and never have that code problem pop up... just FYI
 
#24 ·
i read somewhere on here that, don't remember where but that the air will move past the sensor so fast that is doesn't detect any pressure i guess and throw a code, just an idea don't know if this helps or not.
 
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#27 ·
:party018: Shibby to the rescue again I like were your heading with this Would you get any oil that would mist all the underside :confused013: if not I would say that sounds like money to me :yourock:
 
#28 ·
The crank case vent dumps into the breather pre turbo that means it dumps into a vacum if you re enginer it to have a good ole fashion puke tube like all 5.9s had you would be dumping into atmospheric pressure(14.7psi at sea level) so you would actualy have more cranckcase pressure. All diesels in the us ran hundreds of thuosands of miles like that just fine. and likeshibby siad you would be keeping ccg out of your turbo,intercooler,intake and cumbustion chambers. sounds good to me! just unhook gut the filter and see if you get a code.
 
#40 ·
That makes sense, and is probably why I'm seeing my filter fill up quicker.

If I get some free time this week I'll see what I can come up with.
 
#29 ·
Perform Service

I have been getting the perform service on the OVHD. I checked the CCF and it is not bad at all. How do you get the OVHD to reset? I have tried to reset it with no luck! If I decide to reroute the CCV tube, what size pipe plug do I need? it lookas like a 3/4"???
 
#30 ·
I have been getting the perform service on the OVHD. I checked the CCF and it is not bad at all. How do you get the OVHD to reset? I have tried to reset it with no luck! If I decide to reroute the CCV tube, what size pipe plug do I need? it lookas like a 3/4"???
If you've been clearing the OHD with the procedure then You may be getting the mesage due to some other issue. Seems like DPF delete details cause that message.
ARe you clearing codes, using a PS Sim and what Sim are you using?
 
#34 ·
I am interested in doing this also.
 
#37 ·
I am going to remove the filter and run heater hose down to the bottom of the truck. Anyone have any suggestions on what to use to plug the turbo inlet?

I would think running the filter without the negative pressure from the turbo is creating a lot of back-pressure? This is why I am removing it.
 
#38 ·
Is it possible that someone could do a write up like the EGR write up for us visual types :thumbsup:
 
#44 ·
I remember seeing somewheres that it was essential to the operation of the filter (Which no one seems to be mentioning, is seperation of oil and fuel) to have the exhaust going into the negative pressure of the intake, pre-turbo.
 
#47 ·
I don't know what to think. There is the Crankcase Differential Regulator (CDR) in the diagram. So in order for it to open, you'd need a higher crankcase pressure in order to open this regulator to atmosphere as opposed to pre-turbo. Also stands to reason that the lower the pressure of the vent line, the more effective the filter assembly in flashing off diesel fuel out of the oil.:confused013:
 
#48 ·
Looking at the diagram/pictures more, I am thinking we would need to leave the filter in place (or come up with a plug) to close off the opening to the sump. (Blue O-ring)

I've not taken this piece off, but by the explaination, it's a drain for the oil to run back into the block after the filter has allowed the blow-by to settle out.

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But to re-route the tubes (4,5,6) down past the engine and open to the atmosphere.

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I am guessing the opening in bottom housing (blue o-ring) would also act as a vent correct? If so, the line out to the left could also be routed out to atmosphere and bypass the airbox.

I've not had it apart that far, so I'm just speculating.